Rob

Well Damn. Don't know if I'll ever fit in with you honest sons a bitches. I'm always one in the shadows with the dagger watching your back. "Two for me, none for you" is my motto. Reading these last few posts and outward displays of honesty and integrity just makes me want to cry. Believe that shit? Not hardly. We all have our good points, and bad. Don't know anybody that is an exception to the basic rules. People here in this little town thought the minister at one of the churches was a very good person close to god, until he was caught screwing the choir leader when they were both married to others. We've all done good things and bad things. Part of life in general. Don't brag on the good unless you're willing to even the storyline. Only one person I've ever heard was perfect, and they nailed his ass to a cross for being that way. Rob

Does a shutterstat regulate air pressure to the shutters on a B model, or is it just an on/off switch and purge valve? Sneaked a few minutes in to work on the B67 tonight and this thing does not seem to put full reservoir pressure to the shutter line. I can close them by hand pressure but there is not enough air pressure in the line to actuate them. A shop air line will readily snap them closed and the cylinder does not leak under high pressure but does with truck air. I took the cylinder off and lubed it up with Marvel mystery oil and reinstalled. This did nothing in reality but may still be beneficial to the packing. Thanks, Rob

That is the same thing I was told in 1980 when I purchased a 1970 IH 4000 with a 250 Cummins and 24ft. "Anthony" dump trailer from the original owner. This truck had only 36,000 miles, (actual) and I couldn't get any work because of the age except what wouldn't pay the incurred costs. Times haven't changed that much. Rob

I'm certainly not criticizing anyone. Business is business, and business is in business to make money. I have a Nissan Altima that is trouble free for 60,000 miles plus so far. I did not purchase the car on price, but rather comfort, economy, visibility, etc. No regrets either. No American manufacturer had anything I liked better or it would be in the driveway. Like I do everything else, I applied the "one payment" method for the best price I could get on this car. Would have done the same with a vehicle costing twice as much if it appealed to us-none did and be worth the extra cost. I've had one Ford truck mentioned earlier. Won't have another cause it was the perverbial piece of shit and definately had a mind of it's own. It was consistently needing something to satisfy an insatiable diet and appetite for american greenbacks. When the engine unexpectely let go, I rebuilt it and wholesaled it from my life and have never looked back. I then purchased my "trusty, yet crusty Dodge", and have never looked back. Rob

He's done a great job so far. I believe complete success is still to be had.

That has been going on for a lot of years. I purchased a 1984 Ford truck from the original owner, (low miles, 6.9ltr diesel) with a Dana 60 series rear axle. Every bearing in the rear end was made in either China, or Taiwan. It had never been apart so I removed the rear cover and axles to change fluid and seals. When you look at the number of automobiles that are on the North American roadways, then guage the number of import vs. American nameplates, people should realize there is a problem. To save costs, many Asian, European, and Chinese in the near future automobile manufacturers have set up shop in this country to sale, and distribute their product due to cost. Where does one think the bulk of that sale monies/profits go? I don't think the "lions share" stays here. As long as the "stupid American" continues on their current spending habits with the lowest dollar selling the product, it won't change. Rob

Anybody can buy a house they can't afford also. Keeping it, a different story. Rob

Maybe it was cold when the photo was snapped. Rob

While that story is sad I don't believe this affects Mack in any way. The Volvo arrangment was broken up several years ago when Ford acquired the Volvo brand of automobiles. This is when it was separated from the truck, and construction divisions. Rob

Yup. Everything I own, drive, live in etc. is paid for. Don't owe anybody anything. I do have a loan on my shop that I can't pay off because of tax benefits. Otherwise I'd write a check for it and be done. I have too many hobbies; all have a dog on the nose though. Of course there is my 68 Barracuda but I'm lazy when it comes to my own car. Rob

