Rob

Yes the perimeter moulding. All of them I have are a stamped metal piece. I've never seen them plastic as yours must be to allow a chunk to be missing. They should be readily available new, or used. Remove the screws that retain the aluminum escrutcheon plate, then remove the screws from the perimeter moulding. These screws will be set into a nylon nut that is recessed into the fiberglass the hood is constructed from. I would lock onto the nylon from the back side with a pair of vise grip pliers as the corroded screws will not want to back out readily based on past experience. Now of course no one else has these problems, just me. The crack to the passenger side of the hinge area looks to be from impact and not corrosion/rot. It is a stress crack from the fender/hood being bumped which probably broke the moulding at the same time but was not severe enough to take the fender off the truck, or possibly fracture the structure further back. Rob

Both of the 6+1 Spicer transmissions I had were overdrive. I ordered them both new, but don't recall it being a problem or anything special. Most of the large block gas engines produced by Ford, GM, Chrysler and such had integral flywheel housing mounts cast into the block like a car does. This was however not always the case. Many of the same engines were supplied with corporate to SAE adapters to allow for other transmission installations such as Fuller, Spicer, etc. using the SAE bolt up pattern. I don't know about input shafts to these transmissions, and clutch discs used in the applications as they could be different that the common setup as this would be sort of an adaptation and not really standard issue. Rob

You're gonna have a tough time to fit a TR-72 series Mack trans behind that engine as all of them have an SAE #1 flywheel housing size. You mentioned that the BD-208 IH engine, and the 5.9 had the same "block size", (I assume you mean close physically) and the flywheel housing sizes are similar, (by assumption). I've had a couple of those gassers and they were an SAE #2 housing size which is much smaller than a TR-72 series by near a couple of inches, with less, and smaller capscrews for retention. You can obtain an SAE #1 flywheel housing for the engine but it will not be cheap, or readily available. The suggestion of replacing the rear axle is the most beneficial way to obtain what you propose to do. IH in the early days had spoke type wheels that were definately their own and wanting to retain them for the "look" is admirable but probably not feasible and be able to contain costs. I would look at part numbers in drive axle service shops as there is a lot of information available and you may be able to swap your hubs onto a later axle assembly and have the best of all both worlds with a later axle and your old hubs. If it were me I'd probably go with a 6+1 Spicer trans that was readily available in medium duty International trucks through the 90's. If possible I would get an iron cased one as the aluminum cases had some issues and if repaired corectly were no problems afterward. Plenty of gear reduction in that trans with overdrive too. This of course is my opinion but I had a couple and really liked them behind Dt-466 engines. Rob

You are speaking of what is referred to as an escrutcheon moulding if I understand correctly. It is the aluminum piece and on the left side of the truck a lot of trucks had the block heater receptacle access mounted through this panel. If you have stress cracks, (very common) around the hinge area don't just slap resin and matt in there and call it done because you will do it again!! Most times the steel reinforcement is corroded and this coupled with constant pounding/vibration starts the breakage. If you will send photos of the affected area(s), I will give you an idea of how I would repair it. It really is not difficult unless the damage is extreme, and can be time consuming but an aftermarket hood can bust $1500.00 really quick before labor or paint is involved. Rob

Always glad to teach. Rob

I have the image in original format, (I designed it myself), in .pdf format, .ai format, .gif format and just about everything else under the sun should you need it. If you'd have asked earlier, it would have been made available. I've already asked Nikki and she is not certain of all the details. Rob

I'm finally down to the last customer's car in the shop and am making plans to get the restorations started on mine, and a couple other folk's Mack trucks. I'm not much of a computer person and would like to know what is involved in having a website set up. When my old site was set up, (www.autoaffair.com) it just went to an "coming soon" banner with my corporate logo, (it is still active). I still have the domain name and would like to work with it, but the original ISP is defunct and has been sold off. What do I need to do at this point to use this name for a viable website? Thanks, Rob

Hi Brian and welcome to the site. That sure is a nice looking B-81 but I can't afford it. Thanks for your support to the hobby. Rob

