Rob

Was the dash plastic busted up or loose in yours? I drove one once and it was in some kind of rough shape. Like driven without any maintenance until it wouldn't get through an inspection. It had a 6-71 and nine speed if I remember correctly. Rob

I'd go ahead and drink another one for good measure. If you can still see straight, there is room for more. Rob

If the batteries have went near completely flat (discharged), you will probably need to repolarize the fields in the generator to set up the initial magnetic field to start it again. With the engine running about 1000rpm touch the "F" terminal on either the voltage regulator, or terminal on the generator itself with a wire from the positive battery terminal for just a second. It may just start to charging. Rob

The cab mount rubber insolators are available new through Watt's and Barry can help you out. The durometer hardness of the rubber you have used will probably be insufficient in long term service; you did a good job for the short term. Those insulators take a beating. Rob

Do you turn signals work normally as in left and right? I mean not using the 4 ways? If you have a problem with the turn signals also, look for a grounding problem. If the turn signals work normally and the 4 ways do not, look for a flasher being bad as most vehicles do not share the same unit. Rob

The bolts are encased, or moulded within the lamp housing itself. They are actually square headed. If they are spinning there really is little you can do except break the housing off of the truck, (use a hacksaw to weaken the housing) then grab the bolt heads with vice grip pliers and spin the nuts off the threads. The lamps themselves are common and can be had from Grote, Truck-Lite, etc. Rob

Today I was rearranging trucks in the shop for the winter's nap and had the A-40 out in the yard awaiting to pull onto the highway in front. A younger man driving a Peterbilt was pointing with one hand and a "thumbs up" with the other as he went past. Also wearing a big smile. Sure surprised me. Rob

There is enough stud remaining that a stud remover would have extracted it once the wheel was removed quite effortlessly. Rob

Thanks to you guys this transmission again shifts like a new one. I replaced the "Aeroquip" style hoses with DOT plastic brake line. I also replaced the complete air filter assembly with a reman unit due to the old one having a lot of oil present. I think the old air compressor must have really pumped a lot of oil and this reman unit does not. The system has enough it will prolly never rust!! The discharge line from the compressor and inlet to the wet tank are clean so I assume the old compressor caused this. A quick road test yeilds quick and precise shifting in both the up, and downshift modes with no more grinding. Thanks again, Rob

Another of my prevalent and miserable failures in life......... Diets never work for me. Rob

Now let's be fair and explain to those that weren't there: 1: It was 96 degrees with the sun setting low in the sky and humidity matching. 2: We had been on the road for most of 17 hours with no air conditioning in the "Trusty, Yet Crusty, Dodge". 3: I hadn't had a shower or bath in three days prior due to still healing from "Momma" taking both the "boys" off with a single swing. 4: The antiseptic paste was sticking to my legs, and turning green, (at least on the edges) although was still greasy feeling. 5: We had stopped for dinner at "Taco Delight" two hours prior and I was feeling like I was gonna pop. 6: I didn't smell nothing. It's all in your mind. Rob

And the same to you and yours!! Do you think there is a chance Santa would leave me a pair of big "hairy ones" under the tree?? That'd certainly change "Momma's" attitude!! Rob

Hi James and thanks. I have a coil of DOT plastic brake line and the fittings so I'll go that way and be done with it. Going to the parts store to pester them folks again and will pick up a service kit for the filter also. I'm plating this one just after the first of the year and it seems to be ready. Everything seems to work with this transmission problem being the last mechanical stumble. Still have to address new cables for the heater box, and blower motor assemblies, but they are small parts just worn out. Rob

I've seen that one also. I'll work with the one here, it wasn't quite so "polite". Rob

Think I found the problem. The "Aeroquip" style line that feeds the overdrive piston has a split in the side against the transmission case. Of course it only leaks when the splitter is selected forward and I've always had the engine running when actuating it so couldn't hear the leak. Found it with shop air supplying the truck, and shifting it with the engine shut down. Thanks for the help. I'm going to order a new line set tomorrow morning. Anything else anyone else knows about that should be serviced before putting the truck back in service? Rob

Guys thanks for the replies. The tag on the bottom of the trans identifies an RTO-12513 and the trans shifted fine on my first trip out. It will bust 80mph when working correctly. The red line from the air valve on the side to the shift knob broke and this was the first time I'd had trouble as I couldn't use the splitter. I then purchase a new lineset replaceing each line one at a time. I didn't drive the truck again for a couple of weeks which brings me to today. I will look at the valve James suggests. I do have a duplicate trans on the shop floor so I will do some studying before taking anything apart. I did not know there was a air filter involved. Is it normal to be able to shift the splitter with the transmission in gear and it mechanically shift? I though this would need to pass through neutral as the low/high range selector does? What I can't really reason out is why this thing starts to grinding as soon as the splitter is flipped forward. Up to the point of trying to go from the top of 8th, or 9th gear, (lower right position of the pattern) and preselecting the splitter, it immediately starts this grinding before physically moving the shifter handle. If I flip the splitter back to the rear on the shift handle, the grinding continues. The only way I've found to make it stop is to stop the truck, and start out again. Thanks, Rob

Any amount greater than 50% is good. You have much more than needed and as long as proper toe adjust can be made, all is fine. Rob

That is exactly what I used and did with my "former" tool. I had it until loaning it out without return. Rob

I've used them in the past without problems also. Nice folks. How much "thread engagement" did you wind up with on the tie rod ends? At least 50% I hope for safety. I've seen generic center links used and barely yielded enough thread engagement to do the job. Rob

I have to get my camera replaced again as it fell from my chest pocket while I was standing on the truck's frame. Needless to say, it doesn't work any longer. It takes a conscience decision to take photos as I've done this type of work for so many years, it's basically routine in nature. I'll grab some photos as progress moves forward. With no customers' cars scheduled through the first of the year, I may be able to get a little done....... Rob

I only wish I knew what I was doing about 2/3rds of the time. Rob

My RTO-12513 will not go into the high range, (splitter) but starts to grinding upon passing through neutral on the upshift. Once this grinding starts I have to stop the truck to have any transmission gearing. I can't get it to shift either up, or down when this grinding is going on and flipping the splitter does nothing. At a dead stop I can, (in neutral) actuate the range valve hearing a definitive clunk as the range shifts. This also works perfect when driving. When in the high range position, I can flip the splitter button with my thumb and another difinitive sounding clunk is heard. I assume this is normal. However as mentioned, this starts a grinding that does not cease until the truck is stopped, and the range selector is selected back to low range. I've backed up with the range selector in high, and the splitter in low, and with the splitter in high. Although I need to be very ginger with both the throttle and clutch to get the truck to move due to such high gearing, there does appear to be a difference, sometimes. I've been very easy on things as I don't know much about these air shift transmissions and valving. Certainly don't want to hurt anything. The trans drives and shifts fine through the low and high ranges but I've not been able to get the splitter to work on the road since changing the lineset a couple weeks ago. I know the lines are correctly routed as they were changed one at a time. Thanks, Rob

Hi Glenn and thanks. I can't say I remembered the "O" ring on the plugs. It has been years since I had one apart and time does take it's toll on the memory banks........ Rob

I couldn't make the link work and couldn't delete the post. Rob

If you install a hydraulic thumb you'll never have anything but. They work well. I've seen them operated both by lever, and button on the floor with the button being more common around here in the demolition business. Rob