Rob

My second uncle up the chain was Postmaster in Puxico, MO for many years, but that was before my time. Once retired he went back to work as a rural carrier and did that well into his 80's. He had a fleet of AMC Ambassador, and IH Scout vehicles with most being RHD until finally hanging it up.

My water wagon has much the same setup for the Neway "tag" axle. It is air down, spring up, with a regulator and gauge to set applied pressure on this axle: I don't have a photo of the dash indicator readily available but have found about 65psi, (indicated) when the truck is loaded is about even weight on all three axles when it is down.

Ah, the Christmas spirit: Had two rural postal carriers in my family too and in those days you never seen them either during the Christmas season.

FMVSS 121 ordered the installation of ABS in the mid 1970's. It was allowed to be disconnected as it was SO troublesome. That is what your wires are for to connect to a hall effect pickup reading a "tone ring" which spins with wheel rotation. The tone ring could be called a "reluctor", (same thing different name).

We had one either very similar or just like it in air force blue on the flight line at NAS Norfolk in 1988. It was used for deicer fluid and pulled by a Dodge 900. Deicing tugs were filled from it.

It did but the turbocharger was "mapped" to provide the needed air at lower rpm's of the engine. That is where the imbalance of adjusting the fuel limit screw can burn them up. The engine starves for needed air for both cooling and combustion. They get hot quick when overfueled.

I used "Sika" many years for adhering automotive glass into collision repairs. Good selection and a good product. Not really easy to clean up however once it's down and cured.....

Met with a gent yesterday afternoon to bid on installing overhead doors onto both my former car wash bay, and spray room. He vendors "Wayne Dalton" doors and they have no exterior bracing bolted to the back side of the panels so a true "vertical lift" type scenario can work. I have ceiling height to go straight up without any curvature and if any is required, only the top section. The one proposed door enclosing the wash bay will have a walk door centered so the overhead door will not be required to be opened for personnel entrance. Currently the wash bay is open to the interior of the shop and the spray room uses a large sliding door I built from 2X6 framing, insulated, and covered with steel siding years ago. The spray room itself is heavily insulated as I used to "bake" cars in there during my body shop days. I'm wanting to heat/cool these two areas independent of the main shop floor.

Really wasn't always that way. I've had my B-61T since 1979, (actually Christmas 1978 present) and used to go to the parts store for it routinely. I purchased the lamps mentioned as they were going out of stock and mine were getting pitted in the chrome but still shiny. I started hitting/surfing ebay back in the early 2000's as many parts were getting hard to come by and scarce parts were sometimes available. That was good for a few years but strong scrap steel prices sent a lot of donors over the scales with disregard for those whom may appreciate parts. Wish I had extras to help you out as it really looks like you are going to have a nice one when finished.

Man I can't believe those marker lamps have gotten that high in price. I remember purchasing mine in the early 1990's from the local NAPA store with the "ECHLIN" name on the box and KD-517 on the chrome bezels for $9.95 each. The same lamp in "Yankee" brand and different stamped number set was given to me by another party as they didn't have anything that "old" any longer. These were complete lamp kits including the rivet nuts to install through the sheet metal roof.

If you asked about an aluminum spider I must have missed it. I may have one but need to know the position on the truck as front and rear differ. I'm making assumption for a 34K rear tandem suspension?

Your conveyance mirrors what I was told; hence the reason I went with gray on the valve covers. I was thinking I would go with the chrome powder coat also but was told much the same. Upon looking at sample chips the vendor has, it didn't look anything like electroplating to me..... I really don't need to do this at all but if the price comes out right I'll jump as it's another opportunity. As mentioned earlier the shop space is available, and the capacity is there, so the subject should be evaluated.

The large and insulated oven is bolted together in sections easily any length desired. Right now a full sized four door pickup truck would go inside it as it's about the same sized as a commercial paint spray booth. They were set up to produce parts with an overhead powered trolley with hundreds of attachment hooks. Kind of a neat setup with much of it automated for production work, but still allowed for manual/batch type work. I had him do some V8 Mack engine valve covers in gray and they look nice. I think they were done in the smaller oven. I've never installed them so can't vouch for quality, nor durability, but to me they look no better than a good quality 2K paint. I can however see a great benefit to reaching hidden areas with the powder to ensure even coverage where it can be difficult to paint.

I'm attempting to gauge interest in powder coating as I have been approached by a party to purchase their operation, (equipment only). Seemingly this would be congruent with operations I'm setting up for. I've used them in the past and the product is very good, but locally not enough work to exist upon as they catered only to a certain market. In reality their business plan is/was not sound for long term existence after their single contract expired. What I'm asking is if there is interest in this operation from a restorer's point, and why, or why not? I will have extra capacity in a new venture after the first of the year and am looking to fill that capacity with a second operation. Thanks, Rob

No worries. Do you have any IH equipment with air brakes? I found a "Service" glad hand which is cast iron and plainly branded with "IH" and "Service" in the casting. Also found a front header panel emblem from an old "LoadStar" IIRC.

Brad; USPS shows package delivered 12/10/2019 @ 10:22a.m. Want to ensure you have possession and I shipped it correctly. Thanks, Rob

Same here. This is about the only website I participate with/at anymore. Ebay and Craigslist of course, but I need to break away from those too as reasonably priced Mack parts have almost gone extinct.

KevinS is probably another victim, (hopefully not) of the site's partisan politics. One thread went combative recently and he was insulted by some of the postings. Sad as the gent is a real craftsman in his endeavors and we all miss out citing this type behavior. Same fate as over 100 of the original group we had together for many years. Call it what you will, but that type activity and it's perpetrators need banned after trial admonishment. Playing "Ostrich" doesn't do anybody any good as far as the site, (IMO).

Believe I have located one of these but it needs pulled to ensure it is good. I will have to drill and tap the case for studs but I have that capacity. No core as it's used but private party from a retired and parted truck when the engine went bad.

Given you've mentioned aluminum caps and I've only seen those on 34K rated rear suspensions, look at this photo and see if what you are looking for is there. If you are looking for #9 in the diagram, there are three available; 5-7/8", 6-3/8", and 6-3/4" deep. These are called "insulator boxes" and I don't know if you'll find aluminum ones new.

I've used non detergent SAE 30 oil in them without problems also. GL-4 90W gear lubricant and SAE-50 engine oil are the same viscosity on different scales.

The number I referenced will be hand stamped into the axle housing. Looks kinda like these:

I'm a retiree from the federal civil service. I understand it very well, (unfortunately) and over the duration of my employment, garnered over $10K in cash awards for rooting it out.

That really is not bad at all being all inclusive. I know having the rears on the B-673 relined and all wheel end hardware, (F&R) was right at $650.00. Finding that older stuff is difficult and they had to grind the friction material to the proper contour which is a long forgotten process.

I have ran GL-4 90W in my auxiliaries and older Mack transmissions for many years. They say GL-5 will work nowadays but when it was first introduced, it liked to eat anything brass. GL-4 was common in the 60's and 70's and still readily available so I stay with it.