Rob

I'm not one for a lot of chrome but do admire personalization of a vehicle. Too many trucks running the roads that are generic with all the aftermarket items added. After a while, they kinda blend together. Look at your Superliner for instance; Seeing that truck working would get a second glance and quite possibly a close up examination if not in transit. The Granite, (while I mean no offense) would't peak the same response. I'm just as fond of clean, mill finish aluminum as I am brightly polished, but look at that kind of stuff from a functionality standpoint. I also like spokes from the same outlook. I've seen dump trucks with a lot of britework on them so know it is popular but it sure is easier to repaint a steel wheel rather than deal with a gouged aluminum one. Hell of a lot cheaper too. I hope you fare better with that bumper than every single one I've seen on a dump truck that is twisted. Nice looking trucks any way they're looked at. Rob

And very much the same to you also Rene'. Rob

If I'd have owned and operated this truck for any kind of time I would think my mass would have caused the lean, but not the case this time. I may need to install an extra leaf, or use a heavier rated pack for compensation on the driver's side to make sure things stay level and that is a viable option. Incidently, I've lost 22 of the 46 pounds gained since I seen you guys last. I'm trying really hard too get back to 300 because I want to drive this truck without my belly stopping the return to center of the steering wheel upon completion of a turn. Rob

I'm afraid you have lost me here. If you have an 18.6 ampere draw on a 20 ampere rated fuse and it blows, there could be another problem. Although I typically size an electrical load with a 20% "safety factor" built in at no time should the current draw mentioned force the circuit interrupter to act, (blow). Automotive fuses are built to be "slo blow" to withstand the instantaneous inrush current which is always much higher than once the circuit stabilizes such as the lamps illuminating. I remember your problems with lamps extinguishing during operation and hopefully the headlamp switch has been replaced as this has been problematic to others. I would be inspecting your wiring harnesses for water intrusion/corrosion and while using an ammeter tied into a main headlamp circuit feed, manipulate these harnesses and look for surges on the meter. I feel it is this sudden increase in current that causes your problem if the headlamp switch has been replaced, the the problems still exist. Rob

Think I had seen one of those "Fergie" squeeze dolls at a toy store in the mall. That was in Peoria and if you can't locate one up by you, let me know and I'll get it for you. We won't ask what you do with it, promise. Rob

I've seen other "traditions" for New Years celebration. Worst one I ever tried was "Pickled Herring". I don't really care for fish all that much and this may not have been prepared correctly cause I wasn't to only one that said something was wrong. Never have tried it again. Rob

Can't says that I've ever seen them. I know the fields around here are sprayed to kill anything that has a chance to grow and is not either corn, or soybeans. Rob

No, I have not eaten those, nor even heard of them. I distinctly remember Richard Pryor, (Greatest comedian in the WORLD incidently) mentioning "greens" though. Something like: "Then I hid in the bushes, and waited for this big collard green eatin bitch to go to the bafroom see"...... Rob

Hi Joe, I'm not much of a mechanic but do know that the flywheel housings on the engine can be different but similar. The only real difference that I know of is the older 237 engines used a lead seal for the rear main, where the newer engines use a lip type seal. The transmission bellhousings will mate up correctly assuming you currently hava an SAE #1 housing now and will find this same size for the Fuller. A couple others on this board will be able to answer those questions much more effectively than I can. We are victims of a government out of control. At the current pace, collapse is about the only option. Rob

I've seen 8LL's installed into Mack trucks in the past and would be quite certain you could accomplish that also. Mack uses a different type of transmission bellhousing when using a Fuller transmission that incorporates the rear engine mounts. as a Mack transmission uses the case itself for this mounting. If you purchase a used 8LL trans all you would really need to acquire with the purchase is this bellhousing. The rest of the parts are pretty much standard. I'm not 100% certain but think you may be able to reuse your existing clutch cable setup also. Of course driveshaft work, and the shifter handle would be needed but it should be pretty straight forward to change over. A loud noise in an overhauled transmission is not the best thing to have. I don't know much about transmission but there were several different variants of the same model and if used parts are mated together that are close, but not perfect, the result is noise. Of course a bearing could be bad or going that way, gears could be worn needing replacement, and a multitude of things could be defective/worn out. Maybe the trans had the top cover taken off, looked at and called "rebuilt"? One never knows when acquiring from an individual. The remaining mines around here are slow too. I'm not involved with them but the last one in close proximity closed about 10 years ago. Still a lot of coal in the ground, too expensive to get it by the time the government is taken into account. Rob

Is there someone that is singled out and picked on besides me here? I thought I read every post but I guess I've missed some. Rob

