Rob

That my friend looks like a nice platform to start from. Good luck in your endeavor. Rob

I think my "parts engine" has that setup also but I'll have to look. Won't be back to the shop till this afternoon. How long before you will be in Chicago again? Rob

POR-15 is a very good product but as Grant said it has no UV protection built in. It must be allowed to "gas out" before topcoating with a final color or it will do as Al stated; BTDT. I use a product called "Chassis Saver". It is just as good as the POR-15 but costs quite a bit less. It also doesn't "chalk off" near as bad as the other product when the sun hits it. Rob

Went over to my cousins house for a nice little cookout and family get together. After I seen the way he was cooking, I really wasn't too hungry for Bar B Q. I then headed down to the local Subway restaurant to see what they had for the holiday. I didn't eat there either. I went back home and had a bowl of Cheerios. Rob

Most any of your parts stores will be able to set you up without problems. I wouldn't worry about a Wagner brand as it is not the same company it was years ago. A heavy duty three prong flasher unit is what you need. Rob

Yes and rockers only take about an hour and a half per side to install on that cab. Rob

While I've never put an E9 into anything it will fit without too many problems. You will however expend funds for ancillary equipment to make all line up and out. You will probably need to change the radiator as all the V8 engines I've been around use dual outlet from the engine for radiator hoses. If the radiator has aluminum tanks it very well may have a cover for the opening on the unused side. In that case just get the proper neck to bolt onto the tank and you will be good to go. I like the RS, and RL series of trucks as the grille and minor differences are appealing to me. I never really seen too many of them around when I was growing up but a lot of 600 series trucks of all variants were prevelant. I'm sure you are well aware of the cost to work on an E9 and it's getting no less expensive as time goes on. Just be careful, watch your gauges, and use a light foot on the go pedal and it will last till your done with it....... I'd do the same thing with my Project R-12 if I had an E9 rather than the engine I'm planning to use. I'll never use the capacity I have in my lifetime cause I'm too cheap to run it hard and hurt it. Rob

It looks as if you may need to get the stub shaft and gear that is driven from an existing gear. I don't know if the original cover is sealed with a plug that can be removed, or is blank that would require boring for a support bearing, retainer, and seal. Rob

Don't recall the number but is that the long one that is gold anodized on the cover with three terminals? Rob

You're well on your way to solving your own problem. Always good to have the variable knocked down or isolated. Rob

I did that for a couple of years. I work on airfields so the security issue is already taken care of. "T" hangers are not expensive at your small either FBO, or private, non controlled airports. They can run anywhere from $100.00-$200.00 monthly for rent and offer very limited electricity. They are however dry, but very humid and will cause an old truck to rust quickly. Newer hangers being built within the last few years are of much better construction but cost more to rent. Rob

R model roofs are a lot like a Jeep CJ. If you can see rust on the outside. It is much worse on the inside. This is of course based on my limited experience with the model........ There can be a real can of worms under that skin. The attached photos show common rust areas from both leaks, and roof air units. Roof skins aren't cheap by any means. I think they run about $600.00 if memory serves. Not too bad of a job just be sure to use a weld through primer, and dump enough rust preventative material into the area from the interior and you'll be fine. Then use a "self leveling" seam sealer in the rain gutter or trough to ensure water doesn't creep under your good work. You could of course glue the skin down with just a couple of plug welds at all corners but I stick with welding them solid. I've seen too much glue break, or fracture as it does not dry flexible. Rob

I must!! Parts can't be had no more unless real lucky, (I'm not). Best ensure your battery terminal connections are both clean, and tight because a high resistance connection such as your symptoms appear rapidly vaporize the contacting metal which is usually copper. The copper ring, and mating contacts are long obsolete but can be remade if one wants with a little money, and a lot of time. The only reason I took to rebuilding them is my lack of 12V, 42MT starters. From what I take of your given scenario is this: When you mash on the starter button and only hear a click, or nothing, but there is still 12VDC power available through the truck's electrical system, (sometimes not) there is rapid heating of a high resistance connection someplace in the high current starting circuit. This temporarily melts a little bit of the connection, or incinerates the corrosion. It is only a matter of time before this burns so much material away the mechanical connection is no longer electrically connected. Basically you can be stuck on the side of the road at this point. When you take things apart you either find a battery post melted off of a battery, a connection melted at the s/p switch, or the internal section of the switch laying in a pool of solidified copper. I have fond memories of just these scenarios. I learned to fix them out of necessary rather than just being cheap because I didn't know any better. Knowing the truck is completely 12VDC in the electrical system other than the starter motor, I just move to the aforementioned starter motor. The 42MT starter has the solenoid built onto it like a pickup truck. You just wire from the dash switch to the starter solenoid "S" terminal. When you mash your starter button now, it kicks in the solenoid on the starter. You can then eliminate the s/p switch between the seats but do run the battery cables in parallel fashion to the starter solenoid. Also ground your battery negatives, (or positive depending on the truck's polarity) to one of the bolts that retain the starter to the block or flywheel housing. A 12VDC starter draws one hell of a lot of inrush current amps when it starts to crank the engine and you want your electrical connections as close as possible to the draw so the chassis doesn't become part of the circuit. Now dammit Herb, I had to open the cold storage locker for that tidbit of information. Don't get me started again as things was starting to thaw. Rob

