Rob

I don't have a scanner that works or that would be my preference also. "PM" means private message. I don't mind sharing my phone number but others don't care to for privacy reasons. I can't think of a reason you would have 24VDC available unless something is connected incorrectly. Most regulators have the voltage either silkscreened, or stamped into them but due to age this could be very difficult to ascertain. Thanks, Rob

Chihuahua is a greasy meat and must be expeditously seared at ultra high temperature for just the correct amount of time prior to further preparation. A "catheter", (jointly developed by Rob's Road Kill Cafe, and the Department of Defense) is then inserted at a 30 degree angle to allow for proper "runoff" of the effluent juices. Smoking serves to bring these juices to just below the surface of the meat detracting from the delicacy factor. Rob

Obviously the mutt don't mean much to her. Let me start the oven. Tom, start the secret sauce. Rob

If you will PM me a fax number i'll send you a diagram that is easy to follow for hooking these up. I've made a "cheat sheet" for just such a purpose. Not sure what you mean with the ancillary wire mentioned as there is not 24VDC available in the system until engine crank is initiated. Then that voltage is only applied to the starter motor and nowhere else. Rob

I have an air cleaner and brackets from a 1978 R model with a 676 engine that is perfect and without dents, or rust. It is dual outlet for the air to the turbocharger, and tip turbine fan. Problem is, I need a single outlet air cleaner. Before I weld this one up to make it work for my purpose does anyone here have the one I need to trade for? This one is Mack yellow and is original. It still has the sticker for the part and filter number on it. The plastic lid, hat, bonnet, or what ever it is called is with it too. Thanks, Rob

Looks rugged just sitting there!! Rob

I agree and it's just a wire to pull to isolate the problem. Wonder how it idles at about 1000rpm? Rob

All is 12VDC. The series/parallel switch puts the 12VDC batteries in a series configuration to supply 24VDC to the starter motor. The voltage regulator, and generator is 12VDC and most likely positive ground if original. Rob

New vehicles really aren't any better, just not as dirty. Rob

That plate that is riveted or bolted to the floor covers where the series/parallel switch used to mount. Most likely yours has been converted to 12VDC start and no longer uses the switch. Look at you starter, is is long and round with a bolt on flange at one end to mount to the flywheel housing? Does it have a solenoid mounted directly to the starter motor with the heavy battery cables attached to two large center terminals and smaller wires connected to the smaller terminals? If it has a solenoid chances are it is 12VDC start. If you have cleaned all the battery terminals take each bolt loose that mounts the starter to the flywheel housing and clean the area with a wire brush or sandpaper. Also look for a heavy ground wire on the starter motor itself and make certain it is also clean. A 42MT starter such as the one described also has a large copper ring internal the carries all the starter current. It, over time will burn just as the series/parallel switch discs will. These too can be cleaned, or flipped to produce a new side for contact. These solenoids however are readily available and for usually just under $50.00 , most consider them a throw away item. Rob

Take the series/parallel switch apart and clean the internal contacts before you destroy them if you've already cleaned the battery cable connections. This is a common problem and parts are hard to come by anymore. Rob

Have you guys blasted the radiator core clean? Sometimes they look clean but have a nice insulating layer of grime on the cooling tubes only a detergent will break. Also when the truck is at an idle, (both low and high) look in the upper coolant tank for bubbles from a blown head gasket pressurizing the cooling system. This will impede coolant flow through the system allowing rapid heating. Just another thought. Rob

That really doesn't sound out of line for a truck that could be operated right away. Even with the anticipation of replacing an engine in the future with something better as far as parts availability. Rob

Naw, she is 12VDC with 24VDC start. It should be positive ground unless it has been changed. With the engine wanting to fly off the mounts when you hit the button says the series/parallel switch under the cover on the floorboard is working well. You will appreciate that fast starter if trying to start the truck in cold weather not plugged in....... Chances are your regulator on the firewall on the driver's side is the issue. Whether the problem lies in wiring, or actual parts I do not know at this point. If the vehicle sat for a long time without being ran, the electrical generator may need to be repolarized. First thing I would do is while the truck is idling, clip a wire on the post that holds the cable running to the battery negative post, (if positive ground). Momentarily touch this jumper wire to the "F" terminal on the generator, (you may see a spark) then check for a charge condition at a high idle. Once you apply voltage to the terminal you have "excited" the fields within the generator and the soft iron core of the armature will retain the magnetism so it won't need repolarized again. If this doesn't get you to charging start to trace out the wiring and don't rule out replacing the voltage regulator. They are not that expensive and a new one will be pre adjusted to proper voltage and current output. Best nowadays to convert to an alternator but it's not necessary. Barry has posted a wiring diagram of the electrical in the help sections within the website. Rob

