Jump to content

Rob

BMT Benefactor
  • Posts

    12,753
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    175

Everything posted by Rob

  1. You learn quick!!! I'm sure this one needs rebuilt also being from PA, (no disrespect meant). Rob
  2. Yeah, that really is what I want to end up with someday. I can imagine that would really pull well with one of my spare engines/transmissions under the hood. A 300, and five speed just wouldn't be enough. Rob
  3. Here is what I've been wanting. A 1st generation Superliner. Hope someone snaps this up cause it looks pretty good to me. Rob http://cgi.ebay.com/...ercialQ5fTrucks
  4. Hi Leon, that is a very heavy trailer, about 19,900 pounds!! There are 454 grams in a pound so when the math is done, 9000,000 grams divided by 454 grams equals 19,823.79 pounds!! I would definately look into spring brakes for the tractor. Rob
  5. Great!! You drive a Pete. You will break down!! Scrap prices are at an all time high for them trucks no matter the condition!! Come on down!!, (Bob Barker, of Price is Right! fame). Rob
  6. Hi Leon, if you have spring brakes I wouldn't swap over the brake drum parking brake. If you don't have spring parking brakes I would seriously look to install them. No particular reason other than they are much better at holding the truck anchored in position. Rob
  7. I let school busses turn around on my property whenever they need. Also let anyone that breaks down along the highway park their vehicles overnight should they require. One bus driver in the pouring rain was a bit too ignorant to stay on the gravel of the parking lot and went trapesing across my lawn and rutted it quite deeply spinning the tires as she was sinking. No apologies, or anything. When I seen the potty mouthed cunt and asked her about it, she acknowleged she was unfamiliar with the arrangement but not before calling me an asshole. A well place telephone call took care of the problem. A single call eliminated her position, and brought eight high schoolers from the industrial arts class to fix the yard to my liking. The industrial arts classes used to field trip to the shop quite often to "job shadow". Funny how much easier it was to have high schoolers that were highly motivated around. I'd get more done in four manhours per student than I'd get from my own employees by far with no bitching. In return I think they received good training. Some furthered a future in the auto body industry. I'm still paid a visit ever now and then by former students. Basically I believe in taking care of those that take care of me. I would make it a point to patronize the business if it is taken from. This very possibly could work in everyone's favor. Rob
  8. Hi Leon, I'm not absolutely positive but I think the 7220 series is double overdrive where you original is a single overdrive. Exterior dimensions are the same and it will fit your truck. Rob
  9. Are you saying that if you probe the frame with both the positive, and negative leads of your multimeter, you read a voltage? Time for a new meter if you do. I don't think there is enough information conveyed to make any type of diagnosis. Would like to help if possible but need more information. Rob
  10. Now I'm salivating. I like all things properly cooked. Don't much matter the breed. Rob
  11. Tired but cannot sleep. Up at 3:30a.m checking the internet.

  12. An R14 relay valve is used to control the application and retraction of the spring parking brakes. They are available in horizontal, and vertical ports. They can also be plumbed to allow for anti compounding of the brakes so you don't warp hot brake drums by applying service brake pressure with spring brake pressure. This eliminates the SR series valves that do the same thing. I'm assuming the "unloader" that you refer to is the "QR" series of valve that is for quick release of the air pressure holding the spring brakes released. These do wear out from time to time but if it is full of trash you probably better check the rest of the air system for fouling and garbage also. You just may have an air compressor needing some attention. Rob
  13. A good portion of them out there could use that type of education too. Rob
  14. Perfect example of Illinois politics. Rob
  15. I know, it's hell getting old. I'm not worried till my boy thinks he can whup my ass though. Rob
  16. Really showing my age here but had to ask my daughter what "TMI" stood for........ She asked why I needed to know and after telling her, she rolled her eyes at me. Rob
  17. Well what do you know?? I too took and dump this morning. Sounds like we're both at ease about it. Rob
  18. Been at work all night after severe weather moved through the area.

  19. figgerd so. Rob
  20. Up to this point I've not told you how to prep the new gutter and roof skin panel: First off when you get all your welding/patching done in preparation for the installation of new parts take a wire wheel, (or sandblaster) and clean/remove all the loose scale, and flaking corrosion. Then when all steel shows a light silver face weld your new drip rail to the cabs newly repaired rear panel. With this welding finished it is a real good time to paint all the bare steel with a corrosion inhibitive paint such a "POR-15". After drying, I then take a 3/8ths inch thick "Scotchbrite" disc and clean/remove the "e" coat from the upper horizontal portion of the drip edge to bare steel. Then place the prepared roof skin on top of the cab, align and clamp with a few sets of "Vise Grip" pliers, and get busy with the welder. As far as heat setting, you barely want to see deformation of the bottom of the drip edge horizontal area and a good melt into the upper area of the roof skin. If you plan to weld the parts only then you will need to drill or punch a series of holes about four inches apart on the flange area of the new roof skin. I use 1/4" and have a pneumatic punch for this. 3/8ths will work but is a lot more welding and grinding to finish. You must also have holes in the drip rail to weld it to the cab panel. This is called "plug welding". I have a spot welder that works from both a single side, and double side with a squeeze clamp but I still prefer to plug weld as it is much stronger. In an earlier post I addressed the glue and screw method and it will work also but is not my preference. Hyman Auto Supply, (based in Chicago) is the parent company of Specialty Paints whom I use for my vendor of the RustFire/RustFree products. If you have trouble give me a call and I'll send you up my applicator gun, and a gallon of the stuff. I don't think it comes in spray cans as I've never seen it. I use the undercoating set to apply it. Rob
  21. Hubcaps sure look rusty in that photo. Rob
  22. The rear cab panel is one piece from the bottom to the top where your's is rotted away. The gutter is bent at an angle and welds to the rear panel that will be up under the roof skin when all is said and done. It must be installed prior to the roof skin being mounted. Rob
  23. Your just getting started. I'm not surprised with what I see. You still have a couple of hard hours ahead drilling the spotwelds. Glad the windshield perimeter is in fine shape from the photos but there is still more to reveal. Don't get lazy and cut the roof skin trailers off without drilling the flange spotwelds. Seen that done more times than I can count and it always accelerates the return of the rust. Keep going, you're making great progress. Rob
  24. You know why a new bride smiles so big? Realization she's performed her last "job". Rob
  25. Finally got a full night's sleep in over two weeks with reduced pain. Still busting pusballs and a spot of blood from my gum but can live with it.

×
×
  • Create New...