Rob

Well, this truly saddens me. Certainly cheapens the effect of the same gift I'd received. Thought I was special. Rob

And I thought I'd have it by election day. Rob

Last I went by there was a lot of concrete blocks that were at least a ton apeice stacked in front of the south entrance. No bridge neither and it was a loooooong way down there. So strange to see the same scene now 20+ years later. I only went through that tunnel once from the north to the south. It was a real surprise to see how far up you were when exiting as it was totally unexpected. My wife absolutely hated rt. 60 as it made both her, and my daughter sick in her carseat due to the twisting on that road. When we left Norfolk, VA for the last time in a U-Haul truck, I was going the newly completed I-64 through that area and is when I'd seen the now closed tunnel. At the time I thought, "Jesus", that's a long way down there. I actually thought the north entrance would have been retained as it looked as if the south entrance being blocked up was permanent. Surprised to learn they built up a road to it. Rob

The Stewart-Warner tool set I have for removing, and installing the bezels is built solely for this purpose. Picture this: A 1/4" wide flatblade screwdriver bent at about a 80 degree angle from flat. The blade is then ground at about a 1" external radius to where the outer sides of the blade now have no sharp sides and just meet the underside of this blade. Basically looking from the side of the tool you have a crescent shape with a flat bottom. These bezels are very soft and the edge of this tool is pushed under the retention crimp of the bezel. The tool is then "rocked" back and forth to pry open the crimp. The tool is then shifted to the side and the process repeated until you can remove the bezel. The second tool is for rolling and straightening the bezel where it was removed. This is a fashion of two gear driven rollers that you stand the bezel edge into and crank the roller handle. This causes both rollers to squeeze the bezel material and rolls the dimples back out that were incurred from the prying to remove it. This is adjustable for pressure applied to the rollers. The third tool looks like a large socket from the exterior. You simply place the bezel back on the instrument and using a small arbor press, slip the bezel and socket assembly into the press and lightly apply pressure. This socket has three angle ground into it's interior. The first angle starts to fold over the bezel, the second finishes the fold, the third does the crimping. It is important to not apply too much pressure as things can break. As mentioned, the bezels were steel and "flash chromed". This is a very short duration in the electroplating bath due to both cost and to retain ductility of the finished product. Unfortunately, durability suffered and rust is prevelant. The bezels were offered in stainless steel as aftermarket replacements, but never offered as OEM to the best of my knowlege. I don't know how many hundreds of SW instruments I've rebuilt as one of my high school jobs was in an instrument shop. Most times to rebuild a mechanical speedo or tach, the easiest was to just toss the guts and replace complete, but you could still get the stuff new. Now, I wouldn't be so certain. You can still get new bezels from the current owner of the Stewart-Warner name but they are slightly different with a flattened face. Rather than the coming to a dull point, they are flat on the face but still look acceptable. If you were replacing them all, hardly anyone would notice they are not period correct. You can however have your originals rechromed but there would be little to no cost savings. Rob

http://www.foxnews.com/politics/2010/10/16/endangered-house-democrats-campaign-pelosi/ Pelosi!! Rob

I do remember the power plant. There were always people on the banks fishing now that you mention it. Rob

The last photo showing the tunnel entrance about even with the level of the new hiway certainly looks different than when I seen it in mid 1988. They had not built up the road and it was a sheer cliff up to the tunnel entrance which was blocked off, but you could still see it. Rob

I believe that is the correct number. It is a dual filament sealed beam type. Rob

Try these guys too. Hastings will make any piston ring out there. Rob

The weld bead works very well but will be expensive in that application due to the nickel rod. I've done that several times on steel bushings in tractor backhoes. Rob

Get you one of them shifters that you scrape your knuckles on the roof like "Rat Fink" always had. Rob

I had one too that lost the countergear thrust washer and ate the case. I replaced it with a small nine speed direct and it was a world of difference with three wrecks on. Rob

Prolly has a NP208 series transfer case with either 4.10, 4.33, or 4.56 gearing. Most of the 1972-1978 440 engines were great boat anchors although they ran well in stock trim. Grab you a set of "906" factory casting heads, or aftermarket Edlebrock, and watch that engine come alive!! Just be careful with your foot cause the crankshafts were a little weak in those years. Rob

Wonder if he "hates when dat happens"? Rob

Was sent this by a friend. Rob http://thecaucus.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/10/11/soros-i-cant-stop-a-republican-avalanche/?hp

The transverse rod helps to keep the rear axle assemblies centered under the truck. The torque rod(s) help to keep the drive axles from "wrapping" up under the torque of acceleration against the loaded truck. These keep the rears and hence the driveline in a parallelagram, (square) to the frame rails of the truck. Rob

Hi Tom, my name is Rob. You drive, (or make attempt) one of them things???? I hear the engine light in those trucks is to make for easy map reading to the nearest Pete dealer for repairs? I'm also told the newer ones use a talking GPS to tell you how far the next repair shop is, and every two minutes, recite the telephone number!! Ain't technology great? Damn, that truck has got to be frustrating. Rob

One of mine has that same red lamp. It illuminates with the high beams. Rob

That is different. All the females working the secretary of state's office here know nothing other than passenger car plates, don't care about anything other than quitting time, and abnormally stress the floor joists as they walk. No mirrors so nothing gets broken. Rob

As mentioned the fan clutch is on it's way out. There are rebuild kits available and they are not difficult to work on. Rob

Looks like that truck has an aluminum frame. Rob

All of my B61's, (56, 57, 58, 64) have an interior buzzer under the dash. It looks like a relay with an aluminum cover. I can't remember if they have "Delco-Remy" stamped into the cover or not but it certainly seems so. None of the trucks have a low air lamp. Rob

Some nice "brute" trucks there. There are a couple of reasons for installing Mack rears under a Pete: 1: To extend it's agony on earth as in revenge. 2: To lessen the chance of the driver having to return on foot, or a hook, as tow bills are EXPENSIVE! Either way, A mistake in my opinion, as one should let sleeping dogs lye. Rob

You can still purchase rivet blanks and it is not hard to locate a ceramic kiln or furnace to heat them with. If you or a partner can swing an eight pound hammer accurately, it really is no problem to buck them over when hot. You just want to have the correct head profile bucking tool for the outside end that shows to preserve the profil Otherwise, I think I've seen "Huckbolts" with a similar profile that would show on the outside most seen by the eye. Rob

I have that same pump reservoir setup I'm planning to use on one of our B models with Garrison power steering. My daughter will drive that one. Rob