Stay away from Dawson Truck Parts vendored hoods and bumpers. If you can afford it go with a "Jones Performance" hood if you cannot find a good used original. They will fit with little effort for cleanup. The other brand will have you fighting for hours to acheive a half-assed alignment. I've fought that vendor many times as they are the least expensive several insurance companies in this area have found. Always a guaranteed four to six hour supplemental add order to get paid fairly. The quality of their product mimics the pricing. The headlamp trim/recess panels have always been stamped metal to the best of my knowledge. There are also three different sizes/styles. I don't have any for the "600" series trucks myself, but they should be easy to acquire. Rob

I had four GM 3/4, and one ton trucks with the Eaton mfg. "limited slip" type unit which operated in much the same way. It was completely conventional internally with the exception of having a spring loaded "cam over" assembly that grabbed the not spinning wheel to make it turn. Most were brutal in engagement as one wheel needed to be spinning before the other would grab. They were also very hard on clutch plates behind the side gears. I replaced all with Detroit Locker "No-Spin" units which held up very well without a single failure. If you need the absolute enhancement of a traction unit, this is the way to go. Rob

Funny; That's exactly what I was thinking to. Rob

Figgered so. Nice to meet you Pete. My name is Rob. Rob

They say exercise is good for you. A walk home when the Pete is busted, (again) will get the heart rate up, being benficial to health. Here is another venue: rockanddirt.com. Rob

Trucktrader.com, Truckertotrucker.com, traderonline.com are a few. Rob

Never questioned, but yelled at over the pa to go around the scales when I was pulling my mobile home with an R190. Rob

PA is a different story though, at least on trailer wheel bearings!! Rob

Now keep in mind that I'm in Cat's home stomping ground but JCB has not been able to get a foothold in the area. I've talked with many operators that have ran them all and they say Cat is the best and will outlast most of the european and japanese machines by at least twice. I know that when I went to purchase a used backhoe I looked at a 410B John Deere, a 580E Case, a comparable JCB, (214, I think) and a 416B Cat, all used with around 4500 hours on each. These were all private owned machines. The JCB machine was cleaner physically than any of the others but was plain and simple "worn out". None of the tractors had ever ran a breaker, and only the Case had been welded upon. The engine in the JCB was Perkins, which Cat now owns. The Case machine was purchased due to rapid parts availability and pricing. The Cat stuff was exhorbitant, (as usual), the JCB parts were not only a "wait till we get em" type arrangment, but the cost was above exhorbitant and there is only one dealer within about a hundred miles. The Deere parts were about on par with the Case machine, but the dealer's service department is not quite as friendly as the Case dealership. When I need help, or a special tool for repairs I could "borrow" it. I had purchased my skid steer from them also. I've heard their excavators are about the same as their backhoes but I have no experience with them. I've seen a lot of new ones in municipal use but rarely see an older one except on farms. No help I know but typical of myself, I know nothing. Rob

You could also run rims with a greater offset than standard to move the tires inboard. I've seen the conversion you speak of and the tires actually protrude just about 1/2" from the wheel arches. Does not look right to me but I didn't own the truck so no reason to be critical. Rob

I wasn't around with Dexron was introduced but have always ran Dexron II, and Dexron III in my power steering systems without problems. I also use it in new vehicles at a 36,000 mile drain interval of the reservoir along with all other fluids. Rob

My thoughts exactly. Rob

I can side with slow on these trucks. I would however probably stay with a Mack engine as I am much more familiar. They can also be had at much less expense. That is just my opinion as I know virtually nothing more about Cummins engines. I also favor a Mack transmission and would probably not change the duplex out because I like mine. I'll be interested in your old parts when available as they would be used in another restoration, (I don't sell anything myself). Rob

It looks like a Renault V8 by the rocker covers, but I'm not sure. Rob

I'd hate to see it scrapped too but I don't think you would realize $180.00 ton in today's marketplace. Just last week the commodities market was going at about 1/2 that. The truck would be nice for my ongoing collection also, but I'm afraid Momma would chop out my hemorhoids with a meat cleaver if I brought it home. Rob

Ok, I will. You're Crazy!!, (I'd do the same though). Don't you feel better now? Glad to see you make use of it rather than move it down the road. Rob

sounds like my kind of girl: third iteration of sloppy seconds. Rob