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Rob

BMT Benefactor
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Everything posted by Rob

  1. Probably, and like I said earlier; "Another that needs to go". Rob
  2. Ain't no substitute for time in the saddle; the rhythm comes easier than you think. A quad, and a triplex are very easy to drive and shift. I got in the habit of blipping the throttle as I pass the main through the upshift and the aux through the downshift. I tend to mash the throttle up in rpm on the downshifts. To the untrained ear you really can't tell there are two gearsets being changed. I only have one truck with a duplex and it drives different than the others. I'm not completely familiarized yet, but it's not much different, just a little wider in the gear spacing. Rob
  3. You are correct. I could make out the E L 1300 after peeling off the vinyl protective layer to the aluminum rivited tag. No one in the Peoria, IL area had an unloader kit so I'll have it on Tuesday. Got "Momma" chores for the weekend so my truck times are through...... Thanks, Rob
  4. Sounds like you may have a shifting fork problem, or wear in the transmission. With the compound stuck, place the main in low or reverse, and using on and off power via the accelerator pedal, try to work the compound back to neutral. Keep moderate pressure on the stick when you apply, and release pressure on the accelerator but leave the main in low gear so you don't move very fast when you're not paying 100% attention to your driving. Triplex transmissions are a very easy shifting beast and I'm surprised to hear of one stuck. Rob
  5. Here ya go.
  6. Mutual Wheel also said the two were interchangable but this one is rebuilt and seem to pass no oil into the tanks. It just won't unload and keeps making pressure till the safety valve releases. It does have the bulldog on the circle cast into the body. I'll try to get a better look at the tag but is really buried against the frame rail. Thanks, Rob
  7. Yeah, the guy that ownes it hired two of my terminated employees discovering why they were let go in the quality of their work. Rob
  8. Looks like a couple more that don't need to be here. Rob
  9. Don't know if it was you but someone really "ripped" on Tidewater Mack in VA using Craigslist as the medium a few hours ago telling of huge dissatisfied experience with them. What a shame and change from 20 years ago. Always nice to hear of a positive experience from and for a board member. Check this out: http://norfolk.craigslist.org/rnr/2031400987.html Rob
  10. I don't know about the straight pipe thing as I really don't like the "drone" of engines long term. Believe it or not the twin 100 gallon tanks are about 3/4 full of fuel so it'll be awhile before it starves out in the driveway....... Precious dangly things. Hmmmm. Right now I'm about shorter than an ice cold shower yields but Momma don't know nothing about this truck yet!!!!!!! Rob
  11. The A models with a Lanova Diesel had the external radiator cap. The truck is probably an A-50 series. I'm currently trying to purchase one that is a sleeper cab. Rob
  12. Of course congratulations are in order for your "new" arrival and I wish you the best of times with the newfound joy. I find it disturbing a well known vendor catering to the antique truck crowd would sell a vehicle with a single headlamp burning, and no taillamps operational to someone having virtually zero experience with a "big" truck. Shouldn't something seemingly so minor have been addressed prior to the unit being offered for sale? I couldn't, and wouldn't let something off my property that was unsafe to operate unless it was for "parts only", but maybe I'm in the minority. Perhaps there was an arrangement worked out I'm unaware of, or this is part of the purchase price, but there isn't much fun discovering minor things inoperable that should work, (such as basic lighting) as they tend to add up quickly. Now that you have the truck in your possession there is still lots to learn. I'll bet you spend countless hours fiddling with it and your wife will find it annoying when you interrupt conversations to talk about the truck, (personal experience here) but they get over it. One word of caution offered early on, "Hide all sharp utencils". Again this is from personal experience but at any family get together, this is what everybody talks to me about, "old trucks". My wife always moseys over to a conversation and butting in asks, "how many trucks does he have"?, to which she is still uncertain........ I've often wondered how Superdog does it. I hope your wife is as tolerant as mine cause these things can sure take up a lot of time, but with your son's involvement it will be a family project. Again, good luck and have fun!! Rob
  13. I believe that is the name Mutual Wheel in E. Peoria carries in the types mentioned earlier. The urethane bushing kits are blue in color. I've never priced a complete rod as have never needed one. Any ideas on the compressor? Thanks, Rob
