Rob

I looked at that truck a couple of years ago but the price was a bit high back then. Glad to see a collector wind up with it. Rob

From your description of the engine you have an ENDT865B if "Dynatard" equipt. No matter with the problem you're experiencing. I assume you do not have a hand primer pump also. This engine is a bitch to get stated after running out of fuel. I get picked on constantly because my own experience ensures it. The brutal SOB's on here always pick on me........... Actually it is not hard to get started. Ensure your filters are full with fuel. Close the fuel crossover valve on one tank. Have a helper place a blow gun and air line from a shop compressor into the fuel tank with the pickup tube sealing around the blow gun with a shop rag. While cranking the engine pressurize the tank and it should start. That engine with the "V" pump does not draw well through the length of line it has to. You probably should ensure you have good fuel lines and nothing is busted allowing air to enter. Even with a small leak the engine with the pressurized fuel tank should start. When running look for wet spots on the lines. I have three V8's and none of them start easy when they've lost their prime, (sorta like me). Rob

Are you wanting the cartridge filter that goes into a brass filter housing? Wix is the supplier for all Carquest branded filters. You should be able to get the number converted unless the filter is obsolete; then the real joy begins. Rob

You have a Wix filter now. Go to wixfilters.com for any conversions to other vendors. Rob

There is quite a bit of room to the cab from the back of the engine in the long hood R models. I will measure from the cab mount to the spring shackle and relay the measurements. I will also measure the length of the frame from the front of frame to the spring shackle mounting holes. Do you want photos of the hinge area for tilting the hood also? Rob

Hi Grant, I'll snap a couple photos tonight for you and put dimensions along with them. What type of hood hinge arrangement are you using for the opening? Does it use small tie rod ends, or flat hinge plates? I have both at the shop. Do you prefer metric measurements, or inches? Rob

You can test the coils readily with a couple of inexpensive digital multimeters during operation of the vehicle. Keep in mind a coil is nothing more than a step up transformer. The "+" terminal supplies battery voltage, the "-" terminal connects to the ignition breaker points, and the high tension lead connects to the spark distributor to be routed to the proper spark plug in sequence for the engine to run. As you probably know the breaker points when closed short the saturated field of the coil to ground inducing a high voltage into the secondary winding of the coil which is then passed to the distributor. If you lift the lead and connect the negative lead of a multimeter to the "+" terminal, and the positive lead to the disconnected wire, all coil current will pass through the meter. Most coils carry about 200ma, (.2 amps) when running, and most meters will handle this minute current. Carry the meter in the truck cab with you as the truck is operated. If the coil does in fact open up, the current indicated on the meter will go to zero immediately as the engine stalls out. Another way is to use an external pulse generator set at about 200hz, (2000 engine rpm with a six cylinder) with about a 12vpp signal output supplied to the "+" terminal, and the high tension lead connected to a spark plug where the body is grounded. In the scenario the "-" terminal is unused. Either way will put a good duty cycle to the coil. I would change the capacitors also just for kicks. Electrolytic capacitors, (misnomer called condensors) break down with age as I've seen many times. Rob

Been around tractors so long it's habit to check the exhaust before starting. Them suckers blow off pretty good though if you forget. Rob

Kudos as it looks much better. Rob

Personal preference: I don't like rain caps except on a genset with vertical exhaust. A coffee can works very well for my applications if the truck is stored out of doors which mine typically are not. Rob

Don't feel bad. Last week I put a bedside on an 09 Chevy 1/2 ton because the owner jacknifed his trailer full of ATV's when it got away from him backing up. This guy hauls new Caterpillar equipment for a living on both Lowboy, and dropdeck, but freak accidents can humble us at any time. Rob

Man, sure are some sick, twisted, dimented, hallucenagenic, and obscure individuals on here. Don't know how I'll cope now that I've been recommended for sainthood. And I ain't even catholic. Rob

Yours' is that nice????? I'm on my way to confiscate the evidence!! I hope that "For Sale" sign is prior to your ownership. I'm down to eight glazed donuts per day from twelve just a few months ago. Progress is good, but I still can break that ice cream and "half & half" refreshment routine. Rob

