Rob

But I like your answer better. I get so confused by facts, (at least in my mind's eye). Rob

The Mack sure looks nice performing as it should. I guess with that Pete you know as they say, "beauty is in the eye of the beholder". I did notice however it was not smoking so I assume it's not running; Again?????? LOL. Save me a spot in that can as I'll send along something to forward also. Rob

Not as built originally. The 685 series denoted a 237 Mack engine where the 686 designation called out a 285, (later 300hp) tip turbin charge air cooled engine. This held true through the 1970's. Rob

Here's one: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1988-Mack-RW713-Day-Cab-Log-Truck-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem4aa6670a90QQitemZ320619350672QQptZCommercialQ5fTrucks Rob

Here ya go. Rob http://philadelphia.craigslist.org/pts/2064342314.html

In my case one just needs to keep fuel in the tank(s). Starving for fuel is simply running out. Rob

Actually, when I was manipulating trucks around for winter parking spots in the shop, the R795 started to stumble but I shut it off quickly. The tank is once again out of fuel but the engine didn't starve out, (this time). I was already backed into the stall it will reside in. Gotta love it. Rob

I've used Hagar's also for a CAC repair after a deer hit in Columbia. Nice people and the guy stayed late without extra charge to get me back on the road. Threw the deer in the trunk of a wrecked car and brought him home frozen. Rob

Had me a great time tonight with the R model. I had the rear torque link rebushed, (to the tune of $186.00 using ATRO bushings and press labor) then reinstalled. Also purchased new bushings for the rear shock absorbers due to the rt. side being beaten out. Adjusted all the brakes for even application, then "robbed" batteries from one of the RL700 trucks cause having this thing ready for a joy ride was stressing my patience. After allowing the truck to come up to operating temperature and ensuring I had adequate legal lighting for the anticipated road trip, out on the hiway I go. Accelerating up to near 55 mph in the top of ninth gear, I flip the red knob on the side of the 13 speed handle and listed to a rapid escape of air into the cab. Pulling the knob back to it's prior position and the air stops. Repeating this again proves I'm not gonna see overdrive in this configuration....... Decided to run the country roads to get a few bumps and shocks sent through the truck as I'd never driven it around the back roads. Damned thing actually is really stable. It has adjustable shocks on the 12,000 steer, and on the front drive axle which are 38,000 rated. I was really surprised it didn't ride like a buckboard. Now you wouldn't want to be driving this way with a hot and open cup of coffee cause you'd prolly drown and scald the "boys" , (I don't have this worry) but the ride was no worse than many empty 1.5 ton farm trucks on the same roads. The brakes now, that's a different story. Don't think I've ever had a truck with brakes that are so effective. You really have to use a "ginger" touch to the pedal or you will lock the tires. Again I'm not used to this truck at all. The tip turbine is a real screamer when on the throttle hard and sounds pretty good. I noticed no cutting out, or misfiring from the engine the whole time out which was about 1/2 hour. There is something in the back like a bracket or some type of sheet metal broken loose from it's mount cause it really clatters and bangs on the rough roads. I'm probably going to need to install new shift forks and/or blocks in the transmission as the shifter handle is sloppy through the gates. The shifter handle travels further to the rt. side of the truck than it should and is not as "crisp" into it's gates as should be. Both of the other 13 speeds I have out of trucks are much tighter, but these parts are all new in them. Overall a very pleasant experience for a first real drive. Probably will get plates and insurance next week and start to use it a bit. I did drop the cracked slider section of glass off at the glass shop today to have duplicated. I have new track the correct size in the shop so basically it will be new when reinstalled. As mentioned earlier the winch handle cannot be used with the sliders I've seen in the aftermarket. Also need to take the doors apart and lube the window mechanisms as they are difficult to operate. Will probably replace the opener operator as it is worn out. Dont' know till it's apart if I'll just install all new track and weatherstrips. Both windshields are cracked but I have everything new on hand. I do think I'll stay with white for this truck with a nicer interior than the beige utility type there now. Need to pop the hood off the truck for some repairs and may spray the truck at the same time. Don't really have a lot of rust to contend with but there is some. May need to put a new roof skin on but won't know till I'm into it. Once back at the shop I shut the engine down and could ascertain an air leakage underneath. Sliding under the truck and following my deaf ears best I could, a hose, (Stratoflex) on the back of the transmission was found to be loose. I tightened the fitting and it ceased leaking but don't know what this line does but it had constant pressure to the upper right piston looking at the rear of the trans. Back inside the cab I dissassembled the closing piece on the bottom of the shifter and discovered the red pressure line to be cracked/broken. I'll order a new line set tomorrow as all the lines are seemingly brittle from age. By sitting in the shop and manipulating the settings and this broken line I could hear the overdrive section engage smartly when selected. Really gonna enjoy getting familiar with this thing. Now to find an acceptable trailer to drag around behind....... Rob

