Rob

The engine in your chassis is completely different than the 210 horse engine, but I used to use 17 quarts and two filters with mine. Rob

As you know the CS-200P series of truck uses hydraulic actuated brakes. These will be expensive to work with/on no matter how you slice it. You can however use an aftermarket vendor reline your shoes, rebuild your wheel cylinders, and purchase new brake hardware from a Mack dealer. This is a real bastard system that was expensive to maintain when new. I found both of my CS-300P series of trucks, (full air brakes) to be very reliable, comfortable, and easy on the wallet to operate. My 89 with a 24' steel rollback bed consistently delivered in excess of 10mpg in normal usage. I had the Renault 210hp engine and six speed overdrive transmission. It was a strong pulling truck with a lot of weight on it. Empty it weighed right at 19.400 pounds. Rob

Glad you found resolution. Rob

What size drive chain are you using, 90, 120, 150, 180? Find a local bearing distributor the represents Martin, Browning, Silent, etc. chain manufacturers and they will have what you need. Rob

An E6-350 is at about the limit you want to push as far as design horsepower/torque output criteria. I'd think of having your original turbocharger rebuilt before attempting to "hop that engine up", knowing there are damaged parts. There are resources available through the internet that will help you in your quest but you really need to pay close attention to the compressor maps for a given turbocharger compressor section to acheive the final result you pursue. No sense installing something that performs best about 2350 rpm on an engine that will never run there. I have an E6-350 and like it as is. I don't expect more than it will safely provide, but then again I can't afford to "casually" rebuild an engine. If you try to achieve say 400 horsepower, the engine will be short lived although you could do just that with minor modifications and refinements. It gets expensive to properly "build" a turbocharger, then set fuel delivery rate and nozzle size accordingly to gain maximum performance. The first step would be to get the correct turbocharger proven on paper, then fill that airstream with the proper amount of fuel, (plus about 5% at full throttle to keep EGT's down). However there are limitations the lower reciprocating assembly may not hold up to. Garret/Honeywell used to offer some good books on the subject, but I don't know any longer. Never really messed with increasing the performance of a diesel engine on my own but have worked with several small gasoline powered units with both series, and parallel turbocharging units. Smokey Yunik was one of my childhood heros on the subject. He liked working with small engines and producing tremendous horspower output from such. What you are asking to do is not as simple as "turning a screw" or bolting on additional parts. To use the famous Mack saying: You need a "Balanced Power Package" to obtain satisfactory results. I believe Mack never took this series of engine over the 350hp rating due to knowing they were at the limit, although it can be easily done. No warranty when it breaks however, and that is important on the manufacturing level. If more power and longevity is what you are after, you should evaluate moving to an E7 series of engine to stay with Mack power. Rob

I've seen this before but can't remember if I've posted it. Rob http://www.snopes.com/politics/soapbox/overwhelm.asp

Yup. Purely hypothetical to me. Rob

Oh man. Turnips. Turnips give "Momma" gas; and I really hate when "Momma" has gas!!!! Rob

Yes, it was. I was looking for just the perfect gift for her this time around since last year I got her a nice Stihl brand edge trimmer for the yard work. So tonight I picked her up a nice Stihl commercial leaf blower to go with the trimmer. She promptly went to the kitchen drawer, and extracted her favorite punishment tool; "The" butcher knife!! And I thought I'd done right!! Actually when I showed her how to start it, she turned the appliance on me, squeezed the trigger and gave me a blow job at 185 mph!!!!! Man that sucker really moves some air I'm tellin ya!! This all started when I bought a Stihl chain saw last year for myself and their products seem to always start with little fanfare. She really likes to work in the yard and flower garden and this "gift" will be enjoyed as the leaves always get raked from the flower beds during the fall, as the grass is swept from the sidewalk and driveway after cutting. Momma with a new power tool. I AM scared. Rob

This guy's got the ticket. Might have to run pretty hard to make up for lost tonnage however. Rob http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1974-R-Mack-Dump-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3a5e5aa2f5QQitemZ250691101429QQptZOtherQ5fVehiclesQ5fEverythingQ5fElse

