Rob

Yes, I am still looking. The listing on that one is marked as "sold", and thanks for thinking of me. Rob

I have seen it done but did not take any measurements. I know some of the cab mounts were fabricated and not original to either a B, or R model truck. Rob

If you are jeopardizing any warrenty, then no, I would not. Otherwise, sure. Never cared for EGR in the first place and it seems to be unneeded, and troublesome. Rob

Practice the following line: "Would you like fries with that"? Could be the start of your economic upswing. Rob

Hi Larry, I'm working at a new radar site construction and there is no internet access, and have no camera software on this new hard drive so can't download photos. I've taken plenty of photos to show what I've been/going through. The king pins are tight in this truck as are all steering parts with the exception of the steering gear itself. It is nice on center but has play as you go either way of center. It kind of rattles through the column in a turn on uneven road, or gravel. Straight away, there is no looseness. I ordered a blind hole bushing puller as I don't have one and these are too tight to drive out with a punch and hammer without crushing. Probably get back to this project over the weekend as the brake blocks for the rears won't be done until Friday. I went with a friction material listed as "FE" in grade, (bet that sounds familiar). No luck on an inexpensive pickup, yet. So far most in the size needed are a little over a hundred bucks. Got another place to try if I can remember during the day hours, (just wrote myself a note). Rob

The floormats from PAI industries are blank and fit as well as the OEM Mack mats in that application. Rob

Well, I'm to the point of awaiting parts now. All hubs are off and will have the seals replaced because of age. All are "Stemco" brand seals, all bearings are "Timken". I've taken the rt. front wheel assembly apart with the "S" cam and bushing holder removed to size up for parts. Also took the one leaking rear completely apart for the same reason. All the wedges for the rear tires are going to be replaced because the area that is supposed to be flat for the nuts to bear against are concave and the retention nuts are "splayed" out from the torque. Amazingly all the brake shoes are in nice shape with the exception of the saturated set. I've already ordered all new nuts and studs for the front wheels so all will be new when the truck is put back together. I've looked at the studs in the rear and really don't see any problems with them so they will stay. The drums all look good with virtually no ridge and minimal heat cracking. I would not deem them unsafe for use or I'd replace them. I do plan to separate the spiders from the drums and have all blasted clean. The truck was built all green including the frame. The wheels however were white, and the rotating assemblies were red. This is an assumption on the wheels but a couple are date stamped 1962 which is the year of the truck. Three of the wheels are the three piece, and the balance of seven are the two piece type. I don't plan to reuse the three piece ones as they are hard to get worked with anymore. I've never had any problems myself but don't really change tires any longer unless there is no way around it. Last week I replaced the pancakes in the front steer axle chambers as one was blown. When I removed the chambers yesterday I noticed the one on the rt. side was rusted through by where the actuator rod protrudes through. I didn't see this when I changed the diaphram on the truck or I'd have replaced both then. I have new chambers in the shop so not really a problem. Something I noticed on this truck is everything is bronze bushed, even the holes in the slack adjusters. Also the slack adjusters have a bolt to retain them to the S cam shafts. Keep in mind that I have very limited experience in the mechanical thing but up to now all I've seen have been retained by a snap ring. Everything is so buried in mud/grease under this truck every turn is a new discovery. I also started douching everything down with "Blaster" to work on the fasteners. I will most likely have to use a torch to warm fastener to remove the sheet metal but this will get a little head start on the process. I've sworn to myself that I won't take this one apart and plan to stick with this analogy but I can clean the truck so much more effectively with the front sheet metal removed I really so no other option. Besides I will be able to replace all the old pressure lines with easier access. Last year for Christmas Momma had got me a slack puller, clevis pin press, small u joint puller for the steering columns, cap installer for the u joints, and the Christmas before that a u joint puller for the driveline joints. All have been used and it sure is a blessing to have the right tools not to mention the ease of use!! Just before Thanksgiving I purchased wheel bearing sockets so almost everything I need is now in the tool box. Next item to purchase is a seal driver set for this big stuff. My current set only goes to about 3" and is not large enough. This truck has front oil hubs on it and I wouldn't mind going back to grease packed if I could find the original style caps with the "Mack" script in them. A couple of other trucks I have have these and I like the looks of them. This truck has an FA-517 steer axle and from what I've read it's a 9500# rating. It seems to be a little narrower than the FA-505 series axles that are under two of my B61 series trucks and the SAI is a little different. I suppose this is because of the short wheelbase that measures right at 150 inches to the center of the trunion. Forgot to mention that is getting rebushed also while it's apart. I also keep compiling a list of tools I need to add to the shops inventory. More jack stands, brake drum handler, tire dolly, (I'm lazy), and several other small things. The list continues to grow....... At least I'm having fun as I go broke. Rob