  14. Finally having some time to myself after the past few weeks I brought the R612 inside the shop to gain a small evaluation of what it will need to be ready to go. I find the torque rod on the rear rear has the bushings beat out of it on the crossmember and the rod is turned quite a bit on the rear rear housing that uses the tapered stud type mount setup. The front rear torque rod looks fine to my uncalibrated eyeballs but I'll have to get a better look. The frame is plated with 1/2 inch plate behind the 5th wheel, and probably 16 gauge material up front. One cannot look down through the frame rails and see the differentials at all. I also noticed the bushings in the top of the shock absorbers on the front rears have the rubber bushings well worn but I'll probably just install new shocks. I think the truck has a slight lean to the right but I'm not entirely certain as where the truck is parked the floor slopes to the centerline floor drain of the shop. My luck is that I'll be purchasing new springs as I've done so many times before......... The bushings and trunion areas of the rears look sound but I've not had a jack or anything under the truck yet. With the compressor unloader problem I spoke of earlier: I'm suspecting the compressor is a Midland unit as it looks different than any Bendix I've ever seen. The metal tag rivited to the side says "Spanco", or something like that and the model number is: L1800 if memory serves. Does this sound familiar to anyone? I've never been around anything but Bendix Tu-Flow types. Got a close look at the engine and the "puff limiter" is hooked up,but I can't tell if it is functional. The reversing relay is mounted and plumbed into the air supply so I'm assuming it does, or did work when the truck was in service. The torque rise of this engine is phenomenal to me. A full stab of the throttle just after upshifting to third gear renders very strong acceleration with a nice whine to the turbocharger. With the rate of decay to engine rpm on the upshift, it's almost like driving a big car, or pickup truck. A lot faster shifting that say a Cat, or Cummins powered truck, but not as quick as a tri, or quadraplex behind a Mack engine. Any preferences on the torque rod bushings? I've seen the urethane types, the roller types, and the rubber types in both repair kits, and replacements. Also have seen the ones where you weld the new end to your existing rod. While I have the rears off the concrete I'm going to check the S cam bushings and such and rebuild anything discovered to be worn. Also going to install spring brakes on the rear rear axle as I will use the winch for dragging. I don't think the engine rolled over a full round before it started running. Takes about 30 seconds to smooth out well then the exhaust tone is mellow and smooth. I do need to weld the top of the muffler where the exhaust pipe exits the top as it is cracked near fully around the perimeter. The metal is all solid and I think it is due to the mounting arrangment. That metal "flapper" on the exhaust is annoying but keeps the water out as it should. Rob
  15. Sorry, but I can't work with this. Rob
  16. The past two months myself and three others have been working 15-16 hour days taking only the 14th day off due to federal labor laws, to get this new radar on the air. Tonight it went live with final inspections and checkout(s). I'm close to dead after this ordeal. The overtime is nice but so is having a personal life. Wonder if my wife still recognizes me? Think I've lost 30 pounds over this ordeal. Rob
  17. Did you replace only the spring and not the pins, bushings, cushions, shackles, etc? These parts all work and wear together. With a lean as pronounced as the photos show a sag in the frame would be discernable to the naked eye. Sighting the cab also has a lean to the right I would look for a stressed frame. If it is cracked or broken, it must be repaired/replaced or you're headed for expensive trouble. Be certain to look where the crossmembers are attached to the frame for fatigue. Broken crossmembers are a vital clue to look for. Rob
  18. Hi Chuck, which truck are you referencing? I tried to call a couple times in the past with no answer; Is your number the same? Rob
  19. I think it is about four feet cube. Rob
  20. Not much of a struggle for me as she prefers to sleep under the stars leaving more room. Rob
  21. The Overnight branded B42 is the one Dennis Campbell restored in a red with black fender color scheme. It is in the book, "Mack" the first 100 years, in the B model section. These folks purchased it and repainted the truck to where it is now. It was really nice in it's former colors also. I think they just repainted it. Rob
  22. If you could not locate "Lo Lo" effortlessly, but can locate Lo Split, you have a triplex transmission. Could be the cab has been changed and the nameplate left in place. Rob
  23. That rubber bumper is called a "jounce bumper" and does not allow the leaf spring to "arch over" from a positive, to negative arch. You definately need to visit a spring shop soon as mentioned. Rob
  24. Those "M" series boxes shake the shit out of the truck when they run low on fluid. Both of my midliners had them and if the steering gear leaks, the oscillations that are setup in the steering gear are hazardous at best. This doesn't take hitting a bump in the road either. Driving on smooth road one of mine would start to shaking badly about 60mph. A replacement with a rebuilt unit and the problem was gone forever. Rob
  25. It does have a bit more room than the current location I co-habitat with the dog in the back yard. Rob
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