Rob

Glad to hear you're alright. Hopefully some things will return to normal shortly. I used to depend on Depends but not anymore. My ulcerating scars have healed, (although still tender) because I ain't bought no new Mack stuff as of late. I'm sure Momma is waiting to "open me up" again first chance she gets though. Rob

They will work but I've had better luck with the Autolite plugs of the same number in mine. The AC brand tends to be short lived due to fouling because my usage is interrmittent. The AutoLite brand plugs foul too, but last longer. If you use the truck a bit and get it up to temperature for hours on end, either set will last fine. Rob

I thought this entertaining: Rob

That could be a lot of it for sure. My truck is 35359, and was built in July of 1978 which is very late production for the model year. I do know all is original to the truck by the line setting ticket. The splash guards on this chassis resemble the type used on the ValueLiners that were yet newer. They are plastic and bolt to a tubular weldment on each side. These recess into the "bobbed" lower fender extensions of the hood when closed. My other RL is a 1974 with the vin of 19001 and has the flat, standard hood with splash guards mounted to the aluminum treadplate extensions with a bolted anti sail bracket. Photos of both trucks are attached and the spash guards on both can be seen. Both trucks have the dropped fenders style hood panel. My 77 R795 does not, nor has the clipped fender lowers with any type of splash guards incorporated. Herb posted the photos of the RS series brochure on the old board that was in color.

Hi Trent, I've seen several ValueLiner style 600 series trucks myself but never another 700 series. I like the looks of them also as they are different from the norm. Rob

This photo was posted on the old BMT board several years ago. How common was this hood on the R700 series trucks? My 1978 RL755LST has this style hood but I've never seen another myself personally. I have however seen one other photo of a medium blue early 80's R700 series with one. My hood is original to the truck with the serial number of the truck painted into it on the underside. I also have the turn signals that were commonplace on the later RW series which are also original to the truck. My air horns are however round in the bells. Thanks, Rob

Hi Mark, I tried but can only go back one year and no further. It has been a bit longer than that when it came to the shop and I posted progress. I dont' know if Barry has further archices available or not, but I'll ask. Rob

Man, I must be losing it. I started this battle in October of 2007. Guess that has been a little longer than 1.5 years. If I keep up this pace I'll be sitting in my wheelchair at an asylum gumming creamed corn in front of the tube. Rob

All axles get line pressure, (reservoir) when selected on high as I've checked with a gauge. I don't know anything about condition of the linings on the rear other than they all work and are adjusted properly, never had them apart but I suspect they are glazed/shot. They are very old from what I can see through the backing plates. I had the fronts relined cause they were down to the rivets. Rob

Hi Herb, my A40 has the same control and if it is set on anything but all the way down when the truck is empty, the front brakes are very agressive with new shoes and fresh machined drums on the steer. When loaded and driving like one is supposed to, it stops fine on low, but stepped up to medium, or high, is much more agressive. I can't lock the tandems, (loaded) in a panic stop, but the steer will with little effort when turned up. Rob

Your truck "outclassed" the others by far. Rob

Third time it's been listed. I do believe he wants to keep it. Rob

And if you liked that photo, check out my sister in law in her "patriotic suit". Really enjoys showing her "independence". Rob

Hi Mark, this is my third 700 series truck and it has an ENDT866 engine with a Mack TRDL107 transmission, with Rockwell SQHD rears. Nothing really wrong with the truck itself except that it has wedge brakes on the front and rear. They work perfect and were rebuilt just before I received the truck. The roof was rotted off of it from sitting under pine trees derelict for many years. This truck was a California truck all it's life and was a transfer dump unit. I've spoken with the original owner who used it in that capacity for many years. It was traded in on a different truck so really hasn't worked in a lot of years. Subsequent owners scrapped it in California, (on paper) without anything actually happening to the truck. My understanding is California offered a premium payment for getting the older "less efficient and heaven forbid, "dirty"" trucks off the roads. It was purchased by a gent in Minnesota with plans for a restoration but seven years later I found it via a friend. After my acquisition, the troubles started; California informed Illinois the truck was scrapped, Illinois wanted to issue a junking certificate rather than a title. After many photos, enlistment of outside sources for appaisal value, inspections by state police, and numerous other obstacles, they issued a title with the exception it could never be titled again in California. The effort will be worth the time now that the ordeal is finalized. I'll get back to it shortly. Gonna try to link back to the original postings when I first dragged the truck home. Rob