Seen this advertisement on Craigslist for Superliners: http://providence.craigslist.org/cto/2062590008.html Rob

My friends are her friends so you're alright. Just don't mention nothin bout no third chin. Rob

I've had a lot of fun with this one already. Rob

I wish you the best of luck as you tread the dangerous waters of changing a womens mindset. May the force be with you my friend. They tend to take exception to being told to "accept and like" without repercussions of the act. I do have an extra bedroom for trucker's in despair. Rob

They want their very own R700 series truck, and you will submit to their desires, (believe me it is easier, and far less painful). On my 32nd year "tour of duty" and it is definately cheaper to keep her at this point. Since she holds title to the A-40, equalibrium and balance has been restored to the relationship. I am not however willing to "test the waters" with another truck however it would show up........... I feel I've given far too much already....... Rob

Not all women are after money. Maybe she is like "Momma" and "Loves you for what you are", richer, or poorer. The secret is safe with me as I won't tell Polly. Rob

If those chunks are lying on a piece of notebook paper I'd go with pulling the rear drive unit out of the housing for closer evaluation. Grit is normal from gear burnish as they wear, (most noticeable after a rebuild of components) but chunks the size you show are not acceptable. Rob

This is where I was kind of inclined to go. All the newer diesel gensets use chassis mounted battery holders and are subject to engine vibration. I have never had problems with them, (nor have I with top post style) but I have an electrical crimper and die set that will set up to 500MCM cable so this is a viable option. My wreckers all used top post and they needed attention seemingly constantly with triple battery setups. I'm not wanting that again. I always hated those damned GM side post setups. Seen many batteries with the threads pulled from their mountings. Rob

Thanks a bunch. Mine is usable but I'd rather replace it if possible. Rob

Hey there, getting ready to order new starting batteries for the the R612 truck and looking for input of post type preferences. I'm changing the cables also with 2/0 and wondering which type gives better service. I use top post on small gensets, and bolt on with the larger sets but all are encapsulated with a hot wax and never see much variance to operating conditions. Either way the terminal ends on the cables will be soldered to the cables, and sealed with shrink tube. The truck is going to have four 1100CCA Exide batteries as it will see outside duty in winter. Thanks, Rob

Does anybody know who the original vendor for these back glass slider assemblies was? My truck uses a two panel glass with aftermarket replacements I've found using a four panel, aluminum framed type. This replacement type by CR Laurence does not yeild a large enough opening on the left side to operate the winch easily. Thanks, Rob

don't surprise me none as they look huge in photos. Rob

A 24.5" tubeless tire rim will fit spokes originally equipt with 22" rims. I don't know about a 24" tube type rims as I've never owned any, but assume they will also fit the spokes set up for 22/24.5 rims. Rob

You are correct on the first count. To replace a straight 22" tube type tire and rim will require a 24.5" tubeless tire and rim. There are no 22" one piece rims offered for trucks. You are also correct in that Dayton wheels are the spoke type. There are also no american produced 22" tires readily available for sale; all I've seen are either chinese, or india produced and neither are worth their costs as production quality is lacking.Rob

I think she was just "using you". Some women have an underlying motive they don't want you to know about. Rob

As would I. Getting close on one of em, and starting to concentrate on a single truck at a time. Once I get a new slider window for the rear of the R612, I'm going to start to working it. This one has real amenities; Power steering, heat, air conditioning, (real, not 240 A/C), and HEAT!! Plus, it runs very well as is. Hell, even the windshield wipers work right. Rob