Rob

I will get you some numbers from an AMBAC pump book today to have your injection pump calibrated to. Your existing pump will have 11mm plungers and barrels, and the existing injectors should recalibrate to match the new pump output characteristics with minor parts replacement. I will also include the injector numbers suited to the pump output you will be emulating. It is getting difficult to obtain some of the parts for the governor section, but a good pump shop can build/modify existing parts to work. If doing the work yourself, be careful following internet advise as there is much erroneous in nature posted routinely. The turbocharger would best be changed as the "mapping" of the original is incorrect for the recalibration. However, it would still work in the application. What transmission are you running? A five or a six speed would best be replaced with a nine, 10, or 13 speed with the revamped power output of the engine although either of the aforementioned will work. This work you are wanting to accomplish is not something you do in a bench vise with a hammer, screwdriver, pliers, and crescent wrench, but will require a fuel shop or you stand a real good chance of a short lived engine.

In the mail as they say and you should see it on Tuesday. Don't think for a minute that box of "extra" old parts and fuel tanks were not appreciated. Most have been reutilized by myself or other restorers. Nothing has been resold as I don't work like that. That little girl is quite special to us so we grab her at every opportunity available. Hope you get good use of the flare set. I never needed them so the dirt could be original from years ago. I've carried them behind the seat in "Krusty" since March of 1996 and it's been longer that that since they'd seen the light of day. Give your family my best.

Brad; Grandaughter and I are going for a bicycle ride later this morning to mail bills off at the post office. One of our monthly "together" times. I have the reflector set boxed and am going to ship it this morning as can't guarantee I'll be by your way anytime soon. Rob

Found this in the shop today: Still about 1/2 full, or 1/2 empty, (whichever way you look at it).

I did last year with nothing available. VanderHaags had a used one they were going to look into and were supposed to call back but I never heard anything so figured it wasn't any good. I should probably try them again. Thanks, I see this on their website but I think, (not sure) I have the different torque rod attachment: https://mandersdiesel.com/mack-crd-93-3-65.html

I'd like to obtain a replacement plastic face plate for my 1980 R model. It is factory air conditioned but busted up badly. Don't know if available new or not but I'm missing some of the rotary discharge air discharge vents also: My son is a woodworker and has offered to reproduce the faceplate in wood which I'm sure would look nice. I have a complete later style HVAC unit from a 1989 salvaged R model cab, but would rather stay original if possible.

I'm still on the hunt for a rear rear differential in 3.65 ratio. It must be an iron differential carrier as it's for an air ride setup. Once a rear rear is located I'll have a front rear to sale, or trade.

I'll drop it by the shop next time I'm up that way. My son now lives in Wheaton so don't go over on 20 any longer, but I'll chart a path before the holiday visit. I have some other older IH items so I'll look to see if you can use any of them. Rob

The maintenance is more than all of us put together could afford.

Hey Brad; Can you use this for any of your IH trucks? These were original to my 1965 R-190 which I've had since 1974. Never been out of the box I know of in all the years. Rob

That is very correct but they require what I consider "routine maintenance" to have a long lifespan. Most didn't get anything till failure so caught a bad rap, (my opinion). A 12V 40MT, nor 50MT starter on my 1693TA engine does not spin the engine near as well as it's original s/p setup. Only matters in very cold weather and nothing referenced is a working truck any longer I own.

I'm going to try a 39MT on my B-61ST which is still 24V start. I have several s/p switches around the shop and really don't have a lot of problems, but it's nice to simplify in wiring along the way when modernizing. The 82 E6-350 in my B-61 has a "Prestolite" starter which is 12V so going to convert that truck first although it always started fine with it's s/p switch which is original from 1957 and rebuilt by me in the early 80's.

The TRDL-1071 with the 23:1 reduction low gear was great for the lower horespower and smaller drivelines of the time.

Post up your numbers which are stamped into the rear rear axle housing on the right side looking from the back. With these the suspension can be identified and drilled down to corresponding parts you are inquiring about.

39MT is a newer permanent magnet gear reduction type starter. It is quite a bit lighter than the much older 40MT, and somewhat newer 42MT. Both of the older units are very heavy and any of the three will serve your purpose. I have three 40MT series with the heavy duty eight brush commutators and they are trouble free.

Could be either a single, or double reduction differential originally. Do yo have the driveshaft available with the truck? If so and you'll relay the distance from the center of the rear universal joint to the rear end housing face, one can figure out what was originally there. Most likely a dual reduction unit as several were. There may be stampings on the right axle tube viewed from the rear also that would identify it.

Nothing recent but I did have a B-42 on the inverted "Camelback" suspension back in 1977. It did ride quite well in a straight line but this one needed rebushed terrible so was sloppy in road manners and braking was very "clunky" upon initial application. I have two B-61 tractors with 34k "Camelback" which are tight and the ride would be what I'd say is comparable to the two suspensions. It is much softer, and better in ride quality than the 38k R models I currently have.

39MT, 40MT, or 42MT clockwise rotation, 11 tooth starter drive pinion is the starter series you'll require for that conversion.

common to the 1972 and older R685 series with ENDT-675 engine.

I've had three of my trucks do that. Usually have to select reverse in neutral, then pull shifter into gear. Sometimes have to do the same to shift from reverse back to forward too. Problems were always pronounced when cold. As stated remove top cover and install all new O rings and I'd wager your problems will go away.

You won't have vacuum chambers at the wheel ends. Either pressure chambers, (push type) or hydraulic wheel cylinders.

He's after the front member the yoke supporting the front engine mount rests upon.

Here is a link to Haldex chambers and an explanation of them: https://www.haldex.com/en/na/actuators/service-chamber-brakes-t09-through-t20/ These things are available all over the places and prices go from very inexpensive to exorbitant so shop around. If the truck is going to be used try to purchase something that is epoxy or powder coated to hold up to the effects of heat and corrosion. If a show truck or non working type you can use basically about anything out there. I have personally changed several chambers rusted through on working trucks that were the yellow cadmium plated and are available all over the internet.

A TRW/Ross HF64 series, or Sheppard M100 would go on there and both were common to the truck series in those days. The existing steering gear is a "Gemmer" which was purchased by TRW/Ross.

Excellent work: https://www.rochesterclutch.com/