Hi Paul and thanks for chipping in. I don't have any parts books for these old trucks and probably should do something about that. Dayton Spring still lists the insulators, (all three pieces) for the front boxes but that doesn't mean anyone will have them. I don't know how many pairs of 1/2, and 3/4 ton domestic produced trucks I've had the springs re-arched both hot, and cold that didn't hold up over a medium duration. I've used St. Louis Spring Co. in St. Louis many times to build new springs and really not had any problems. New 10,500# rated springs for my RL797L were $253.00 each with polygraphite bushings, and new screw eye pins which I didn't feel was too bad. The cost to re-arch, temper, and rebush with new pins was $145.00 each so I elected for new. I did have one broken main leaf on the passenger side that was to be replaced, and a second leaf with tow wrap on the other side bad. These would have added to the repair cost. It was too close to not go with new. I've not looked at the front axle to discern if it is an FA-505 or not, but will. Think I've got an oil cooler bad on the engine due to coolant in the oil, and oil in the coolant. I've removed the oil cooler from the engine but cannot get the cooler "pack" out of the housing without deforming it. I'd have to put it in a press to place more pressure upon the "pack". There is a junk 676 engine that I dragged in from the cold and took it's oil cooler apart this evening. This one does come apart but I'm going to test it with 80psi underwater tomorrow to see if it leaks. I will then order a "kit" to rebuild it from the dealer. Hopefully I'll get to drive it again next week. Got nine stitches in my left thumb taking it apart two weekends ago when the "Dog" bit me; (I didn't even piss it off). I've not received the information yet so I can only assume that reading a tape measure must be a perplexing problem when one is suffering from Pete withdrawl symptoms. I hear Valium is an effective treatment that calms the shaking and instability associated with attempting to traverse to point B from point A in one of them things. Rob

I've never heard of it but will look into it. Thanks, Rob

I'm ecstatic to learn that you possess such high tech gadgetry in your arsenal. This way you can scan your readings, convert them to .pdf format and email it to me. This is much faster, with unexcelled clarity in reproduction. No matter the outside temperature, you'll be very warm as you complete this task for me cause I'm gonna hold yer feet to the fire till done. Rob

Hi Glenn, have you had good success with the cold re-arching process? I have not on lt. duty GM, and Ford 4X4 front ends in years past. I've never had a large truck done before. I don't know if there are any bad leafs on the spring as everything is covered in road grime. I can't even tell how many leaves are in each spring pack. Rob

Hi there and thanks. I've seen that done along with adding a leaf to one side to correct for sag. I'm not against installing new springs under the truck if these I have will not work and would prefer to go that way as they are not cost prohibitive. The rubber blocks are bad and need to come out for replacement also. Really only want to take it apart a single time as in reality my time is split too many ways as it is. Rob

I'm proud of ya there Double L. Fax that damned thing over to other dog so he can acquire the relevant information before it gets dark. I don't want him to have to round up a flashlight too. Rob

Keep looking. Don't give up. The consequences of failure are too great. Rob

If it were me in an aging and troublesome truck, there would be no hesitation in my decision to repower mechanical and interface new gauges and such to work. Rob

As you know: Perseverance will always prevail. I anxiously await your response with the relevant information for further processing. K-Mart has a large sale on bedding and I'm sure rubber sheets are included. Although I have deemed them uncomfortable, and distracting between the folds of my skin, others may not. Appreciate your help in this matter. Rob

Paul is busy at the present time and letup does appear evident for several days; (Sources inform me he is out on a rescue party for another Pete). The information is required much sooner than this avenue would be able to provide. Your assistance to this increasingly perplexing problem/situation deserves absolute, and resolute involvement on your part. Your involvement will provide intangible benefits. Rob

Some like the time off from work. Rob

It's about 25 here and snowing with expected accumulation of 3" through the day. I've been told, but do not know, the spring boxes are different on a 67 series, but no knowlege first hand. That's why you will need to take them apart and save me the pain and effort of the aforementioned items. Thanks, Rob

Tell you what, I know that B53 springs are the same length as B61's, so after you unbolt the front spring boxes/perches under the mixer and relay the correct end to end length of the sping with the weight off measurment to me, I'll follow suit. I can't get to the B61 yet cause it's about a foot deep in a snow drift and if I were to lay in that snow, it would melt. Then my ass cheeks would become wet and chap. Then we would have whole nother set of problems to deal with. Besides that, the moisture may take some of my sweetness away. I could wrap myself in the rubber sheets we use during the summer routing my profuse sweating along with drainage of various bodily fluids that disallows permeation of our underlying bedding appliances, but it is uncomfortable in the winter due to lack of flexibility. Knowing the reliabiltity factor of a Pete, and taking this information into account; I know you have time available to help with my project. Thanks in advance. Rob

Does anybody know if the front springs from a B61 will fit under a B67? Looking for length, not capacity on this one. My latter has a 1-5/8ths lean on the driver side while setting on the shop floor. The driver's side sping is almost flat, while the passenger side retains a positive arch. I don't mind buying new springs if needed but my "Yella Dog" has known good springs under the front. Thanks, Rob