Rob

Although you knew it that boy's already smarter than me. I'd have had out the "Elmer's Glue", hammer, chisel, pliers, and baling wire to get that far. Looks like he's having fun and that's a great thing!

I can be mounted directly to the air compressor itself, or remote from it. If a remote installation follow the plastic lines from the air compressor to the governor.

Hi Glenn, thanks for jumping in; I don't have a dryer on this truck. Have one for it in the cabinet but too lazy to install I guess..... I have replaced the unloaders in the compressor head but it's been over a year. They were sticking routinely and the relief was popping at engine idle. That ceased immediately and this problem only presents itself at highway speeds now. Probably the unloaders again and I'll order another kit to service the head. I've not removed the belts or any ancillary drive parts from the equation yet; good tip and I'll follow up on it. Just really noticed it a few weeks ago and it's not consistent. The noise is just when bringing the engine up from low idle. I don't really hear it when driving due to cab noise. Not really a quiet truck at all as most of the sound insulator padding is deteriorated; especially on the firewall interior. The engine runs smooth and starts easily and seemingly never misses a beat. I'll pull the belts as they need changed from age anyway and they're at least a dozen years old. Thanks,

Chasing same thing?

You have the old "845" switch and electrically they are the same. Print off the illustration and reconfigure the routing as needed. You would be better served long term by eliminating the s/p altogether and replacing with a 39MT, or 40 MT series starter motor.

Recently my R-612 has started making a strange noise from the engine that is gaining in intensity. Engine starts and runs fine but noise I'm hearing is kinda like a couple of marbles in a tin can sort of like shaking a glass of ice water in your hand. Sometimes more pronounced, sometimes relatively quiet. Seems to be emanating from the rear of the engine and traveling through the sheet metal of the firewall/cowl of the cab. I took a sounding rod after it listening to both the drive coupling, and power steering pump drive with nothing abnormal noted. Easy to hear normal gear train noise but that's with any engine. Water pump, tip turbin, and turbocharger all sound good at low, and medium idle so kinda lost. The air compressor, (Midland EL-13111) has started to occasionally stop unloading at operating speed when driving. I'll hear the pressure relief in the wet tank popping at highway speed. I replaced the D2 governor with a known good shop spare and the problem is so intermittent, it didn't show up again for about a month then same thing again. I'm not sure if both problems are related or not? Regardless, I spoke with a gent at Rebuilder's Enterprises up in Bridgeview, IL yesterday and he tells me if I bring the air compressor in first thing on Monday morning, I can pick it back up fully rebuilt just after lunch so may do that. They also have remanned units on the shelf. I might send the power steering pump, (looks to be a Vicker's V-10 series) in at the same time to be resealed as there is a seepage leak although I expect that is worn hoses or sealing rings aged out. I was going to run new hoses anyway as the braiding is falling apart on the outer surface. I've used them for a vendor in the past on an old Midland compressor for my A-40 and they did a good job. Can't remember the numbers on it, (21 years ago) but it had external rocker type arms for the unloaders.

Received from a trucking buddy friend via cell phone last evening: Merry Christmas everybody! Hope I get enough coal in my stocking today to at least keep warm for a spell.

Many hard parts are for certain. Best not blow one up or going to be less $$$ to retrofit something. Monte's Equipment in Chicagoland still has a pretty good supply of water pumps, gaskets, and overhaul kits I'm told but I'm sure that is a limited availability type thing. They are getting to be like Hercules Motors parts however for bearings and such.

Thanks, Sad to hear that as a lot of frustration and work there. I've repaired Continental blocks in the past that were out of forklifts in both six and four cylinder variants. The coolant passage at the rear is a common place to crack as the castings are very thin in the area. Seen them cracked from both freezing, and overheating in the same spot. I knew this air end was good and the compressor was offered in both this engine, and a Detroit Diesel 4-53 series and have access to one of those if needed.

Same as I do Fred. Anytime I have a good electrical core it goes over to a rebuilder whom's been in business for almost 100 years.

Thanks. So far really liking it but again it needs a full functional checkout. I make no acceptance of performance degradation citing age on anything as I believe something was built to perform 100% till it's in the grave. I removed the radiator and sent it into the the shop for a new lower tank. They old school "rodded" the core as it was dirty and custom made the lower tank. Thought I had a photo but the lower was split from freezing. Core was fine: Sent the aftercooler in also at the same time for boiling: Continental B-427 engine which runs like a top with a good tuning, carb rebuild, electronic distributor: Lots easier to work on with the sheet metal removed: Had made a jig to lift off the hood which is 16ga. steel sheet and right at eight feet in length: All kinds of busted fasteners getting the sheet metal off too: \ Poor thing probably hasn't seen a day inside it's entire life till my acquistion.

Thanks. It is a 1962 built air compressor as is the B-673, so they should look good together. Hopefully we'll get through this "test" over the next few days and I can move forward with the project. I pulled all the aluminum nameplates off the machine which are embossed "Worthington, Blue Brute, Monorotor 250", and have sent them to a lady whom restores old signage to see what she can do with them. None damaged or pitted but covered in layers of paint. I also sent her a print of the color scheme originally used, so hopefully she'll dress them up quite nicely.

