Rob

I guess that's better than bending over backwards naked and snapping the photo between the legs while cracking a smile. Rob

Momma's momma said in the early days I'd just give her daughter a bad reputation; well, I never did. So now I'm just trying to earn my own........ Rob

Hi Barry, this is another good idea however I lost 12 "reputations" with one of the board upgrades a couple of times ago. Are they lost forever? Rob

Your reflection and it didn't crack?????? That has got to be expensive. Wonder how the durability of the shine holds up? Rob

I look for more of this type of thing in the next few months. Rob https://mail.google.com/mail/h/1n557qf9ggzbh/?view=att&th=12905b9577040938&attid=0.1&disp=attd&zw

We're right on top of those type things. Rob

One of many staging areas around the country as the scrap value elevates. They have been crushed since photo was snapped. Rob

The pyrometer can only be one of two things. Either the thermocouple and wire, (screwed into exhaust near turbocharger) or the gauge in the dash has gone bad. Most likely the thermocouple. Just get a new one, install it and good to go. It will only have two wires, one is red, the other yellow. Pay attention to how they are mounted to the gauge and reconnect the same way. These generate a small DC voltage to drive the meter movement and require no external power source other than for a backlight. They are known as a "Type K" thermocouple due to the temperature spectrum they are designed to operate within. The steering wheel typically comes off with the horn button twisting about 90 degrees to the left. Most you need to depress the horn button so I disconnect the batteries so as to not listen to the horn blow. You will then need to pull the nut on the steering shaft, install a puller and pull it free of the tapered shaft. I would probably have the alignment checked on the truck first however. Those wheels don't slip on the splines. Some are keyed, some are not so it is a possibility it was never installed with the proper orientation. Most times a non centered steering wheel is by incorrect setting of the toe alignment. This is the last adjustment in any front end alignment. If you've never had the service performed, it is worth the money for a thrust alignment to ensure all tracks as it should. Rob

You'll like Fred's work. If you give him the criteria you wish to operate within, that injection system will meet it without a doubt. Thought you'd get a "kick" out of the tax comment!! Rob

Hi Tony, the way you plan to use that truck really will not tax, (how bout that term for a guy in California) that motor at all. I would however pull the pump and injectors, send them to a fuel shop to be checked/calibrated and bump the pump output up about 15% over stock. You really don't need to go anymore as it's output will never be realized to full potential. That motor already has more power than you will ever need. I would also send the air induction parts into various shops to ensure they are perfect prior to putting them into service. Lots easier to work on engines when they are on the floor rather than in a chassis. Might as well put a set of bearings in it too while it's easy. Rob

That air ride cutoff I picked up in Wooster has 3.70 gears so I'll let you know how the 170hp Thermodyne does in my 57 B61 with a double over triplex on tall 22" rubber. I figger my "downhill with a tailwind" speed with be blinding!! Uphill, well, the jury is out on that one...... Rob

Engine parts will be virtually non-existant, body parts scarce. There simply wasn't enough of them produced in four model years to be plentiful in the used parts market. Rob

I can't say for 100% sure but I've had both transmissions you speak of. From what I remember you can convert the two stick to an air shifted single stick by replacing the shift forks in the transmission, and the complete top cover of the hi/lo/reverse range box. Can't remember if the rails require replacement too. I think the back 1/2 of the transmission would need to come off/apart to facilitate the conversion. You would also need the air regulators, shifter and selectair valve, lineset, etc. to further the conversion. These parts by no means are inexpensive. Seems like shifting forks are about $400.00 each. The TRXL-107A trans may be easy to come across from a donor truck also as they were common. I did work for a fertilizer outfit that had a bunch of Macks running nurse trucks and replaced several transmissions with Fullers due to the same as you want to do. As virtually bulletproof as that Mack transmission is, an inexperienced, or careless driver can destroy it. I myself have one with a tooth knocked off a gear, (not by me). Rob

Some are installed with adhesive, some not. The old rubber fuses itself to the glass due to the hot/cold cycles it has endured. I usually just cut the rubber with a windshield cut out knife and replace it. Ensure upon reassembly that the fit between the glass and rubber is a snug fit. Otherwise the window will stay in the raised position while you lower the track. Rob

Yes, thanks for posting. Don't get to see too many of those any longer. That one looks as if it's earned it's rest. Rob

Don't hit the rubber with methylene chloride which is the main ingredient of commercial paint strippers. It will soften and destroy the rubber. Use something like 3M safe strip or one of the citrus based paint strippers which is much easier on the rubber. It doesn't work near as fast. Rob

A little bit of "personal lubricant" lessens the resistance. The squish however, never goes away. Rob

Momma don't fit no good in a B model Mack. We tried that last year sometime. Didn't leave me much room to shift. Kinda difficult to master cause everytime I'd shift the main, I'd feel a "squish" and resistance. Rob

I can't say I've ever seen bolt together rims on an on highway truck. I have seen them on industrial equipment and off road trucks such as mine equipment. I have seen the type the centers were riveted into place on an old style budd wheel. The two piece split rims are perfectly safe if assembled correctly, by knowlegable people. It's the three piece ones that are prone to coming apart as they are inflated. The three piece rims are getting hard to get serviced by tire shops any longer. The two piece type which have been around for many years are no problem. They are easy to tell apart as the three piece rims have the main rim, an outside ring, then a thin locker ring that locks the two others together. The two piece rim has just that, two pieces. Also the three piece rims use a rubber seal so there are actually four pieces to it.. Rob

I figger since you all are sitting at home enjoying the holiday I'd provide you with a little something to remember: Here is a photo of my wife, (Momma) sporting her latest exercise outfit. She is quite pleased as it makes her appear about three pounds lighter than the other one. Rob

Bring it down here, I'll work with you on it. If you hire it done it will be expensive as if it's in as good of shape as mine, probably $1800.00 or so. Lot's cheaper if your willing to do the "grunt" work with guidance. Rob