I'm doing my B67 with bright red hubs and white or silver rims. That combination is just as "classic" as the green and silver you mention. Rob

"BAIL'EM OUT!!! ???? Hell, back in 1990, the Government seized the Mustang Ranch brothel in Nevada for tax evasion and, as required by law, tried to run it. They failed and it closed. Now, we are trusting the economy of our country, our banking system, our auto industry and possibly our health plans to the same nit-wits who couldn't make money running a whore house and selling whiskey?!" "What the Hell are we thinking?"

I've seen seveal of them, especially on the rear of minivans. Kinda funny to. Although these devices are employed, there are still a large instance of people backing into things! I do agree they are a useful tool but should not replace common sense and prudent judgement. Rob

My 78 RL has spokes on the drives. I suppose I should have been a littler clearer meaning the steer axle. Rob

Hi Herb, it was gas and really clean. I think it had just about 74,000 miles. Other than having a difficult time getting out of it's own way, was a nice car. Belonged to a customer of mines mom that passed on. If it had been a diesel turbo, I'd have bought it. Rob

Ahhaaa Dude!! The colors man....... Intense!!!!!

That is pretty neat but a little late. I sold the Rabbit convertible early last fall and moved the horse trailer to the back of the property last September, or October when the grass was still green. Scrap prices were way up at that time and I needed room to stack that Pete upon a couple others. Since ridding myself of them things, life is much better. Rob

It's only diesel that I have problems with....... Rob

I'm trying. Something I miss the most is getting to wash my own feet. My daughter absolutely refuses to help her old man out, and Momma is tiring of the task. Lacking care for the "Essence of Foot Stench", she soldiers on. Glad to hear "Faith" is getting attention she deserves. The hall of fame is a short jaunt for you and would be fun to participate in the parade. Come to think, I should probably start my A40 as it's been a few months in mothballs within the shop. Rob

Nice truck and the first "RL700" series I've seen on spokes. Rob

Now that I'm finally able to get back to work full time I've started collecting more parts to get my B67 back on the road. I took off work today and picked up the "S" cams my uncle annealed, welded up, then reground for me. These were then dropped at a heat treating place in Peoria. They are long obsolete parts and were very shot in the bearing surfaces. Looking new but soft, they should be "good as new" next week when I pick them up. I've had all new linings installed onto the aluminum shoes with new seals and wear rings ready to be installed on all corners. Also going with all new lug studs, nuts, wedges, hubcaps, and wheel spacers. Did not get the blaster scheduled for the drums and spiders as I actually forgot about it till too late this evening. Still having a time getting the correct seals for the "S" cams though. May need to run without as the old ones were virtually non existent. I also purchased a 36" length of cored SAE660 bearing bronze that new bushings will be made from for the brake anchor pins, and "S" cam supports front and rear. The actual "S" cam bushings are still available so I'll order those. I've already acquired type 24/24 chambers for the drives, and type 16 service chambers for the steer. Also ordered a rubber bushing set for the trunion rebuild today. Probably going to retain much of the original copper brake lines as there really is nothing wrong with it but will however run new plastic for spring brakes/valves and such. Next week I'll probably get new springs ordered for the steer axle. I've already purchased much of the rubber parts needed to continue the project, but have lost a lot of time attributed to injury this year for working on the trucks. Hopefully I can now get a couple hours in per night and still have this one ready to drive mid summer. I may haul the engine/trans out over the weekend but unsure at this point. The gantry crane is setup itching for work so we'll see. Don't think all this stuff I've spoken of is cheap, it is not. I've let go right at $1800.00 for the brake rebuilding, (so far) with none of it being labor. The heat treatment will be in addition and will bust the aforementioned amount. Then the blasting and parts for the engine etc...... No real end in sight but I like the truck.... Rob

That looks really nice. Hopefully you have a "tight"engine so it doesn't leak oil all over but that would not be my luck. Anxious to see photos of your progress. Rob