I've seen several times through the years an out of balance condition attributed to brake drums as they age and rust. When a drum rusts eventually they flake off a portion of the casting and this causes the aforementioned condition. I've seen several two and three year old cars have a vibration or wobble after a collision that wasn't there prior and a new drum, or drums fixes the problem. Usually a high quality brake lathe with class seven, or eight spindle bearings is adequate to find the light spot. I just changed the rear drums on my Dodge 1 ton truck last week due to severe rusting. Hell I smacked one with a hammer and know at least a pound of rusted material fell off. They had never been turned before but I went ahead and replaced them. Rob

Big difference when you work on them as a hobby rather than your livelihood. Rob

Let the truck sit all night and it fired right off this morning. I then let it warm for about an hour and drained the oil. There was a little water that I believe is still being washed out of the system. I then drained all the connecting hoses and the filter cannister. After installing my new filter and prefilling the cannister, I then dumped several gallons into the crankcase. After starting the engine back up and allowing for stabilization, it was shut off and another 3/4 gallon oil added to bring to the top of stick mark. After letting the truck warm I decided to go down the road piece so I equalized the steer tires at 80psi, (10.00X20) and off I go. Last time I attempted this I thought I was going to dent the roof with my skull; this time not so bad and actually started to smooth after about three miles on the highway. I followed a car and assuming they were doing about 55mph, I still had more speed available to me. Little different to shift the duplex trans rather than a tri, or quad. Don't take a whole lot of time to get used to it but there is a learning curve. This is a very good starting truck. Actually starts better than some I have that are much newer. The short wheelbase on camelback springs is a killer though. I would be surprised if this truck has a 125" wheelbase so it is pretty sharp in the ride. Kinda lets you know a man is needed to drive it rather than an excuse for a truck driver. The clutch is very easy to push and seems to work well. It does completely release when the pedal is pushed down and does not rattle or jump when engaging. I'm going to see if I can borrow a trailer for testing from our local ag dealer that I do quite a bit of work for. I don't know how long before the engine will turn the new oil black and it is still almost clear after over an hour of run time but will continue to check if for coolant contamination. Haven't flushed out the cooling system and put anti-freeze back in yet but the truck is stored inside the heated shop. Don't want to make it weatherproof until I know for sure the water in oil problem is solved. Rob

Average day. Nice to work on my own stuff. Rob

Shortly after taking the B67 out for a short hop and after filling the radiator back up due to a broken hose clamp and resultant leak, I discovered there was a lot of coolant in the oil. I also noticed an oil slick in the radiator. This made me think the problem was related to the oil cooler, so I took it off for testing. After cleaning in the parts washer I made up a test jig to pressurize the cooler while it would be submerged to look for bubbles. I actually found none. Glenn suggested that I isolate the air compressor so I could eliminate it from the coolant path which I tried, but the lines are so rigid from age, I did not remove them and tightened the fittings back up. Attempting to remove the oil filter element from it's housing cost me nine stitches in my left thumb the first time, then when I didn't keep the cut clean, another six when they had to go back in to get the infection out. Oh well.... After healing a few days, I removed the oil lines and drained everything down to empty, and reinstalled same without an oil filter element. I robbed another oil cooler from a junk ENDT676 engine out back and upon taking it apart, found some broken aluminum shards in the core. After running a rod down each tube to remove these chunks of piston, (I think) the core tested fine at 80 psi under water. I then reassembled the core into the case using a new "O" ring, and gaskets then installed back onto the engine. Without the oil filter installed, I dumped four gallons of used, but clean "drain oil" into the engine fired it up. Amazing thing didn't even roll over but a couple times before roaring to life. It ran for a couple of minutes and then started to run very rough and died. It had been running fine till then. The engine died as if the stop cable was pulled out with no hesitation. After checking for fuel, (plenty) and working the priming pump, the engine still would not start. I then checked the oil which did not indicate on the stick. I dumped in another two gallons and the engine started right up and ran fine. That hydraulic governor must work well.... Letting the engine run for almost an hour, with the radiator blocked off using cardboard, there appears to be no coolant in the oil this time. I then shut the engine down, cracked the drain plug and no water, just oil. Now past the smell, I think I got it licked. I'll get new lines made to replace old ones on Monday in celebration of Dr. Martin Luther King's birthday, and maybe drive it with all fluids changed on Tuesday, or Wednesday. Ensuring that your double time tax dollars are wisely spent, I'm working the holiday. Rob

