Rob

Good morning Herb, I haven't got it apart far enough yet to tell about the cams. As per your instructions last time on the R795 all this will be looked at and replaced if needed. I won't half ass this repair. Mutual wheel vendors CR seals and that is what will go into it. I'll get new wear sleeves also. At the same time I'm replacing the type "20" rotochambers with type "24" spring brakes on the front drive, and type "24" service chambers on the rear rear. If it is better to install the spring brakes on the rear rear let me know. I installed new pancakes in the front chambers last week before taking her out for a drive. I will probably have all six hubs apart this afternoon and get the needed parts ordered on Monday. I brought ole "Yella Dog" in Thursday night and removed all the good tires, (80%) and replaced with marginal spares, and originals from the B67 as they come off. If memory serves, the bushing kits for the "S" cams were only about $15.00 per axle so I"ll prolly just put new ones in for safe measure. That way I can evaluate the cams themselves also and not worry about breaking grease seals. Thanks, Rob

Hi there, I cease working on customers cars at 8:00pm sharp unless something is on the verge of being finished. There is always another day. I usually work to 11:30pm on my own stuff, books, (ughh), or internet, before leaving for the night. I only sleep 5.5 hours per night and have for many years, get up and do it again. I pulled the front tires on Thursday night, ordered the studs and nuts on Friday, tried to pull the hub windows on Friday afternoon, and pulled the brake/hub assembly apart Friday evening. Seldom do I perform administrative functions on Friday. This truck does not have the dust covers on the rears, the shoes are open and exposed. It is obvious this truck was operated many years with a seal leaking from the accumulated dirt and grime buildup mentioned earlier. I dumped everything into the parts washer to soak overnight so hopefully they will clean up easily. The bottom brake shoe is getting thin so will have them relined when apart. I know this has the potential to be expensive but my daughter is expressing serious interest in the truck so going to do it right, (like there is any other way)...... I have a little pump and tank assembly rigged up that could be used to cycle diesel fuel through the fill and drain plugs to flush the innards of everything. I did not notice any foul smell or water in either of the rears, or transmission when drained. The drain oil did not have the smell of GL-5 either so I suspect it may have been Gl-4 due to age. The more I work with this truck, the more I find that was neglected and passed over referencing maintenance/upkeep. I see things done to get by and keep it working. I suppose this is normal and certainly mean no disrespect. You think it would take what I've described two days at a dealer? I think with the exception of the cleaning described, I've only got about four hours wrapped so far. My son refers to me as "a machine" in the shop, but having the correct tools to work on this stuff is a great asset. I'm not a mechanic but am very mechanically minded. I learn as I go and tend to remember well except when it comes to bashing my head....... Rob

Last evening after getting where I wanted to be with the shop workload I decided to pull the front tires on the B67. Well, all six studs unscrewed out of the spokes after the nuts jammed in the threads on the rt. wheel. Moving over to the lt. side wheel, all six nuts come off the studs alright, but four of the six studs are bent. I can't have none of this so I set up a dial indicator on the floor mounted magnetically to a 3/8ths plate and clean off all the mating surfaces the wheel butts up to to see if I have a bent spider. All runout is less than .020 so that is probably good enough. I looked for evidence of wheel slippage or spinning and can find none. Arriving at the parts store this afternoon they don't have the proper style nuts this truck takes, (convex shape) for the 5/8ths stud thread. Oh well, no real hurry cause I've got other things to do. All the wedges looked good without any bending to take note of. Now that I've got a few days before the nuts will arrive I'll get a look at the brakes and hardware. After a couple of minutes with the hand impact, and a couple busted insert bits to remove the Stemco hub windows, I call the parts house to order me two new hubcaps. Once the front hubs are off I'll have them blasted and paint them red, or black, (still undecided). At this point and fairly disgusted, along with the front axle on jack stands, I decided to move to the rt. rear front drive axle to address a leaking hub seal. After removing the tires and spacer, really didn't have any problem getting the axle shaft freed up with a 13 pound slide hammer to pull on the perimeter between the retention studs. Grabbing my brand new 4.125" socket for the hub locknuts and 3/4" ratchet, (man it's nice to have the right tools) I remove the hardware simulating that I know what I'm doing. After grabbing one of my floor jacks to support the hub spider and drum, the assembly rolls right off the spindle, balanced well on the jack. Upon gazing into the area containing the shoes I cannot believe how much mud, grease, grime, mouse nest, and oil is in there. After nearly 20 minutes of chiseling off the grease and gunk, I was able to figger out how to get the shoes off the mounting spider, (first time I've ever done this). There must have been three to four pounds of buildup inside the braking area. I've never seen anything like that before. I did snap a couple photos but can't download them onto this computer yet. I then threw all the removed parts into the parts washer for a good soak. I'm replacing the saturated shoes that were dripping and may all of them if needed. I plan to pull all the wheels to ensure the brakes are servicable, and replace all the seals. Have already drained the trans, and both rears, so waiting to put things back together before refilling. Referencing this truck sat for so many years, should I flush out the trans and rear end cases before refilling? Not a real problem to use diesel fuel or some other solvent at this point. I'll have the truck on six stands tomorrow morning. The right front rear drive had three different type of wedges holding the rim on the truck so they will all match when finished too. Should we get a moderate warm up to the temperature, the steam cleaner is going to have a heyday on this truck! Really should clean out my inside wash bay but it is loaded with parts. Thanks for listening. Rob