Well I'm no certified welder of any type but have welded many cast sections of transmissions, axle housings, backing plates, spring perches, exhaust manifolds, etc back together through the years. It all has to do with the preparation of the base material and proper pre, and post heating of the weld zone(s). for a strong, dependable weldment. I've seen numerous weldment failures due to the end user trying to "pretty up" the area and removing some of the bead buildup. This should be left alone. While I can't answer for the DOT interaction it would seem to me that a weldment to repair a crack correctly would be frowned upon a lot less than an obvious leaker. Rob

Hi Doug, this is kind of a strange phenomenom as the last mailing of the three issues of the magazine arrived prior to the starting of this thread with no explanation of any type as to the origin, or purpose of the mailing(s). I last renewed my subscription a year ago in January, so it really is quite overdue on an annual basis. I have difficulty understanding after the subject lies dormant for nearly 18 months, there is renewed interest "out of the blue" in this subject matter. If not for the start of this thread, I see it as entirely possible no change would be contemplated, if realized. It is difficult to fix a problem you don't know, or refuse to see exists. For myself, it is very hard to comprehend and understand how someone remote could ascertain the lack of willing membership participation, or interest in my local area? I was not given a chance and as mentioned earlier, wasn't even paid the courtesy of a return telephone call. I have a pile of "Double Clutch" magazines still in their respective mailing envelopes that have not been opened. What I mean here is that the subscription was renewed as this lapse was cited as the reason my chapter development was halted in the first place two plus years prior, (2005-2006). Had there been good communication from the start, this lapse would have not taken place. The magazine subscriptions in the shop were never for my own use, but rather for my customer's enjoyment while they waited for their automobiles. One thing I am not very good at is making a silk purse from a sow's ear. There are problems in the leadership of ATCA, and they need evaluated and fixed for the benefit of all concerned. I trust this is being looked into strongly. I do not expect overnight results, but am eagerly awaiting the changes that are coming. I would like to be a part of that change if, and when, it does happen. Rob

I got three of the last issue, (no shit). I'll send you one but need your address. Suppose I should go ahead and read one of em???? Rob

Hi Byron, I think it may be prudent to pull the other three heads from the engine for evaluation before expending the funds to acquire another used one, and possibly finding out later underlying problems. Head gaskets are cheap and if the other heads are good, a valve job is cheap insurance at this point. I don't have an E9 series of V8 Mack engine but several of the ENDT865, and 866 series so I'm a bit partial to the layout. Rob

So, the CHP is in such financial dire straits they have resorted to "suffocation", plus court costs??? I assume several speeding "offenders" will be lining up for punishment. Rob

Well, I too will be "dipped in shit"!! It's Herb's birthday!!! Happy birthday to you, and enjoy the day!! Rob

Jerry must forgot about ole' Rob. Rob

Think I've seen three R models with the treadplate aluminum headlamp panels. Two were firetrucks, and one was not. Don't know if they were an option or not. Rob

The rounded end of the master link, (if a slider lock) will go with the main direction of travel in operation. A master link with a lock plate will used two cotter pins and does not matter for direction as it is equal in strenth with either direction. This type is used mostly for power transmission when the loading is reversible such as your use. I would not use the slide locking type in your application. Rob

Information about Gonorrhea Lectim The Center for Disease Control has issued a warning about a new virulent strain of this old disease. The disease is called Gonorrhea Lectim. It's pronounced "Gonna re-elect 'em," and it is a terrible obamanation. The disease is contracted through dangerous and high risk behavior involving putting your cranium up your rectum. Many victims contracted it in 2008...but now most people, after having been infected for the past 1-2 years, are starting to realize how destructive this sickness is. It's sad because Gonorrhea Lectim is easily cured with a new drug just coming on the market called Votemout. You take the first dose in 2010 and the second dose in 2012 and simply don't engage in such behavior again; otherwise, it could become permanent and eventually wipe out all life as we know it. Several states are already on top of this, like Virginia and New Jersey, and apparently now Massachusetts, with many more seeing the writing on the wall. Please pass this important message on to all those bright folk you really care about