We can still get it also if we have the proper equipment, (we don't). I liked it in the gallon jugs cause a spray bottle was great. I never had any problems with skin contact other than drawing the oil right out of you. I typically sprayed electronic parts, scrubbed with an acid brush, then flooded the surface to remove soldering, or copper sulfate sludge when repairing multi layer circuit cards cause it washed clean with out trails. I typically use gloves also along with a stick mounted circulator fan to push fresh air into the area and fumes away. Rob

Since the mutt has such a lack of patience, I'd hitch his ass up to a sled and mush him down to the farm store to get a larger shovel. Next time he'll learn to keep his trap shut. Rob

Certainly hope it's just a calibration issue but I've seen popoff pressure in the nozzels be problematic too. An inline Mack engine should start very well down to about 25 degrees without heat applied. None of mine will crank 10 seconds before popping off at that temp. I'm assuming you have good batteries with an adequate cranking speed as that all applies too. Rob

Hi there, late or retarded injection timing will do that as will low compression and/or injection pressure. I would pull the pump and injectors and send them in for calibration. The cost on having pumps rebuilt is about $200.00 per hole, and about $60.00 per injector. I had this done about six months ago on an E6-350 engine I've slated for a B61. Rob

Hi Neil, I'm not really sure what was in mine either. Funny how much stuff gets washed in those...... Rob

Naw, I couldn't butcher a B model like that. Thanks for the thought. Rob

Daughter wants my power steering unit and a four spoke wood wheel that is 16" diameter. Don't know if I can let the wood wheel pass, but the p/s, I'm alright with. Something about a modern wheel in a B model just doesn't seem right to me. May see if I can "cut down" a 22" wheel and have a new ring rolled to the 16" diameter. With this truck I can't underhand turn the steering wheel. Using the "push, pull" method doesn't work too well for me with the drag and friction burn on my gut from the wheel rim, (momma don't much like the grease marks from the wheel neither) so have to do something else. A B-61 cab is tight, but not uncomfortable and managable, this one really isn't for me. Rob

Morning Herb, I went down and got a fresh 55 of red diesel this morning and dumped it in. I pumped the washer dry of the Stoddard Solvent into a barrel and will drop it by a guy's place that has a distiller. A 55 gallon drum will yield about 46-48 gallons in return clean product. I didn't totally clean out the sludge in the bottom but there was at least three inches buildup. Did find a long lost scaper too. While the tank was empty I removed the manifold and piping to rebuild it for the agitation. This is nothing more than a manifold with three pipes with little holes for air to blast through. The bubbles did do a good job of cleaning and breaking up dirt/grease on parts and they flowed over the immersed parts. I also have a little explosion proof Dayton gearmotor that I used for raising and lowering a dip basket that worked well too. When the immersion heater ceased to function several years ago, I started changing solvents to find something that worked acceptably well and settled on Stoddard. I always liked it because of no film. I would typically wash parts on a follow up with the steam cleaner if they were to be painted. Rob

VOTERS SAID YES AT OBAMA'S ELECTION BUT HIS LIES HAVE SPREAD LIKE A VIRAL INFECTION THE TEA PARTY'S SPOKEN, HIS SPELL IS NOW BROKEN SO ITS TIME FOR OBAMAS LEGAL EJECTION

I agree. Sorta like a favorite T shirt. Can't be me. Rob

Through the 80's we used trich for a lot of cleaning chores. It is very good but will literally suck the air out of your lungs if working over it, or in a confined space. While I was in the military there was a marine killed when he was cleaning the engine bay of a Harrier jump jet while the engine was out. It was banned shortly afterward. When I first went to work in the federal service we could still get it to clean circuit cards and clean up after repairs, but not anymore. Been banned for us for almost 20 years now. Acetone is too harsh to use in a parts washer where your hands will touch the parts. Your soft tissues will split from lack of oil in the skin after about 10 minutes of exposure. My hyde is as tough as an aligator in most places but acetone, mek, and various other solvents used in the body shop will put the pains to an old man like me. Acetone evaporates pretty quickly without leaving a film also, and would be great except on rubber parts. You'll get one hell of a buzz sniffing acetone too if working above it. My parts washer has an air powered agitator and heater, neither of which is hooked up. When the heater went bad I used the circulator pump for other purposes but with these old trucks, I'm thinking of getting it going again. I would like to have a nice aqueous washer but don't have the room right now. Rob

