Rob

Got the title delivered last evening so it's officially mine. Going to transfer it this afternoon with antique plates on. I will be out of the country starting Friday, and will return next Sunday, so I'll get it home after then. Hopefully it won't be freezing cold...... Rob

I've also seen the "Thermodyne" emblem on B model hoods minus the "Diesel" when the truck was gas powered. My B-62 was like that with an EN-464 engine. Rob

Both of the heavy truck parts stores I deal with carry that brand and although made in Taiwan, they seem to hold up well. Rob

I don't think she had that aptitude. Fate can be a good thing for thinning the "gene pool". Rob

I look for legislation to ban yakking on the phone while driving in the next couple of years. I've repaired too many vehicles that were wrecked from distraction such as that. Rob

Is there not much call for greater than 2", and up to 3"? Rob

First off I would look at the source. Your air compressor on the engine may be needing a rebuild. Once it is verified that it is either good, or rebuilt, then start taking lines loose and blowing an alcohol solution through the lines to purge them using an engine degreasing gun. These have a hose that will suck a solution up and discharge it and looks a lot like an air blow gun. Blow as many of the lines clean as you can. Rob

I need to purchase a 3/4" socket set for the shop. I've seen several sets on ebay, (and the like) but the sizes vary all over the place. Most start at 3/4", or 7/8" and go to either 2", or 2-1/8". I seen one set that went to 3" and was EXPENSIVE!! My question is how large do I need to go with a 3/4" drive set without going overkill? I've got wheel nut sockets in 1" drive so those are not a concern. Thanks, Rob

As Herb stated both sets of hub types were available as per customer request. I don't think a lot of the trucks with spokes on the rear, and Budd type on the front have been replaced. From what I've seen through the years that was a common type of setup. I have a couple of "Western" Macks that have this setup which was quite common a few years back. I think Dayton style hubs are stronger than their Budd counterpart, but a dummy can make a Budd wheel run true consistently. If the guy mounting the rims knows what he's doing, (and is worth his salt) a Dayton will also run true. Back to the original point that a truck with Budd front hubs typically had aluminum front rims which are much lighter than their steel counterpart, and spoke drives which are also much lighter than their steel Budd counterparts. Now remember this setup was popular when a "fleet driver" knew how, and was responsible to change his own flat tires as there was not central dispatch number to call and wait for road service. Just my thoughts. Rob

Second that one. Rob

Thad is correct. Those valve can be rebuilt but it is much most time efficient to just replace them. OTC they cost about $20.00 for reman units at most heavy truck parts stores. Rob

Hi Joe, you are correct in your assumption. "Thermodyne" was a Mack term only. Rob

You know me. Always eager to oblige. Rob

Ya'll want to see me in my "birthday suit"? I'll capture some "stills" from me an Momma's last porno film, (In thru the out door) and post them for your viewing pleasure. Rob

I'm glad to have it wrapped up so to speak. Unbeknownst to me I had fixed his son's Caravan a couple years ago, (deer hit) and let the owner make payments on his insurance deductable, (just before Christmas) and had changed a flat tire alongside the road for his daughter without charge late at night. I did not realize the two had any kind of relationship, nor how some seemingly simple actions could reap such rewards. My past performances meant something to them, and they have reciprocated with something that holds meaning to me, (no matter how painful my immediate future may be). I've not driven anything on the road with a duplex transmission so don't really have any sort of plans as of yet. One thing I find puzzling is that he said the truck would run right at 65mph on flat road empty. The rears have 6.34 gears and my 64 B-61 with a TRQ-7220 will only run 57 on the governor so something can't be right. Both trucks are on 10.00X20 rubber too. If the quad is good in that truck I most likely will replace the duplex as I like the shift pattern and sound out the pipe. This 711 does have one of those hydraulic governors on the pump but he said it always started right up without a lot of cranking. All ten tires on this thing are recaps and are many years old. Although they all hold air, I'll replace them with ready spares from the shop "stock". Some of the caps are "rolling" at the edges so no way to know how far they would run before blowing. I'm going to trailer it home the beginning of the week. With the oil pump in the front of the trans and having set so long I really don't want to damage any internals. All eight of my heavy jack stands are holding projects at this time so I guess I'll have to work on the floor, (shame). Then again, good reason to get more stands don't ya think? I'll keep you posted. He did finally say that he would be interested in attending a few shows. Figure we'll make Walcott with this one next year and if I get a trailer bought, haul Momma's A-40 on the same trip. The plans are to actually use this one! Should all go according to plan I'll break the 64 B-61 apart for parts spares as the truck is in very poor condition referring to sheet metal and frame. I had also noticed the intake manifold was the same as my 58 B-61 that is natural aspirated. This truck being a 1962; I was not aware the equal length manifolds were in use yet. The 64 B-61 uses the equal length manifolds. I don't know what the year was of their introduction. Rob