I've always considered it "cleansing of my sins". Credit card sure gets dirty as much as I use it. I do pay it off monthly however. Rob

I'd lay odds they'd take it back. I've have stuff over two years, decided I didn't need it and took it back. This was still new, unused merchandise however. It wouldn't be fair, or right to ask them to take something worn, or used back that old, (and you know about me and fairness). Rob

If you are working on an abortion, a coat hanger will suffice with no need for expensive utencils. Yes, Mack did make small multi speed transmissions for their gasoline powered trucks. They were of the TR-67 series that I've been around. I have a very small nine speed fuller that uses 1710 series u-joints and a small clutch with SAE #2 housing. It is from a 1979 Ford with a 534V8 gas engine. Nothing wrong with the trans other than being in my barn for a few years. Truck backfired and burnt up so was junked. I'd rather trade something of use rather than sell if your interested. Got any good 20" steer tires? Always looking for spare Mack parts. Thanks, Rob

That is exactly the reason I brought up the potential restoration facility. A lot of folks don't think this part through. An eight foot overhead door opening is not going to allow an "H" model Mack through it. A "B" model is a very tight fit with the steer axle tires 1/2 flattened, and the vertical stack removed above the muffler. This is experience speaking....... With a wrecked car you need about twice the workspace the car takes up as a parking space. With a large truck torn to pieces, you need at least twice. Your spare room depletes on short order and you start to finding little cubby holes to shove stuff, then you repurchase what you have because you cannot find it when needed..... Man, this all sounds too familiar. You'd think I'd been through some of this before. Rob

Hi Tom, unless you have something extremely simple such as a bad cable, or miswiring problem, consumer electronics are seldom worth the cost to repair. Don't spend a lot of time either pulling hair, or going gray, just replace it. Rob

If you are starting out with nothing, Very deep pockets are a necessity to start out. You don't simply use automotive tools for a lot of this stuff or you're going to get hurt. Stop by a few truck garages and ask questions. What do they use, what do they not use. An usused tool does no good for much except empty the wallet etc... Can you get a project inside to work on it? Are the neighbors tolerant of your ambitions? The driveway is not much fun to work in when it's raining, or cold outside, and progress at times will be agonizingly slow. Not to be discouraging but I have three trucks due to former owners losing ambitions in their projects, and therefore lost quite a bit of money. I always caution prospective restorers of this phenomenom because it is very real. If you plan to obtain a huge profit from a restoration, purge your ambitions at the front because few do. You will discover very quickly that parts are both difficult to obtain, and expensive. With the accumulated age and use, these can be very expensive to rebuild also. I admire your ambition, talent, and desire. Just don't want to see you go broke or lose a lot of money getting to the final stages. You would be better off paying $15.000 for a project to your liking needing only cosmetic work, as opposed to a $5000.00 initial purchase price project needing five times that to finish. Look at the "H" models mentioned earlier. These are indeed "parts trucks". Not saying one of them couldn't be revived but the green one that is being auctioned as a rebuilder and taken apart, well, lets just say there is a reason for that....... Rob

I've never had an 866 apart so don't really know. I'll look into the service manuals for an exploded parts breakdown this afternoon. Rob

Hi Grant, I told you wrong on the A/C drive. The 866 engine drives the compressor from the auxilary shaft on the rt. front of the engine. I confused trucks...... Here are a few photos. Also the heater hoses pickup on the discharge, and inlet housing of the water pump. You can see this in the photos also. Rob

I've seen the exhaust bands that encircle the mufflers bolted there as mine are and also a bracket the bolts through the rain gutter at the top. Rob

Yes, it will only go on one way if the engine rotation is not disturbed and you do not need to remove the air compressor to remove the injection pump. Rob

I've seen the same thing. However, there have been a lot of oil and greases marketed for a lot of specific purposes for a lot of years before the Lucas products came out without problems. I would rather use a product designated and tested for a specific purpose rather than add any kind of "snake oil" to help it along. Nothing wrong with the product, nor am I bashing it, however I've never had an oil related failure in any engine, trans, or rear and everything I drive has in excess of 200,000 miles. My Dodge truck has been way overloaded a good portion of it's career and there are no real metal shavings in the axle drain oil every 30,000 miles or so. I'm also still on the original automatic transmission with the same service intervals. The truck has yet to consume engine oil between 5000 mile drain intervals also. I really don't run any additives in anything but do not run anything but Chevron, or Mobil products. Just as you asked for, "my opinions". Rob

Lower rt. front of the engine driven from the crankshaft sheave. I'll grab you some photos in a couple of hours when I'm at the shop. Rob