Herb and I have been down this avenue prior on my Project R-12. He helped/coached me redoing the front cams, bushings, seals, wear rings and such on the steer axle. I've still to do the rears, but have decided to concentrate on one project at a time to get something finished. This B67 is very close to road worthy so I'm going with it pronto. Come hell or high water I'm going to some truck shows this year driving this truck!! Sad part is my belly won't stay out of the steering wheel so my daughter has layed "Dibs" on it when completed. Rob

I agree that mineral spirits does work well but it is not as good as "Stoddard". It is however about $2.50 a gallon less expensive and does not evaporate nearly as fast as naptha does. In reality that is probably what I'll go back to as it does not swell rubber parts nearly as fast as some other solvents. Both naptha, and mineral spirits do evaporate fairly quickly and film free. Thanks, Rob

Hi Garth, I'd tried that once and it really doesn't work that well at cutting oil oil and such. Gasoline is much better. Tree huggers can kiss my ass. Rob

You guys that work in truck shops; What kind of solvent is used these days? I'm using "Stoddard Solvent" and have for years. This stuff is getting unaffordable as it is over $9.00 per gallon and my washer uses 53 gallons. Most places around here use Safety Kleen and are on some kind of contract but I'm not interested in that as it isn't used very much. I've used naptha, and xylol in the past and it works well, but the evaporation rate is unacceptable even with the lid closed. Suggestions? Thanks, Rob

Not familiar with excavators except Caterpillar. Post a photo please. Don't even know who built yours but congratulations and hope you have work for it. Rob

Made a little further progress if you want to call it that. After removing the rt. front drum I have found the shoes to not be very old. The oil hubs were not leaking and the front seals are Stemco. The original seal wear surface has a groove worn into it so I'll put a sleeve on it also. There is a bit of play in the cams and bushings so I'll replace them while it is apart. The front shoe pivot pin was frozen to the shoe, but after moving it back and forth a few times with "blaster" applied, the shoe walked off of the anchor pin. I couldn't knock the bronze bushings from the cam tube so I took it off the truck and will press them out after cleanup. The cam will be replaced if available as there is about .025 wear on the front surface. By grabbing the S part itself, I can move it up and down about 1/16th inch. I don't know what a tolerance is but I know the cam and bearings have wear. The front rear had a wear sleeve on the sealing surface and I had a hell of a time getting it off. It was also Stemco. I called the parts store and the seal in this drum was obsoleted in 1975, so it appears this has not been apart for quite some time. There are quite a few supercessions since these were common part numbers. There is also some play in the cams here also. It is not apart far enough to ascertain all bad parts but I'm relatively sure the same will happen as the front. The bearings all looked very good so there is no real need to replace them. They are all Timken. The front hub was something like I'd never seen before. There was a clamp on the threads with two bolts, one a pinch bolt that was safety wired to prevent it backing off, and one bolt that engaged a lock ring with holes in it. A lot more cumbersome to work with than the double nut and cotter pin setup in use now. I also got the balance of the tires swapped over to Yella Dog so it can go back outside. The other wheels are dry and I'll get them apart tomorrow morning so parts can be ordered and acquired during the next week. Going to be working out of town next week and home in the evenings so don't know how much will get done. I also noticed several of the brackets that bolt through the frame and mount the 5th wheel tracks are cracked, and broken. The 5th wheel is a Fontaine mechanical slide unit and it will be removed and the brackets repaired/replaced. Also the rear mount that supports the cab is broken on the left side. It is simply a piece of angle steel that is bolted to both a crossbar with the cab mount, and through the frame rail. Going to need to replace the solvent in the parts washer. I can't remember what brand it is but there is some age on it now. There is probably three inches of sludge in the bottom of the tank and it is not cutting as it used to. Need to get the agitator rigged back up. The complete rear drum and spoke are soaking now. Rob

They will fit on the rear rears too. I bought a box of "Anchor" brand chambers from a vendor in Chicago along with having the air compressor rebuilt for safe measure and passing a little oil. I have several "Sealco" quick release valves purchased in bulk and will see if there is enough hardware to make it all work. Also have a fresh TP-2 valve to replace the leaker. Still needing to look into tires so thanks for the relay. Rob