Rob

The guy that is selling these items is the very same moron that I purchased my "Project R-12" from, and got screwed on the PTO's that were paid for, and not furnished with the truck. He then ceased answering my telephone calls and I lamblasted him the next time he posted on here. I believe the emblems are the originals to my truck. This guy is truly one to avoid as I tried to help him out at time of need, and got screwed for my trouble. Rob http://cgi.ebay.com/...=item35a5cbe275

Sure glad to help you find your project. It sure looks worth working with. Be sure to keep up posted!! Rob

If you have issues with problematic neighbors they must be dealt with accordingly. Here is one scenario that has worked quite effectively for me, and is quite easy to implement: The neighbor comes up to my wife with a couple piles of dogshit in a shovel from his back yard when she is weeding her flowerbed. When she states that the piles are most likely not from our dogs, he flings the dogshit into our back yard. Now this is not a problem as our dogs do know, (by training) not to go out of our yard due to severe and sudden reprimand, and they go in our yard. When my wife tells myself and daughter of this "incident", action is sprung. My daughter pays a visit next door and they are very belligerant to her, telling her they are "sick of our fucking dogs" and order her off the property before they call the police. You folks don't actually know me but I'm not a very passive man when my family has been offended. This action is one that puts Rob's little processor into motion. You see I have watched this low down son of a bitch and know most of his surface routines from the time he shuts the television off in his bedroom, till the time he wakes up in the morning. I also know he has blood pressure, and heart problems. Without much thought I gather a few things from the shop to implement my "plan" to extract a little revenge as some people need to learn to keep their mouths shut. At 1:15a.m. his television in the bedroom is on as usual, and at 1:30a.m. the room is dark. I figger that about 3:00a.m. is a great time to interupt a sound sleep so I lie in wait. At 3:00a.m, I take my Grover air horn and portable air tank precharged to 175psi and regulated down to 120 psi, over to his house. Upon pressing the air horn end bell against the propped open dryer vent door flush against the house, (this is right below their bedroom) and giving the handle a squeeze, just about 10 seconds elapses before the lights come back on and I just stand there shining my flashlight in their window to draw attention. The loudmouth idiot throws open the sash and commences to yelling obscenities to me to which I reply: "This is just the opening hymn, say anything and I get serious", and walked off. I assume he took my statement as it was meant as we've not heard a peep out of them in over a year now. Rob

http://charlotte.craigslist.org/cto/1517139039.html Rob

Bet your ass that would cost a bunch. I'm with Herb, "Send Money", and lots of it. Rob

Nice looking bracket. I've got to do the same with two of my trucks as I want dual air cleaners too. Thanks, Rob

And it's not a Pete, (which would be perfectly natural). What Herb states is correct on the headlamp and other circuits being separated. However, the left and right circuits are usually separate from each other also and protected by self resetting individual breakers, (not fuses). In order to lose illumination to the headlamp circuit there would need to be a common control point which would either be the headlamp switch, headlamp dimmer switch, or the interconnecting wiring. With them comming back on a time later could be the circuit breakers had time to cool and reset, or the changing of the headlamp switch position could have "jossled" their contacts position. The internal construction of automotive headlamp switches consist of copper strips, and fingers used for contacts and are are thin, typically serving the life of the vehicle, but not always....... Intermittent problems like this are very difficult to isolate and repair. Coupled with the unpredictable frequency of recurrance they can be great generator of undue stress...... If the weather was clear and bright at the time of the problem, change the headlamp switch as cheap insurance. Some of these things run warm and can break down internally in addition to not being of the best quality construction. If the weather was moist or humid, look for wiring issues along the floor pan, and firewall of the cab for moisture intrusion and corrosion; especially at the connection plugs. A wee bit of corrosion, or moisture in these can wreak havoc on electrical systems. I don't really see taking the dash apart again unless there is room for doubt in the technicians' ability that evaluated the problem. Rob

