Rob

From a strictly business standpoint I ask the question: Does the total sumation of wages, benefits, wear and tear, and incidental expenditures operating this "fleet" outweigh the cost of absorbing the fines for littering the public thruways? Surmising that it is less expensive to the "bottom line" to pay these employees, leads me to the following analysis and conclusion: If you were to replace that Pete with a truck of "higher standards", (such as Mack) your profits would be of astronomical proportions when compared to todays' operations. "Momma" even agrees. Rob

The truck had just left the septic sludge pit for the town I live in. Stunk to "High Heaven". People still talk about it. Rob

Seen this photo of my RL in 1980 in it's prime being worked. RL797LST in 1980.bmp

If the drivetrains are original to both units about the real only difference would be the RW series truck, (Superliner) will have a two valve, E-6 series engine, where the R688 will have four valve heads. They are both dependable engines as far as I'm familiar. I'm certain the four valve heads would be a little more efficient in usage, but depending on your usage of the truck it may or may not deliver better economy. Rob

That's at the time of trip departure. At arrival from the dead head trip, the Pete weighs bout 2/3rd's starting weight due to fuel burn and parts falling off of it....... Rob

My Dodge is a V10 Gasser. At the time I purchased the truck new in March, 1996, there was only one station in town that had diesel, and I wouldn't let the owner, (whom is an inbred son-of-a-bitch) lick the sweat off of my scrotum on a sweltering summer day. Hence, I opted for gasoline power. Did I mention I don't like him?; (the inbred part is true incidently, a product of his mother and uncle) I tried a Ford product once. Hard a hard time driving it straight down the road as my gut would completely encase the lower part of the steering wheel with the "tilt" all the way up. The cab was deemed "too small". The "trusty, yet crusty" Dodge is much larger in the interior with adequate clearance. Rob

Generally the lower gauges were illuminated by the upper gauges through the slots you have noticed. I think there was a bulb each for the tach, speedo, and one each for the other pairs of gauges. I don't know how your dash is setup so can't tell you for sure. Gas and diesel powered trucks were different, (sometimes). Rob

Dodge. Bigger cab.

If it passes air at any time it needs a rebuild. I can send you the proceedure if needed. I think I've got it scanned already. Rob

That has enough room for two watermelons. Rob

I've got an engine I'm going to use for parts. Let me check on it to see if it can help you. Rob

As Herb said your problem could be the throttle arm no making full travel. That arm is spring dampened and the springs do get weak with time. I'm not sure if it comes apart or not as I've always just replaced the assembly complete. I would consider replacing this as preventative maintenance. Rob

As a general matter of pricipals I would go ahead and rebuild both the "Selectair" valve, and the shift cylinders in on the transmission top cover. I don't know what year of truck yours' is but the shift cylinders rebuild the same. The earlier transmissions had to have the main fork adjusted for the neutral position, the latter ones did not. If your truck is losing air pressure quite rapidly when the engine is not running, spray the shifter valve, and all fittings, regulators, cylinders etc. looking for a leak. Most times when the shift cylinders are leaking internally they dump air into the transmission case. If you remove one bolt that retains the top cover of the transmission and listen closely, you can hear it. Spray soap on the missing bolt hole and look for bubbles. There should be three regulators on the top of the transmission also. I think their output pressures are about 60-65 psi and this is adequate to operate the trans in any weather. Both Mack, and PAI have rebuild kits put together. The labor only takes a couple of hours to accomplish once the center floorpan is removed from the truck. There are too many small parts to monkey with to not go with a pre packaged kit. I think mine were about 70.00 for both kits and a transmission top cover gasket. When you've got the trans apart, look at the shifting fork for wear/damage. That SOB is expensive but it's not a high wear item from what I've seen. Rob

Can you send me a photo? I'm not quite sure what is going on there. Rob

The wheel has oval "hand holes". Rob

Thanks Glenn, I'll call my pump shop in the morning. If they don't have a chart for the correct thickness rings, I'll get the dimensions from Mack. Thanks, Rob

Do you guys usually paint the injector bodies with anti-sieze before installing them into the heads? I've taken them out of different engines and sometimes they're covered, sometimes not. I know the reasoning behind it to keep them from freezing in the hole, but is a light coat of anti-sieze good enough, or do they need covered? Where would be a good place to purchase injector copper rings in bulk? Thanks, Rob

Hi Grant, don't be afraid to warm the housing with a propane torch. The cast iron both the housing and cover are made of will stick together due to rust over the years. I wouldn't use acetylene to heat as there is too much of a good thing there sometimes...... When you have the parts warm, rap on the pump housing with a plastic face hammer from any direction available and it will come loose. It is much easier when the engine is out of a chassis such as yours is. If you remember to paint it correctly before reassembly, you will never have a problem again!! Remember to use the right color!!! Rob

Grant, I warmed the shaft on mine with a propane torch to expand it, then sprayed a penetrant oil on the pin area before it cooled. I think the oil is sucked into the interference fit of the pin and hole. The pin drove right out and was reused when put back together. Spray it "Dog Dick Pink" and it will jump out of there for you!! Rob

No problem either. Rob

That would be called uncontrolled harmonics, (vibration) which is exactly what breaks most crankshafts. An inline six cylinder has a power pulse every 120 degrees of crankshaft rotation. These power pulses passed to the crankshaft are amplified in force with the application of the driver's foot asking for more power. The vibration dampner, (harmonic balancer is more of a correct term) on the front of the crankshaft absorbs some of this vibration, therby changing the resonant frequency, the crankshaft is vibrating at. A worn balancer allows this high frequency vibration to go uncontrolled and sets up torsional stresses in the rotating crankshaft. When either the sixth, or 12th harmonic frequency is acheived, crankshaft breakage occurs due to fracture at the molecular level of the steel. Basically the same way a piece of glass breaks due to high frequency soundwaves. Rob

I cranked my 866 engine with the engine stop pulled out till oil pressure stabilized. It sat for nine solid, (possibly more) years without being touched outside. Rob

I had no problems getting the seals needed for my V8 at an industrial seal supplier. If you have problems I'll replicate the order and get them for you. Real easy job to do once off the engine. Just be easy on the impeller wheel as Bad Dog mentioned. Rob

That was my take using the limited analytical skills I possess; and was from very deep in the cold storage locker. Project R-12 has the same setup I discovered tonight with left hand slacks. I've never adjusted the brakes on that truck. Rob

Yes and you will have a film build up on the inside of the windows too. If the windows look like you smoke in the cab but do not, be sure to check for HVAC system integrity. Clamps leak more often than thought as the rubber hoses age. Rob