Rob

Hi Herb, I know now, only takes one "experience" to learn. I'd never seen that before and by figured it had to be a front drive axle thing as the rears rotated in what I thought was the correct direction. I had started to adjust with the rear rear and thought nothing about it being different and apparently never looked as the cam rotated. The truck has new shoes on the rears at all corners. Boy was I surprised when I applied the brakes in a gravel parking lot and was skidding the front tires and freewheeling the rears! I later discovered the rear rear relay valve to be frozen and not passing air also so absolutely no brakes on the rear! Rob

Has anybody seen slack adjusters that were turned to the left to tighten the brakes? My 78 Mack does. When I got the truck the prior owner stated he had just adjusted the brakes up and when I drove it, no brakes!! Turning the adjusters to the left brought them right up against the drums. All my others turn to the right to tighten. These have the hex head and one uses the box of the end wrench to depress the lock before turning the hex. Rob

You may be in luck. She is about to dispatch another boyfriend. Always has liked her "down time"; Impede that, your done. I'll keep you posted. Rob

Yes they are heavy. I made a plate that bolts to the saddle of my transmission floor jack to support the weight. It uses an old input shaft to center the discs. After clutch buildup I remove this adapter, set the trans on the jack, and go abouts it. No doubt about anything being heavy to work with. Rob

Are you sure it is an Eaton/Fuller transmission with the rear engine support mounted to the transmission? I've only seen Mack transmissions using this setup. Eaton/Fuller usually use the rear mounts attached to the flywheel housing leaving the engine supported while the transmission is removed from the chassis. Rob

Agree. Wasn't Jersey on of the most liberal of states allowing heavy haulage and recently changing it's laws? It seems to be comming to a time where the politicians specifically want you to purchase an extra exhorbitant priced permit do be 1/2 way profitable. Around here the heavy lift crane companies don't even license their motor cranes. They just purchase temporary permits to allow them to move to jobsites due to cost as it's much less expensive. I would love to have one of those RD-822's cause they have the "look" I prefer, but that's not reality. Not picking on that vendor at all in prior posts. I'm sure he is a very nice man/person. His concept of reality seems to be a bit off center when it comes to resaling items though. If you read through his initial advertisements they start out as "Please understand I do not own this etc...". Nothing hidden or covered up, just overpriced. It is like real estate transactions; You want to realize the greatest revenue from the sale of a property. Usually the purchaser "negotiates" an acceptable monetary amount for the transaction to proceed. Most times it is quite a bit less than the initial "asking, or listed" price. Just like automobiles. Hell, if you were to offer $40,000 each for the trucks, you may be able to barter them up to $60,000 each. You never know. The vendor is a professional reseller and has no interest or care about what happens to the items after the sale is complete and his commission check is received/cleared. Rob

Hey Herb, is there any difference in the cranks from an EM6-300, E6-350, and an ENDT-676? I've got a friend with two R model mixers, (great shape) with busted cranks. I can buy the trucks right and have a couple of cranks from various engines; Don't even ask what Momma thinks!! I know one of the mixers has the dampner comming apart and they kept running it knowing the problem existed!! Rob

Everything that vendor lists is exhorbitantly priced. You will see it again because it will not sell and be broken into smaller segments. Remember the "thousands" of B model parts in trailers, and buildings? Same vendor. Eventually pieced out over time. Those RD-822's in total are probably worth about $60,000 each on the high side. Too specialized for most. Rob

The few truck shows that I've been to I have met some really nice folks. Nothing like the car shows that I used to attend for the most part. Of course there are always going to be some that care about nothing but themselves and/or equipment. Those are usually the type that paid for the restoration or the commonly referred to "Checkbook Builders". Never really cared for that much myself either; Too shallow. The ones I truly enjoy speaking with, (and admire) are those that have an open photo album, or story showing phases of the restoration they actively participated in. There are some good stories about triumphs, failures, and lessons learned. It would be foolish to expect every truck that showed up with a beautiful paint job to be 100% completed by the owner. Some things we do not have experience with and it's best to sublet that type of work. I like the personal touches applied to a restoration; some ideas I like, some not, but respect them all. If the gent walked off in the middle of a conversation it is probably because he seen someone he knows, or is very tired of telling the same stories over and over. I've spoken with people and they do get tired of that, but if it becomes troublesome, or lessens the enjoyment of those that come to admire/gaze upon their work, they should probably switch hobbies. While it's true that telling a single person something in the small town I live in the whole world eventually knows, it is not always the case. Personally, I enjoy talking about trucks, (mine and others) and helping others with theirs. Rob

The problem you explain sounds more like carburation than fuel pump related. It sounds like the float bowl is draining. If it is Zenith carb, the two brass screws/caps in the lower part of the float bowl could be leaking. Rob

Hi Herb, now I follow. I was thinking the housing and main case did not separate although I should have known because I've physically unbolted them in the past. The memory I retain is slipping I guess. Thanks, Rob