Unless the newer style rears are different I had to use "jack bolts" to remove the seal carrier on my R795 with Mack rears. There are two threaded holes opposite one another and once you had the yoke off of it's splines, and the perimeter bolts out of the seal carrier, you threaded the jack bolts into the holes and evenly tightened them forcing the seal carrier out of the housing. Not hard to do and I pulled the carrier back in with a little longer at first bolts, then finished and torqued it down with the originals. I'd get the speedi sleeve and seal regardless. Seems like there is always wear and for the couple bucks extra it's just not worth the labor to do it again. Rob

Thanks FJH. I have a PAI kit that does not have liners and wondered why that could be. Stands to reason you would open up the block, then order liners after you know what you have. This is much the same as you do with matching a bore to a piston size. I've always had a block bored, and honed after having the pistons on gasoline engines. Thanks again. Rob

On an E6 series Mack engine during rebuild, does one have the block honed and thicker sidewall liners installed if there is a problem? If this were the case, then liners must be available separately and purchased as needed, per cylinder for sizing? I would assume the piston bore would remain constant, but liner height would be adjusted with shims? I've never had anything like this done before but kinda wondered. Thanks, Rob

Yeah well I get confused when more than one wire is involved. Rob

Those Ranger style trucks are a good idea fitting a niche market. They however don't like to perform work other than the occasional grocery run. Power really falls off quickly when any kind of load is added such as a trailer with half a ton on it. I've had a couple rebuilt wrecks around here that were used until sold for parts runs and such. I liked them for commuter duty. Rob

Tonight I was tracing out my oil line for the dash guage that has not worked. I've thought is was not hooked up because there is absolutely no deflection to the needle when the engine is started. Turns out I was looking on the right side of the engine down by the auxilary shaft where the natural aspirated engines are tapped into an oil gallery. This engine is tapped into the oil pressure regulator right beside the oil line that feeds the turbocharger center bearing. Anyways, the oil pressure regulator was loose on the side of the engine. I was able to remove both bottom retaining bolts by finger pressure. The line for the oil pressure guage is connected, but I'm wondering with this regulator being loose on the block if the pressure was bypassing the feed line for the guage? I've not started the engine cause didn't want to fill the shop with smoke due to work in progress on wrecked cars. I know the engine has to be oiling itself as it's ran several hours without knocking. Thanks, Rob

Does anybody know when the B model switched from the white frosted glass lenses for the marker lamps to the plastic ones? My 64 B61 has remnants of plastic lenses and all the other trucks have the glass ones. Also when was the shutter style changed? Thanks, Rob

That's actually pretty neat, and functional. I've seen similar with an older Chevy pickup. Don't know if I'd do that to an antique car, but would rather use the parts as a donor for a restoration. Of course this could vary if the owner was willing to expend the funds to do the job. Given your love for the grille, I'd help you do it should you be serious. Rob

I've also noticed that every post seen of your B model does not have the front emblem on the grille shell. Do you not have one? I do have an extra "Volvo" emblem that is a mate to the one I posted should you need it. Rob

Satisfaction with a product or service is a very good reccomendation to any vendor. I have a couple radiators that are needing work so if you will relay the contact information, I'll speak with the gent. Rob

It could sure as hell hurry up and get here and I'd have no complaints. I heat my building so winterizing wasn't really necessary, but I may need the room this truck occupies for something else that needs to come home...... Rob

I need to get an oil pressure guage working before I set out on a maiden voyage. All systems look good and seem to operate fine but the oil pressure guage will not indicate. Citing the oil and water problems I've experienced with this truck, along with old oil supply lines, there is a distinct possibility of losing the engine should it cease to oil before it would be noticed. I've not had time to get them replaced yet. I did however winterize the truck after checking both the water, and oil and finding no further contamination. Hope to get back to it within the next few days. Rob

And an alcoholic can not be rehabilitated if they don't realize there is a problem. Rob

Most any automotive paint reseller will have the chip code for the Mack beige on file and can readily mix your needed quantity. Like Phil stated some will be able to package it in a spray can if that is your requirements but it will be very expensive purchased that way. Rob

Now you got me really wondering about your mental stability/capacity. Rob

With the exception of car dealers, everybody deserves the benefit of the doubt. Prior posts seem to indicate the truck was severely misrepresented and it would be very difficult to look back as I made my exit. Rob

I'm already condemned. Now you, "the jury is out", but it don't look good. Rob

Yep, keeping tradition alive. Rob

I've done healed up. I went to the farm store and bought replacements too. Normally people hang them from the trailer hitch, but they fit me just fine and don't itch. Must be hypoalergenic in manufacturing. Rob

These showed up in the mail on Saturday. Also picked up a blower motor for the heater on Saturday but haven't had time to install it yet. All known problems to this point have been rectified so gonna go for a spin tonight. Rob

For you guys that are uncomfortable in the "manhood" dept. I seen this on a dept. store shelf. Did not read the instructions but assume you would rub it on and wait for results? Rob

The photos posted looked as if they were promotional flyer photos rather than actual of the truck you were prosectively purchasing. Glad you found out the lowdown before the cash outlay. Rob