Rob

I always liked the radiator guards too but really enjoy the protection from stones and bugs a thick screen provides. I kept my guard but with the screen it can't be used:

They have a seemingly decent ground bearing detach, (Fontaine) I have a growing interest in: https://www.truckpaper.com/listings/trailers/for-sale/162342717/1999-fontaine-tb35

Had a few of those engines in generator duty on smaller air control towers and they did well. Don't know anything about them in on road use.

Thanks for the update. I was hoping you would come out alright. I did find my parts. Out in the back yard in the corn crib....

Looks like he ran a tight ship representing his business interests professionally.

I like the looks of this International. For sale on Boston Craigslist: https://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/hvo/d/accord-1996-international-tractor/7049536793.html

That's the way I've always done it and you won't damage anything. Four pound sledge usually makes it a "One Smack" affair.

They forgot enlist the help of Mike Ditka and "Da Bears" to stop the deal. Of course if Chuck Norris would have gotten involved, all bets would've been off.....

Either have Garrison rebuild your's if they still offer the service, or a new unit. I never had long term success with a reman unit when they were available. It wears internally through use and is not readily rebuildable on a bench. I'm not speaking from direct experience but what I was told years ago.

There are several other outfits around that do the same but they more specialize in a certain brand, or model. There are also very good quality aftermarket places stamping sheet metal to OEM specifications although I don't know if any Mack related would apply. GM, Chrysler, and Ford products are quite well supported by DMD parts in Georgia for instance. I ordered 1/4's for my Barracuda from them and minus the "Mopar" stickers that would have been on the OEM, you really cannot tell the difference.

In the photo there is a large cotter pin circled in yellow on the left side. Remove this pin and it runs through the center of a large flat trough. Use a large screwdriver or suitable tool and untread this adjuster plug. The end will pull from the ball stud in the pitman arm attached to the steering gear. The other yellow circle on the right is just a large tie rod end. Remove the cotter pin, loosen the castleated nut till three or four threads remain, and smack the arm this end mounts to with a four pound sledge and it will drop free.

Local dealers around here are tied into them also. I got an OEM grille for a 75 GMC pickup, (Gentleman Jim package) they'd had much longer than eight years too once.

That does sound strange but if you are holding high boost pressure at very low engine speed or even idle, it sounds as if the engine exhaust system is plugged, or restricted. I don't know if your pressure gauge is electronic, or mechanical as have no experience with the newer engines but I'd replace your existing gauge with a mechanical one and verify the problem actually exists. Of course an exhaust system that is restricted will run hot, power will be down, and I'm sure with all the sensors involved there would be many codes thrown.

Yup. I have one on a stand in the shop that is complete. Pulled from a 68 M54A1 several years ago.

Most likely was a York as they were the most common through the 1970's. Easy compressor to rebuild but the quality of the rebuild parts can be questionable. Aftermarket replacements are "spotty" in longevity and a Sanden compressor is an easy adaption with conversion brackets readily available. The Sanden takes less power to run also.

What compressor; York, Frigidaire, Sanden? None are difficult but really not cost effective to do. I'd replace with a modern seven cylinder Sanden unit as they are very reliable if installed and oil charged correctly.

I'm getting ready to replace mine too but the old one will be cut up:

I found my reamer set and worked through three of them before getting a nice clean scrape from the guides of the unloaders. I do think that rear one was the culprit. With the new unloaders, and coupling assembly installed, the system seems to be much quieter and the system unloads readily when the engine is held at a steady 2000rpm. I've not driven the truck since buttoning it up but may tomorrow. So far however the engine is much quieter and that "rattle" seems to be gone.

I imagine they leave you with bad breath and make everything you eat taste like shit too.....

Looks like a really nice trailer and I hope it serves you well.

It's like my grandpa used to say, "Boy, you know you've put in a good day with a rough riding truck when you can taste your own hemorrhoids".

I used to work with a guy whom had a 73 and it was a 4070B according to serial number when I ordered parts?

Finally found what I think is the problem with the unloading of the compressor. The rear most unloader had to be pried out of the guide and was stuck fast. I basically destroyed it by pulling it out with needle nose vise grip pliers. Don't really notice any carbon buildup in the bores and I went ahead and removed the head finding nothing really out of place. I'm going to make a wrench to remove the valve plates and then send the head through the hot tank to ensure it's clean. I think I have the correct size reamer in my box to ensure the guides are clean but will need to look. No oil or carbon in the discharge pipe to be concerned with either. The compressor is about 11 years old or so since rebuilt but not many miles or hours on it since.

Exactly.

Sure we do. It's measured in tons of yield with the reaction starting between 3K, and 6K above ground level for dispersion.