One of my customers, (house and heavy mover) has a couple trucks we've set up with 1241's behind Fuller transmissions and they work well. That is some pretty bad ground to work in sometimes and the extra gear selections are welcome for positioning. Rob

I don't see where it would be needed. With the 23:1 reduction for low gear, it is just a crawl to start with. Unless of course you need the ability to shift at less than two to three mph and keep moving. The 1241 shifter shown right up against the seat would always be in the driver's leg and it is already "snug" quarters in an R series cab for the average man. I have that same transmission in one of my trucks and it is very smooth and progressive. Rob

I have evaluated doing this for years myself but have resolved to installing a rear cutoff onto the front 1/2 of the truck, and installing a new set of "softer" front springs. Sure takes a lot less fabrication to do it this way. Most of the B series frames were spaced at 33.5" in width, (behind the cab to rear) and a good portion of the other trucks, (non Mack) out there are 34" in width. This 1/4" inch difference on each side gives an excellent welding ledge, (or fillet) to weld to. I then take a 1/4 inch plate the width of the inside of the frame rail vertical section, and weld it to the inner frame. The length is determined by the spacing of the crossmembers of the frame but make this at least 18" each side of the weldments determined prior to parting the truck. Not that the frame is the same width each side of the weld, I then bolt a "fishplate" to the inside of the frame using grade "8" hardware. I'm talking winch trucks so you may not need to be so heavy as each application is different. I had a set of springs made up for my B61 but have not installed, driven the truck yet. They should be softer than the originals, but I really don't mind a stiff ride. The rear is air from a donor truck. I'm using an E6-350 for the engine with either a nine, or 13 speed Fuller transmission, a 3.70 Rockwell rear. This combination should yield good reliability, and durability. The fabrication is much less than placing the cab onto another chassis and making things fit and work without a lot of reengineering. Biggest problem is everything is heavy. Rob

Gravity feed will serve to apply positive pressure to the inlet of the lift pump. If you bypass the lift pump on the side of the injection pump and feed directly into the fuel filter housing and your temporary fuel tank is higher than the filter housing, you should have fuel flow to fill the pump gallery within the injection pump. This will supply enough fuel to make the engine start assuming your fuel rack is not stuck. If the fuel rack is stuck, or frozen within the pump housing, there is nothing that will make the engine run till this is repaired, or loosened up. It is not difficult to do but a little time consuming. There is a cap that is hex shaped and screws out, or retained by two capscrews at the front of the injection pump just above the mounting flange to the engine. This covers the fuel rack. Remove this cap and there will be a round rod with a bolt screwed into it with a jamb nut holding it secure. You should be able to push and pull this fuel rack very easily with two fingers when the engine kill cable is not pulled to the stop position. If the rack will not move easily, you need to remove the pump from the engine, remove the side cover from the pump, and submerge the pump in diesel fuel for a few hours. Some have got lucky by just removing the side cover and leaving the pump on the engine but I've always pulled it off and never had problems getting the rack loosened. After the pump has had a good soaking, (diesel fuel is a very good penetrant) try to push and pull on the rack again. A little force may be in order here but not a lot. You can turn the pump shaft over by hand or with a wrench without too much trouble as the pump adapter will only install on the engine one way so you don't need to worry about timing. Inside the side cover there is a camshaft much like an engine camshaft that operates followers. These are the plungers and barrels and if a single plunger stays in the up position, and is not riding the camshaft, the fuel rack will be stuck and not let the engine start. I've taken a large screwdriver or chisel, and tapped the plunger spring back down. They usually snap back into position readily. After you get them back on the camshaft spin the pump again and ensure none stick again. Once they are all verified not sticking, reinstall the pump on the engine. I leave all the high pressure lines loose, but fastened onto the output fittings of the injection pump until they are all bleeding fuel when the engine is cranking and then tighten them up. When they are spewing fuel, (actually dribbling) tighten the lines, and crank on the engine. It will start to chug, fire, run rough for a bit, then smooth out when it starts firing on all cylinders. My memory isn't quite what it used to be but that's the way I used to do it. Rob