That's not as much fun as watching paint dry...... Rob

You are not alone. Rob

No it cannot. It is integral to the pump/control assembly. I've been told you can remove the cover at the rear of the pump and affix a wire to the end of the rack to pull the rack towards the rear when the engine is running. This would eliminate the governor function of the pump but could be used to isolate where the problem lies within the unit. If you were able to hold a steady high idle speed with this wire attached, one would surmise the governor section of the pump is defective, or the engine oil pressure declines as the engine warms due to bearing clearance issues. This is where engine oil pressure is necessary. If you have access to another pump with the governor in the rear, the swap is straightforward. I'd pull this pump and have it checked at a fuel shop. Sounds like you've eliminated everything else external. Rob

Hi Glenn, that number is still accurate for a crossover to WIX, Hastings, Baldwin etc. I did purchase a WIX today and it matches the old filter great. The old filter did not have a number marked on it anyplace. Thanks, Rob

Small block Chevrolet engines do not have the threaded core plugs in the ends of the heads. Mark IV engines do. Rob

Didn't realize you had the hydraulic governor type injection pump. Yes, the hydraulic section of the governor could be bad, or the supply of engine oil to the governor could be restricted. Does your oil pressure gauge in the dash show good oil pressure? If the governor does not have good, steady oil pressure to it, the engine will shut down. When the engine is first started for the day, does it buck and rock for a few moments then steady out? If so the governor could be needing adjusted, or rebuilt. These things internally are much like a Detroit diesel with setting the "droop" of the rpm balance, which is basically a recovery rate. Rob

I would never bypass a filter unless using known clean fuel which it sounds like you did. The next thing would be to install a "T" fitting into the discharge of the transfer, or lift pump on the side of the main pump housing, (this has the primer handle on it usually) and make sure that pump is putting at least 15psi out at a high idle of about 1500 rpm. If it is low either the pressure relief valve at the return to tank line is bad, or the transfer pump valves are shot. Rob

Did you check/change the fuel filter. If it is the original cartridge style, ensure the reservoir is full. If it is being sucked down then most likely the filter is plugged and should be changed. Typically when a pump is bad it will idle well but will not deliver any power from the engine. This is due to the fuel supply bypassing the plungers due to wear and returning to the fuel gallery within the pump. This is just what piston rings do when they're worn out too with engine oil, and compression. Rob

I only see a Pete assuming it's rightful place and an International 9200, or 9300 series wrecker righting it myself. I suppose my overhanging gut could be pulling on my lower eyelids obscuring my vision though. Rob

Hi Herb, it is the EP additive that concerns me. I have both GL-4, and GL-5 in the shop, but both contain this additive. Others have told me no go in transmissions due to eating on bronze, and too stiff to flow properly into needle bearings. I've bought synthetic for my Eaton transmissions although not used it yet. Thanks, Rob

The Mystic would not surprise me as the gent that formerly owned the truck was an avid "Farm & Fleet" shopper. I checked all the fluids and they are right to the top when cold. As long as the truck has been sitting they need changed anyways. Thanks, Rob

Getting ready to drain my duplex in the B67. What type of oil should go back into this, and about how much? I think the oil that is in it is synthetic because it is red/dark, and smells strange. It does not have the gear lube smell at all. I spoke with my Mobil rep and he says they have SAE 50 transmission oil that is mineral based. I think that is the correct product, but would like confirmation. Also going to change the drive axles lube. I suppose 85-90W would be alright here but should I go with the heavier stuff to just putz around in? Thanks, Rob

Anybody know what oil filter an END673T engine takes? It is the "full flow" type that is about 18" tall, and about 8" in diameter. Thanks, Rob

Sooo.... Another Pete that is unsatisfied with only letting it's driver down to return on foot. It's gotta go "full tilt" on a state highway as to expose and reveal it's inferiority construction complex. Poor driver. Never knew what he was getting into. Rob

I see nothing out of the ordinary with that photo. Please clue me in. Rob

Just look back to Dan Quayle. Young, good looking, limited political sense or knowledge....... Not much difference to me. Think Mccain would get any votes on his looks? Not hardly. Pretty sad of the GOP to install either of them for candidates. Rob

Looks to be an "EH"-"EQ" series to me being single drive axle. Appears to be an EN-354 Mack built engine. Lots of parts still available for those trucks but it will take some looking, and prepare to part with the funds over the duration. Rob