After one and a half years arguing back and forth with the Illinois Secretary of State bonded title division, I finally have a title for my 74 RL797LST. This is the truck I cut the roof from almost a year ago and was proceeding rather nicely until this ordeal was evident to be a drawn out affair. I then stopped work, backed the truck into a corner, removed the batteries and let it sit in place. Now maybe I can get it wrapped up. This one is just going to be an average repaint with no restoration type work taking place. Once I rebuild some of the inner roof supporting structure and put a new skin on, it can go outside as the truck is still complete. No real need in moving forward if one can't get the unit registered. Rob

I'll have to do a little research as this has me curious. As I mentioned I've never been around the four valve engines as they are too new for my level of experience. For a part to repeatedly fail tells of lubrication problems. I'm wondering if the lube oil passages are rifle drilled, or just a simple sleeve bearing setup. Be interesting to learn. Rob

I've never been around the four valve engines myself. I know the Stanadyne, (Roosa-Master) pumps could be rebuilt using the original plastic internals but the quality rebuilders would use stainless steel in it's place. They then offered a lifetime warranty on the rebuild. I can only assume the Bosch pumps would be similar in parts availability. The only time I've seen injection pumps chewed up internally, (sounds like yours is) can be attributed to a high moisture content to the fuel, and filthy abrasive oil. You mention brass and the only places bronze is used is in the supporting ends of the governor shaft, and sometimes the sliding rack assy through the pump body. Are you sure the brass is originating within the pump itself? There are a couple of other places that could be wearing, or chewing, and the engine oil pump supplies the injection pump with oil without being run through the oil filter first. You may need to look into the engine further. After the same part fails this many times it would seem time to explore. Rob

Hi, it is fine but on hold for now. I've got a lot of ground to make up since wrenching my back and the B-67 is first as I need something to drive. The Project R-12 will move forward shortly after the B-67 is rolling again. Thanks, Rob

A quick way to isolate if the governor is at fault is to elevate the front end on jack stands with front tires about a foot off the ground. If the engine hunts when level, and does not hunt with the front elevated. Have the governor rebuilt. You can also do this with the front wheels in a ditch or other depression. You need the have the truck out of it's normal orientation of operation. Rob

Thanks Ernie, I've seen the branding for years but never remembered to ask the quetion. Rob

I have some Goodyear tires that are 10.00XR20 and they are marked as "All Position Radial". I've seen steer, and drive tires before but have really never paid attention to this. These are a moderate aggresive tread design with a solid shoulder. Does this specification detract from one fit and function to satisfy both? It would seem the tire would be a compromise in some aspects but then again, car and lt. truck tires are the same front and rear. Rob

Got a good review from the doctor concerning my back and he will now remove me from "light duty", (like I've paid any attention) but it's legit that I can go back at it full steam. Decided to celebrate in the shop tonight so got out the skid steer, unloaded the gantry crane from my trailer and proceeded to set it up in the driveway. Now you'd think with a building the size of mine I would set it up inside right?? Well, not enough room cause of all the important possessions that must be kept out of weather. This gantry is rated at three tons and is 17'4" between the uprights. The span of the legs with steel caster wheels is 6.5 ft., and it's adjustable from 10'2" below beam, to 16'3" below beam. This will give me at least 12'6" at a mimimum under hook height. It is completely air powered in the hoist with manual operation for and aft, and left and right. I have a two ton Coffing hoist from my bridge crane that I never set up with a powered trolley if I don't care for this one. Gonna be nice lifting and moving some of this heavy shit around here without using the cherry picker, forklift, skid steer, boom truck, etc... It will be so much easier pulling/swapping engines around when there is nothing around the sides or front in the way. Left the camera at work so I'll post up some photos in the next couple of days. Rob

I don't know what retail pricing for the service costs. It's like Rowdy states and all about time, and travel mileage. These pneumatic over hydraulic breakers are slick and take about 30-45 seconds to break the beads. The hardest part is setting them up to clamp the rim and that takes about 15 seconds per unit. I had 10 10.00X22 rims to break down last year and after four tire guys wore their asses out on two of them, they got the hydraulics off a service truck. The other eight were off the rims in less time than the first two. Once the beads are broke, dismount and mount is not much of a problem. Rob

You can. However it will not hold up to the torque rise of a modern engine and the gear split is much too wide for normal usage. In an older engine the gear split is so wide the engine will not be in it's torque band with every upshift. I've seen both a triplex, and a quadraplex in different trucks with two speed rears and they worked fine. Rob

Take a digital camera with you and take several detailed photos. You will receive ample opinions and references. Rob