You're not alone. I think it, and professional sports are a worthless waste of time. I see everyone has been using their complementary BMT "slip and slide" post whore lubricant today for easy insertion. Rob

Totally inaccuracy as to placement and directions. Rob

Did one of you guys stomp his dick in the dirt or something to run him off? Not really like him to go days and not check in. Maybe he's on a rescue mission of a stranded Pete? The world wonders........ Rob

enjoy Two Radical Arab Terrorists boarded a flight out of London . One took a window seat and the other sat next to him in the middle seat. Just before takeoff, a U.S. Marine sat down in the aisle seat. After takeoff, the Marine kicked his shoes off, wiggled his toes and was settling in when the Arab in the window seat said, 'I need to get up and get a coke.' 'Don't get up,' said the Marine, 'I'm in the aisle seat, 'I'll get it for you.' As soon as he left, one of the Arabs picked up the Marines shoe and spat in it. When the Marine returned, the other Arab said, 'That looks good, I'd really like one, to.' Again, the Marine went to fetch it. While he was gone the other Arab picked up the Marines other shoe and spat in it. When the Marine returned, they all sat back and enjoyed the flight. As the plane was landing, the Marine slipped his feet into his shoes & knew immediately what had happened. He leaned over & asked his Arab neighbors, 'Why does it have to be this way?' 'How long must this go on? This fighting between our nations? This hatred? This animosity? This spitting in shoes and pissing in cokes?' THE FEW. THE PROUD. THE MARINES

Did the installer modify/change/break the plug to make a 9007 bulb fit a 9004 socket? If I remember correctly they are different because the 9007 bulb is a bit higher in wattage consumed, (marginally brighter). There is a guide "tang" in the socket that will preclude this happening, accidently if memory serves. Rob

Hoping to drive it again this weekend. Kicked a couple of cars out this past week and having some time free up. I received the "O" ring and gasket kits for rebuilding the cooler so took the old one apart this evening although it did not leak with testing. Pretty cruddy in there so leaving it soak overnight in the washer. Will pressure wash it clean tomorrow and rebuild, then pressure test again. I've still not been able to get the old cooler apart that was originally on the engine. I have about 15 gallons of clean drain oil that will be used to verify the coolant in the oil problem goes away. Also bought a box of Cascade soap as suggested. If the oil contaminates again, I'll pull the pan and do the pressure test as has been suggested. I've not pulled the compressor lines loose as they are very stiff and sure to break with disturbance. A good portion of the lines on the engine are replacements. What are original are very stiff and will need replaced before the truck operates much. Don't mind getting someplace slow with this truck's anticipated usage, just want to get there. I have more powerful engines around here and will use one if need be but I'm not sure if I'll keep this one or not. Too much belly, not enough cab syndrome. Big feet get in the way too with the cramped cabin. Rob

Supposedly it will run 65 empty. I'm wondering if I'll be able to keep up to 60 with a load on.... Rob

Now I'm gonna ask a question cause I have no experience. Here are the givens: 1962 Mack B-67ST. Somewhere between 5.73 and 5.77 ratio rears. Nine speed overgear transmission. END673T series engine, (looks to be 1966 vintage due to casting dates). 11RX22.5 tires. What kind of road speed should I be able to maintain on the flat pulling a 13,000# trailer, with about 30,000# on the deck, (antique trucks)? I have no idea as to horsepower of the engine but surmise it's about 225-250. Thanks, Rob

From an insider:

You're quite welcome for the part I've played, if any. This site is well run and organized. It is also self moderated well. BMT has long been my favorite also, that pertains to Mack Trucks. Rob