Rob

Thanks for thinking of me on this one. I do like it also but have never had a Cummins engine so have no opinion. I'd prolly want to change the tanks as I like the look of round in both steel and aluminum as opposed to the square style. I too like fresh and new but am very fond of old style which is "classic" in many ways. Rob

And I'm not gonna tell you that I wouldn't like to have it neither. Would look fine sitting here rather than there. Rob

Sure is a rugged looking thing. I do like the model 70, or 80 Tulsa winch but the auxilary transmission with the power tower should could get some use around here. My B62SX had an EN-464 engine which is difficult to obtain parts for. It would be best to swap in a diesel for this unit. Being in Texas, it doesn't look rotted out. I'd be in a world of hurt if I brought that one home. Thanks, Rob

Looks like someone discovered how difficult or expensive it is to acquire original replacements........ Rob

Yup. Slid the trusty, yet crusty Dodge on the ice into a pole while making a turn this evening. Funny thing is that I started the turn without issue and midway through the truck decided to push straight ahead. The weather was a mixture of sleet, and snow and came on really quick. I was coming back from getting a stranded car back to the shop. I think this will be the fourth hood panel, bumper and parts, and grille on the truck. This is the only time a deer hasn't been involved. Oh well, I hate fixing things out of my pocket. Rob

Did Mack get away from using an SAE #1 housing predominantly? Rob

Hi Trent, it was easier to just remove the tank from it's mounts and take it apart on the floor. The tank was behind a splash gaurd and is only about 6" in diameter, and maybe 12" in length. It has the compressor discharge line into the front, a "Tee" fitting from the top feeding the split dry tank on both sides, and a drain valve. This thing was loaded with water meaning probably a quart. It probably hadn't been drained in a good long time. Rob

Been getting real tired of soapy water in a spray bottle spraying everything with an air line, tightening fittings when bubbles are revealed and still having an air leak. This R612 has hoses, valves, regulators etc. going every which a way. Although I'd never seen it before, there is a small wet tank buried in the frame rail on the rt. side just under the 5th wheel that is covered by a deck plate. This wet tank has a check valve in the front of it, and the two compartment dry tank has check valves in each end. All three are leaking and need rebuilt/replaced. I took the one apart on the wet tank and the seat is nowhere near smooth but rather coarse and rippled. These are all heavy brass pieces and I hope rebuild kits are available. They are very clean inside with no carbon tracking but the air compressor is a reman unit. I suppose the old compressor was pumping oil before being replaced and may have been the root evil to this. I found this by tapping a shop air "Tee" into the dry tank and with the inlet air lines removed, both valves leaked pressure from the tank. I couldn't find this with the lines connected but knew the leakage was through the compressor head as I could hear it escaping. Another lesson learned I suppose. Rob

That was my understanding also. Rob

NAPA, or Carquest catalogs have the listings. They are the same as a FA-505 steer axle if original. Don't bother with Autozone, Advance Auto Parts, or the like of the retail national chains geared toward the over the counter sale. This is not their line of business. Any heavy truck parts supplier will be able to look them up as the 517 axle is just like the 505 with a little more positive SAI built into it. Rob

Yup. Real busy this time of year. Rob

Damned nice looking truck. I like the choice of spokes on the steer as it makes it look more business than flash. Rob

We played a baseball game in Brownwood, TX one time in 1978. I called the home plate umpire an "idiot" on a strike call and had to sit the balance of the game on the bench. Then the Jeff-Moore Lions kicked their asses 13-1. Rob

Naw, I've been doing serious things like having my supervisor removed from his position, (no shit here). Rob

I've done that on cars several time through the years but typically I remove the cotter pin, unscrew the retaining nut several threads on the tapered stud, then hit the side of the spindle boss with a four pound sledge hammer smartly. They usually pop free with the first smack. Sometimes a second is required but nothing gets damaged. If you're under the truck, don't take the nut all the way off cause if that swinging SOB hits you when it comes loose it can hurt!! The nut will allow you to not damage threads but also keeps the rod end from falling free. Of course if you are replacing the rod ends, the threads don't much matter. Rob

Some come loose easily, some not so easy. Citing that your centerlink is bent I would remove both tie rod ends from their mountings at the same time and place the assembly in a bench vise to remove the rod ends. You may need a touch of heat if you cannot get them to budge any other way. When putting the assembly back together use plenty of oil on the threads. I'm assuming you know how to break the tie rod ends loose from the steering spindles? Rob

Be sure to count the number of turns it takes to remove each tie rod end as to allow the adjustments to be close when the new parts are reinstalled. I've straightened centerlinks with a hydraulic press. The tie rod end on the left side of the truck will have left hand threads on the rod ends and the right side will have right hand threads. This allows you to rotate the centerlink to adjust the toe in/out to specifications. Rob

If you are referring to the long tube that connects the left tie rod end to the right tie rod end, this part is called the center link. It is supposed to be straight on the lightweight axles. The heavier rated steer axles use a formed with a drop center type center link. Remove your tie rod ends and take to the parts store with you. Most parts stores won't have an application guide for your truck but they can measure the existing ends to find replacements. There are exceptions to this however. The length from thread start to centerline of taper stud, length of taper stud, thread count, are all important to ensure you get the correct part(s). There really aren't that many different ones used so the process is quite easy with an experienced parts person. Rob

Depends. That axle was offered with both internal threaded, and external threaded tie rod ends. If you have the internal threaded type that screw onto the external center link threads, you may want to purchase extra lube cause your gonna need it for the ensuing pain of the purchase. If they are external threaded type, you can purchase them for about $40.00 each. Obtaining the female threaded type is getting a bit tough also. Rob

Hi Ellis, most B series brake lamp switches I've seen are on the left side of the truck just under the rear of the cab, or barely under it. The ones I've seen are inside of the frame rail. This of course is for a left hand drive truck and I don't know about right hand driven types but assume near the same. Rob

It all starts someplace. Rob

I've never run an excavator myself but my first backhoe, (JD 510C) had an electric clam bucket on the front and I didn't care for it as much as my next tractor, (780ck Case) with a manual lever for the clam. An operator could actually "feel" the pressure applied to what was being picked up. The JD tractor was either tight, or loose with clamping. I could clamp and carry a cinder block with the Case. Of course it took some practice to not explode it. Rob

Yes to the wire on the alternator and the indicator lamp is not needed for operation. It is sometimes incorporated to let you know the ignition switch is supplying voltage to the fields. I wired mine direct with a 3 ampere fuse in series so to allow protection if a field winding shorts. It will blow the fuse and stop voltage application to the alternator preventing a possibly burnt up part, or truck. Rob

I know how half assed this sounds but you can make that gasket/seal from neoprene rubber sheet and automotive vinyl top contact adhesive to glue the lapped ends together. For extra strength you could order a small sheet of neoprene impregnated cloth for the same purpose and it will be much stonger. Rob

Yes, I'm up to date and current. This really is a minor system I'm involved with. This incident is too small to really involve any outside entities but the possibility exists. There was a brisk crosswind nearing 40knots gusting at the time of the incident. I'm certain he was blown off of runway centerline during glidepath and was not cognizant, or able to recover and pull up before contacting the ground. We don't usually get involved with incidents concerning aircraft but I'll see the report in final form. Rob