Thanks for the research guys. I'm going to follow up on it. it sounds as if a guy running under his own authority could go with alternatives. However if a company mandates the use of ELD as a requirement of pulling their freight, it seems there is only a single option? I was yakking with him last evening and he tells me his brother has ran across another 01 CX613 that was a "cousin" to his having the same original E7-427 and 10 speed. Both were originally "Ruan" lease trucks I understand. We long ago swapped the 10 speed for an RTLO-16718B along with/when installing the wet kit. If the electronic dash from the RB can be retrofitted into the 89 RW, (I think) dash, this may be a way to get ELD into the truck correctly. The RW currently has an E7-400, (completely manual) and Spicer 5&4 which would probably be replaced with an 18 speed Fuller. The former would be spoken for around here.....

Timmy, I can't say for certain but that is what I did before running them in this morning. Some of the bolts I did not reuse as they were pitted quite deep meaning about 1/2 through. I replaced them with new hardware. Many of the flat washers were also replaced as they were "dished" from over torquing sometime in their life. All of the hardware was sprayed with cold galvanizing compound prior to assembly to hopefully preclude rust. These panels come off for routine cleaning and filter service so I don't want the fasteners rusting in place. I had to drill and tap several broken ones when taking it apart. This will be painted Mack green with black fenders to match the B-673 when all done but before going much further I need a good functional checkout which it should get next week:

I agree with the running of an older truck. However the company is adamant that ELD has to be used from my understanding. The guy has a "gravy train" going and doesn't want to get away from that. He's looking to add another truck to his rapport and hopes to use this one.

Isn't the "red" print a "Neg" ground cabling diagram?

No disagreements from me Brian. I know they keep him busy but he has all sorts of trailers from flat, single drop, double drop, RGN, connestoga, and two sliding axle Landoll units. A lot of money and time has been spent on the RW and it really should be working rather than keeping his barn occupied. The RW needs paint, (which I will do) but it's not a hurry till a place to work it is found.

I can't answer that for certain. What I suggested is quite easy once you get set up for it.

With the brake shoes firmly contacting the brake drum(s), measure from the face of the brake spider where the brake can mounts up to, (the side the brake can mounts against) to the center of the used slack adjuster hole the clevis pin slides through. Ensure the brake shoes are firmly pressed against the brake drums, and record this measurement. With this measurement you install the clevis onto the new brake can's pushrod, run it down to the proper measured length recorded, (mating surface of brake can to center of clevis eyes) mark the rod, remove the clevis, add one inch length to you mark, and cut the rod off. When you set the clevis to the same length as measured, the brake can is at it's maximum stroke. You don't want this on the trailer so it's offset by the one inch additional length. Then assemble. It's a bit easier if you have a slack adjuster stroke wrench, but it can be done by hand also. That's kinda the way I've done it in the past but others may have additional ideas.

I can't answer directly but don't think so to an app. The company installs the ELD and retains ownership of the unit. Not too difficult to measure pulse count for distance as that is a relatively fixed value. From what I've read the ELD doesn't sense vehicle movement until 5mph. Don't know if anything like what I'm looking to do can be incorporated as everything is easily "slewed" from actual readings. If someone marketed a kit there would probably be all kinds of restrictions and rules with resulting penalties for breaking those rules attached. One guy is currently running a 2001 CX with them and wants to get his 89 RW running to replace the CX. The company he's leased to won't allow the truck to operate with their cargo citing no ELD and inflexible in the rules. He's gone as far as purchased a wrecked RB cab, (which is electronic) and thinking of pulling his E7-427 and install into the RW-713 to run it which is alright to do. The old CX is getting worn from the miles and the RW is really quite nice.

I've never been around them myself but a couple folks are wanting to run their older trucks with a company that requires ELD without exception. Installing sensors and interfacing them is really not a big problem, but what they need to output into, is an unknown to me. I've only been told the ELD manufacturer supplies a computer assembly that is cabled into the trucks ECM and that's about it. I would need to generate these inputs to the ELD system via discreet components at the proper levels and timing to make it work as there is no ECM.

I've been looking around the internet without success as of yet. If I knew what the needed inputs were I'm pretty certain I could build something to interface the truck to the computer module. Never have been around them, (ELD) myself.

Does anyone produce a box that has outputs for an ELD system? Dakota Digital does not. Thanks,

Going to reinstall the end sheet metal panels back onto my air compressor and the hardware is pretty crusty. Just prior to going into the basket: Into the basket: 15 minutes later: Lots nicer to not need to fight the rust and dirt that accumulates on 58 year old hardware. While these were being blasted I ran a tap through all the holes these bolts will go into so should zip right together. Compressor is going a few miles down the road next week to depaint a truck/tractor frame and steel demolition trailer. It should get a good workout running two men with each requiring about 100cfm.

Had the same problem with Autozone electric components not lasting and the installer is the one whom bears the brunt of the customer's anger. How is Road Choice when it comes to warranty labor replacement? Autozone wanted to pay less than 1/2 of retail so I mandated not to use them as a vendor. Went almost exclusively to Carquest at that time.