Rob

No sir, not at all. Left handed threaded studs were used on the left side of the truck only. Right handed threaded studs were used only on the right side of the truck. This is only with the "Budd" style cap and nut retaining system. All the hub pilot wheels are right hand thread no matter which side of the truck they are on. Rob

The only sound of judgment I ever hear is the "snap and recoil" of Momma's hand upside my head. I've not bought a truck in about three years so I must be catching on. I've had three given to me however. Feet? I don't touch Momma's feet; They are disgusting. After she finishes chewing her toenails and licking the inbetweens clean while watching her soaps, I don't touch em cause they're gross, (but clean). I can't get my arms around her waist from the front to reach her middle back neither, and I surely don't get around back cause she likes to fart with control, (loudly) and it smells TERRIBLE!!! Any other examples you may think of???? Rob

I've heard the term in the past. What is it? Rob

Some of you guys that work in truck shops should be able to answer this but how much would one of these types be used in a shop on older trucks? I've talked to a couple of places that service newer stuff and am told they are obsolete due to clearance issues, but they used to be quite common. Thanks, Rob

I've seen the clutch setups as low as 359.99, up to better that $700.00, (exchange). It depends on what setup you have. Call your Mack dealer with the vin of the truck to ascertain what components you have to research parts. Rob

If you are doing the work yourself don't rule out your Mack dealer. I've bought several Mack branded clutch setups that were priced competitively with the aftermarket parts houses. A new clutch set will come with the friction disc(s), the intermediate plate, and pressure plate, (clutch cover) and throw out bearing. A machine shop will need to resurface the flywheel face and install the disc driving "dogs" if a 14 inch clutch. Be sure to replace both the crankshaft pilot bearing, and clutch brake while it is apart. Also look at the bushings in the flywheel housing and inspect the pivot shaft that operates the release, or throw out bearing for wear. Ensure everything is properly greased upon reassembly. I also like to use new bolts and hardware for everything upon reassembly, but it is not entirely necessary. Rob

Ya see, when my name's on the truck, it has shiny hubcaps. Where is Rob you ask?? He is breaking in a new freight company called "Shoe Leather Express" on his way to get a wrecker to bring this damn thing home again!! Rob

Pretty decent trucks actually. Probably repaired well over a hundred through the years due to wrecks, rust, etc.... Worst consumer oriented part on the style is the air conditioning/heating system as the airboxes hold drip water from the cowl area and rot/corrode out. Of course we can't discount the bullshit way they fastened the doors using pins and bushings that don't last, nor the cheesy headlamp and actuator switches...... They really were a pretty solid performing unit. The 2000 and up Silverado have more inherent problems than that style did, although they are still a pretty good unit. If I were purchasing new today and looking for long term cost of ownership, I would go with GMC although they are close with Dodge. Too much "cheapening up" to increase profit margins on the manufacturing side for too many years. Durability past warranty is not considered. Rob

Ahh yes, another one of those generic "sure hope I make it home" Chevys I've seen so many of. If you listen closely on a quiet night, you can hear it rust! Rob

I can't answer that with certainty. All the "eastern" trucks I've seen use the type mount that my photos show. My "Western" trucks use a different mount altogether but the frame rails of these trucks do not splay out under the cab, and they use straps to retain the fuel tanks. I'll compare the R795 mounts, and an R685 mounts tonight and note any differences. Rob

Looks like ya'll loading up to grab a Pete from someplace that's broke down. Rob

Budd style use an inner wheel retaining threaded nut, and an outer wheel retaining nut also. Both nut seats and the seats on the rims are tapered. The hub pilot style use one nut with a fixed washer to retain both wheels to the hub. The stud holes are not tapered. Dayton hubs are spokes. With either the Budd, or hub pilot style the stud is pulled into the hub from the rear to the front of the hub with a puller. I've seen many studs pulled into the hub using a lug nut but that usually galls the snot out of the threads, or stretches the stud rendering it weak and useless. Rent an installer for this installation, or purchase a mechanical one. They can take a lot of mechanical force to pull them in too..... A Dayton style spoke hub will have the studs screwed into the spokes. You will need a stud extractor if the threads are stripped to grip the body and twist it out. If you can get two nuts onto the threads, jam them together with wrenches and gripping on the lower nut turn the stud out of it's mounting. Be prepared for some busted knuckles as is the norm for me. Rob

She named it. I always called the business: "The shop". Our 68 Barracuda license plate is "Affair 2". She wouldn't let have either just "Affair", or "Affair 1". Rob

Are the hubs Budd style, hub pilot style, or Dayton style? Rob

Yeah, my defenses are getting weak in my old age. Rob

I'm not partial any longer. People bust em up, I put em back together. Filth belching factories in China are producing the same parts in a different moulded cases to fit different vehicles, so don't really make much difference. Rob

My waist size is seven inches less than my height when barefoot. I don't work on too much stuff any longer. Rob

Slim Pickens. Rob

Once again the "trusty, yet crusty" Dodge delivered the goods.

Dat be correct. I place my "trust in the crust" with my ole Dodge, just tonight.

Good. I get tired of being picked on all the time. You know like Cheech and Chong: Man, I never do nothin wrong, but ever time I get the blame, I've been framed...... Rob

Today's edition of "Fix that post"!!! Rob

Welcome to the site. You'll find ample help and opinions here. Feel free to join in with anything of ideas or knowlege. Rob

And the reason for the name of your initial post would be? Rob

Sounds like you are on the right track with air in the lines. I would replace the rubber line with a copper running from the tank to the transfer pump and see if the problem still exists. Those old rubber lines can minutely crack and you will never see it. Since this section of line is under negative pressure, (vacume) it may not leak fuel, or seep. The fittings on both ends are 45 degrees, so regular plumbing fittings for a test case will work. Rob