Hi Herb, did the later "Maxitorque" transmissions use SAE flywheel housing mounts and get away from the transmission case boss mounts? I've never seen a Mack trans use the flywheel housing to mount to, only seen the SAE mounts used with Spicer, and Fuller transmissions. I've not been around anything newer than 1985 though. Rob

I've ridden in a couple of trucks with air ride on the steer axle and it can be nice. It works better with double shock absorbers. I've also talked to people that have doubled up the front shock absorbers on spring due to short life as you speak of. With the shock doubled, the failure rate goes away. Rob

I thought I'd read it was incompatible someplace but was unsure if it were all "in my head", (you know how much resides there). I'm building an engine stand to run engines on prior to installation and now may use the lower structural tubes as a fuel tank. I have a remote mount hand pump for priming. This galvanized tank is clean as it was the "potable" water storage for the camper. Thanks for the help. Rob

Does anybody know if a galvanized steel tank can be used to store diesel fuel? I have a nice 35 gallon water tank from an older camper that we tore apart and this tank would be great to use for a temp fuel source on an engine test stand. I know a lot of fuel tanks are galvanized in gasoline applications, but I've never seen a truck tank for diesel galvanized. They are either aluminum, mill finish steel, or plastic. Thanks, Rob

You will most likely be fabricating your mounts to the frame. I would obtain from a yard the mounts on the transmission. You can utilize the original frame bracket mounting holes in that scenario. Fabricating the mounts is not difficult with patience. Very few Maxidyne series drivetrains were put into B models. Those that were were a "test bed" as I understand for the concept. Rob

Ran the overhead last evening and some of the Dynatard equipt exhaust valves were WAY off!! I assume they were adjusted incorrectly the last time as when some cylinders were supposed to be at TDC, there was over .100 clearance to them. The engine is much more responsive now but still "stumbles" a bit on acceleration. By this I mean it is not really "snappy" to the throttle as my other V8's are such as retarded timing. I had a hell of a time finding the timing marks on the dampner. This truck sat for many years and the marks are faintly stamped into the circumference of the dampner and cannot be read. Once I discerned the correct "hash marks" at 90 degree intervals, it was then onto figuring out which one to start with. The numbers no longer exist as this thing is as pitted as a piece of raw sheet metal that has sat outside for 10 years in the weather. Think I'll paint it "Dog Dick Pink" to demonstrate to Grant he should follow suit. Rob

And if that 10 speed is a good transmission I would be interested in it. Going to a Fuller/Eaton trans will require different mounts for the rear of the engine to frame. Mack transmissions use frame mount to transmission case mounting where the others use frame to flywheel housing on the engine mounting. All mounts should be readily available through a truck salvage yard as Fuller tranmissions in "newer" Mack chassis were a common affair. The shifter handle, and altering the length of the driveshaft will also need to be acquired/performed. I've done the same thing that you propose only replacing a five speed Mack transmission with a 13 speed Fuller. I purchased everything needed from a yard so there is no "hunting" to take place. This was the least expensive way to do it by far. Rob

My 74 RL797L with an ENDT866B engine will run 2350rpm all day. It idles right at 650rpm steady. If you crank the fuel, ensure you have a working pyrometer and use it. I purchased the last lower gasket set for that engine in Mack's worldwide inventory; There are no more available with the exception of having them custom made, ($$$). Hard parts are following the same path so try not to break things. Rob

I would have to have a heavy spec, treadplate fender Autocar with a large Cummins. Never have had a Cummins engine before and assuming I would like it. Rob

Be easy on it. Parts are expensive and no sense trashing something that is good. That is a good transmission not designed to perform as you propose, although I've seen several do it. Rob

There is not a thing in the world to feel bad about. As they say: "Shit Happens". We all lived to tell the story. No harm, no foul. We all share the dissapointment but look forward to next years trip. We are splitting the pizza next year!! Rob

Thanks for answering fjh. I'm going to run the overhead on one tonight and will check mine while apart. Is there a ring, or rebuild kit available that should be installed as a "normal" maintenance item? Rob

I have two 866 V8's with "Dynatard" and have never pulled a load with either truck. They do not work bad empty, and there is a definate restriction in something when they are turned on during deceleration. I've never driven anything with a "Jacobs" engine brake so have nothing to compare to. I don't know if they would "click" or not with voltage applied to them. Never have tried it. I know that the solenoid allows oil pressure to build in the rocker assembly to force the tappets to follow a second grind profile on the camshaft altering cam timing, and turning the engine into a compressor working against itself. Think I'll pick another color for the V-12 over pink myself. The engine has always been gray, so it will probably stay that way with chromed valve covers, and not much else. It should stand out on it's own....... The pressure loss would be neglible with the hose routing for the intake air to the compressor from the turbocharger. I've seen them routed both on the suction side, and discharge side.

Those "sensors" are the electrical connections for the "Dynatard" engine brake. They are the connection point for the wiring to attach. On the underside of the valve covers will be the solenoids to operate the brake. The turbocharger hose routing is correct as I remember from my setup. "Dog Dick Pink"? I've always heard it another way and that you "had it licked" once you got past the smell. Rob