Had to "break down" and take the truck off his hands yesterday. Gentleman would not accept any money and once again said both, "you need that truck" and, "I want you to have it". What's a guy to do? I'll make a spot in the shop and bring it home early next week. Don't want to hook up any electrical juice until I get a look at the wiring due to the mice. Miraculously, the truck does not "stink" like mouse droppings at all, just musty. It looks a lot better rinsed off with a hose!! Think I'll stay with Mack green on this one, but may black the fenders. We'll see. Rob

I have to admit I've entertained the idea of purchasing that truck numerous times but there is a reason I have not and it has nothing to do with "Momma". From the participation on this site, I see there are several persons that like/collect the fire apparatus' that Mack produced. I cannot bring myself to "break apart" something someone else may have an interest in enjoying as is. This comes from the collector/restorer in me. If I had it the cab would go onto another truck I'm working with, and the fire apparatus parts would be donated to another entity that would use them. This truck appears to be worth the money and is too nice in it's present condition to serve my purposes. I hope the party that purchases the unit does it justice. Rob

Hmmm, lets see. You like Mack, and Pete. That must make you a 1/2 bad guy????? Time will correct your ways I'm sure. If you need advice on Pete, talk to Other Dog as he has plenty of walking experience with them things. Welcome to the board!! Rob

If you have 315hp with a 711 at the flywheel and the thing will hold head gaskets, you are doing better than five others (besides myself) could. I could just break 312hp, (calculated) before blowing the head gasket between #2, and #3 cylinder four times before giving up on the project. All clearances were well within spec. I have two 711 engines that have factory conversion turbocharging kits installed. One is a 1964 B-61S, the other a 1962 B-67ST. The former uses a Garrett, the latter a Switzer that is huge. I've don't have the B-67 running as of yet, nor home. The acquisition process was finished just this morning. It has been sitting in the same spot since August, 1999 without being started. http://www.bigmacktrucks.com/index.php?showtopic=10771&st=0&p=40784&fromsearch=1entry40784 Rob

Ah, your just getting started. Don't give up now. Learning is the hardest part, (at least that's what I'm told). Rob

Sandblasting is about the only cost effective way to remove rust on heavy members. Chemical stripping is still a very viable method to remove paint coatings. I prefer the media, or soda blast due to turnaround time, and when wages, and employee costs are included, is less expensive. Either way still requires finish sanding for cleanup after stripping. Glass beads are great for finish work on decorative metal pieces or items sent to be plated. Glass beads are very fragile and do not agressively "eat" away at the surface of what is being blasted. That is why the surface looks dull, and polished when done. I've been evaluating a product called Soy Gel. It is manufactured by a company in Bloomington, IL, (Franmar) and is right on the way to one of my navigation sites. This product is non hazardous, and is made from soybeans. Supposedly it works as well as methylene cloride paint stripper but slower. It also does not require a large area to be covered in plastic to keep evaporation rate down. I've got some sample bottles to test on a truck hood that is original paint, and two repaints. Also it is water neutalized and can be washed down the drain. This says nothing about the stripped paint coating though. I'll keep you posted to it's usefullness. Rob

Better have barrels of money to pay for the barrels of glass beads you will need as it is very slow going...... It would leave a satin finish at a terrific cost. Glass beads are poor at paint removal in comparison to other methods and do not really do well with pitted rush either. It will work, just takes a long time. Rob

Thanks Barry, I'll try later today to call. Sure appreciate it. Rob

Maybe it's time to find a different Cat servicing dealer? Can't make much money while unit is in the shop. Rob

Well we really got into a jamb and I needed help holding the ladder. Tom had said he was "on his way" and upon jumping into his Pete to come over; Well, we know the rest of the story...... Rob