I'm with Herb on the fan clutch. There is a procedure to test that in the service manuals. It checks for proper operation by measuring temperature and percentage of slip. It is accurate and will show you when time to replace. On your boost gauge giving inaccurate readings sounds like the turbocharger is shot. Instead of pushing the air out of itself and into the intake manifold the turbocharger is reaching a point of "saturation". This is the theoretical point where it cannot make any more pressure, nor overcome the resistance of the plumbing to shove the pressurized air into. Each time a discharge vane on the compressor wheel passes it's discharge point, the pressurized air already in the plumbing fights, or resists the discharge of the incoming air and this upsets the pressure balance in the intake system. This is the erratic operation of the gauge you are experiencing. Basically the turbocharger is needing rebuilt from my experience. Of course, if there is a boost pressure regulator valve that has malfunctioned, or a plugged charge air cooler, it can yield the same results. I have no idea what normal boost pressure is in that engine, or whether it incorporates a presure control device. Saturation if let go is fatal to turbocharger compressor vanes as the shock waves fracture them and then repairs get expensive. Best check it out before going much further. Rob

Sure is a nice looking truck from the photo. I'd be a little hesitant to work it however with the parts availability of the engine without spares readily available. I can't afford it but do you know what the price was? Rob

A prudent decision. What type of gear is it? Rob

Old Butch John was in the fertilized egg business. He had several hundred young layers (hens), called 'pullets,' and ten roosters to fertilize the eggs. He kept records, and any rooster not performing went into the soup pot and was replaced. This took a lot of time, so he bought some tiny bells and attached them to his roosters. Each bell had a different tone, so he could tell from a distance, which rooster was performing. Now, he could sit on the porch and fill out an efficiency report by just listening to the bells. John's favorite rooster, old Butch, was a very fine specimen, but this morning he noticed old Butch's bell hadn't rung at all! When he went to investigate, he saw the other roosters were busy chasing pullets, bells-a-ringing, but the pullets, hearing the roosters coming, would run for cover. To John's amazement, old Butch had his bell in his beak, so it couldn't ring. He'd sneak up on a pullet, do his job and walk on to the next one. John was so proud of old Butch, he entered him in the Saint Lawrence County Fair and he became an overnight sensation among the judges. The result was the judges not only awarded old Butch the "No Bell Piece Prize," but they also awarded him the "Pulletsurprise" as well. Clearly old Butch was a politician in the making. Who else but a politician could figure out how to win two of the most coveted awards on our planet by being the best at sneaking up on the unsuspecting populace and screwing them when they weren't paying attention. Vote carefully this fall, the bells are not always audible.

I'm wanting to find a shop to do my aluminum parts on both RL series trucks in the near future. Also have two or three pairs of five hand hole Alcoa wheels needing some polish. I don't have the time, nor the patience to do the work. Rob

Mornin Herb, I don't really know his business name but the gent I've dealt with is Fred Kevlek. I've always talked to him solely. Rob

Hi there, Have you checked to ensure the center pins, sping eye bushings, and shackle bushings on the leaf springs are in good shape? As mentioned you need to have the steering gear centered on it's high point to check for lash in the gear. If the gear is a Ross, chances are there are adjustments but it may be only for depth of mesh to the sector and pinion. Usually the ball screw/bearing wear does not exibit that much play through the steering wheel without something else worn also. A quick way to check the gear is to diconnect the drag link at the pitman arm, center the steering gear by turning lock to lock, then returning 1/2 the amount. Secure the steering wheel by rubber strap, or have someone hold the wheel steady, and try to move the pitman are fore and aft. If it moves more than a slight amount, the gear is either shot, or needs adjustment. If you can only move the pitman are about 1/16th of an inch, you have problems elswhere in the steering system. One other thing is to make sure that gear is still firmly bolted to the frame and not slipping, or wollered out it's mounting holes!! Rob

Yup, I've pulled a couple with melted pistons from too much fuel. That is one of the reasons I only suggest 15% fuel delivery rate over factory. The second factor is that most pump shops will not warrant their work if the pump output is raised 20%. A stock 285 tuned correctly will slip the tires in a single axle tractor with a light trailer attached without much effort. Increasing the power by much is of relatively little gain in the prospected usage. At a couple hundred bucks a hole to get a pump rebuilt, I prefer to have a guarantee the thing is correct for a respectable amount of time in usage. Rob

Must be a St. Louis kind of thing cause I'd have to agree. Rob