Rob

Never heard of em unless they are referred to by a different name in these parts. Rob

Had a real good time visiting with family that was distant. Went to a campground on Illinois' largest man made lake down at Carlysle. Too damn many people though due to the holiday. As far as roadkill, well didn't have any as Momma said "standard life" was off for the weekend. Momma's uncle did bring down some unshucked sweet corn and we smeared it deeply in river bottom mud and threw it in the campfire for fifteen minutes to cook. It was really good believe it or not when removed, and shucked. We then came up with the idea to "net" a wild turkey and cook it the same way; It wasn't any good and I've had gas, and heartburn ever since. Made me wish I'd had some of Other Dog's mushrooms instead. Rob

So you never did get that tube out eh? Rob

Sometimes it's best to get out early so you don't spend time in prison for murder. Rob

I got one like that also. Usually run her out of the room cause when she blows, I cannot smell myself any longer. Rob

On those manual pumps don't pump like there is no tomorrow. Slow, steady, and deliberate strokes is what it takes to fill the cavities. I've seem people really go to town and what they are doing is "cavitating" the fuel due to the air in the line and this defeats the purpose you are trying to attain. Rob

I've had very good luck with Napthalene, (moth balls) for long term storage if they are kept fresh by changing them quarterly. Then you need to let the vehicle "air out" for several hours/days till usage. To rid an infested vehicle I use "smoke bombs" inside the passenger compartment that are placed into a two foot section of pipe with a cap on one end to contain the flame. Rodents do not like smoke at all and they will scurry when they get a wiff of it. Do this out of doors. As you mention the infestation will take place in your new shop if done inside. A steam cleaner/wrinkle remover such as used in a garment or drapery cleaning establishment works well also without any residual smell. I splattered a pregnant female rat with a 4.10 shotgun in the shop a couple years ago. It was a mess and I had it cleaned up with a steam cleaner. Little bitch was "sashaying" across the shop and walked into the perimeter of the open overhead door where I blasted her. Rob

Momma is taking me away on a camping trip. Probably be some new types of vittles available along the way. I'll check back in on Moday night. Enjoy the holiday. Rob

Nothing available from NAPA. I've got a name for the guy whom rebuilt mine and will send it to you the first of the week as the info is on my work computer. Rob

They are correct and believe it or not, very good just as picked. When sliced and diced, they go well with groundhog ribs too. Rob

If it is a Ross steering gear, the tube does not come out until you dissassemble the steering gear. Remove the steering wheel, block the rear of the cab and roll it backwards on the blocks. When rolled backward as much as possible, lift at that angle and massage cab until you clear the steering tube. Set cab on floor, cuss, then figger out the next step. Not that difficult, just different. Rob

What part of the state are you from? Rob

Get yourself a 2500 ufd, 50VDC capacitor and tie one lead to your power wire leading to the radio, the other lead to a good chassis ground. What you are hearing with the key in the "on" position is the electronics, (ECM) that let the engine run. The shielding for RF energy is terrible in the automotive world and the spurious noise you are hearing is resonating through the truck's electrical system. Noisy, low buck components contribute to the phenomenon as does the alternator magnetic fields. There is not very much powered up when the keyswitch is in the "accessory" position, mainly the engine ECM, and the alternator charging circuit. This noise is easily "shorted" to ground potential with a capacitor. When you tie one leg of a cap to the electrical signal and the other to ground the spurious noise will pass through the capacitor allowing a "smoother" DC voltage to pass to the radio power supply. By law consumer electronics have to accept any outside interference of RF energy or be licensed such as powerful radio transmitters. A citizens band radio is limited in it's power output and therfore immune to government intervention. An automotive "noise filter" that you would purchase at a stereo store is nothing more than the above mentioned item in a fancy case. If you can't hide the capacitor out of sight, these a good way to go. Don't eat Other Dogs' mushrooms. I hear he is looking for test subjects. Rob

I haven't figgered a good reason to do the socializing pages thing. I just pick up the phone and call when I need to yak. Don't really need to gossip, so don't have the desire. Rob

Just below the box at the upper right that says "Search" is the statement "View New Content". It is the same as the old "view new posts". Rob

All the while holding their supervisors hostage. Rob

Be careful about eating those in the yard. They have not been tested and certified "fit for human consumption" by anyone. Unlike my prepared dishes which are tested, and tasted by myself and certified "delicious, and nutritious" and rightfully deserving of the "dish of the year" Blue Ribbon, you may never know what those mushrooms have been exposed to. They are a Fungus after all. Be careful there, sure wouldn't want you to get sick or anything like that. Rob

You're not allergic or anything like that to mushrooms are you? I can alter the proportions to accomodate if need be for you. Rob

Yepper. Got the rolling "meat locker" out of storage. Was headed down to the river as the fish aint a bitin due to the cool weather, so a fisherman had to dynamite them, and got more than he bargained for. The state hi-way that runs alongside the bank was covered with fish chunks so I get called to clean it up. After grabbin my new aluminum scoop shovel, truck and drivin down there, I was able to scrape up much needed fish parts for a new batter that I been workin on. There was so many fish parts that I spent great effort of about 1/2 hour scraping them up. I just hate when things go to waste. It only got to about 80 degrees today so pretty sure nothing spoiled in the back of the truck. Plan to unload today and I'll let you know how the batter turns out. Rob

Hi Skip, I've not looked into modifying anything to accept different liners and yes, pistons can be made in any stroke of combination you could want. It is however, expensive to attain. The sealing gaskets and rings are not too difficult to obtain as they can be manufactured by Olson's gaskets. I imaging a set of pistons would run in the neighborhood of a couple thousand dollars, (US) but it has been many years since I've been down that road. Keep your eyes open for parts and I'll do the same. I've called a guy that I used to chat with that ran Mack but have not heard back from him; Need to follow up. Keep the faith, we'll persevere. Rob

A 30/30 is physically too large to fit in the space on B series rear tandem axles. If they have been swapped to another later style, or modified, they would be the ones to go with. The Rotochambers are a type "20" originally and the 24/24 is a larger diaphragm area from the start. With spring brakes it requires air pressure to release the brakes by compressing the spring that holds the shoes applied to the drums. In operation you push, pull, slide, flip, (depends on type of valve) to apply air to the parking brake side. The service brake side does not have air applied until you press on the brake pedal. You then apply air pressure against a second diaphragm to apply the service brakes. The Bendix site is good at showing how to lay out the air lines. The tank reservoir should hold the air pressure unless there is a leak someplace. Rob

That is an alcohol injector for the purpose you asked. They work well. It wouldn't be a bad idea to add an air dryer to the sytem but not needed for a hobby truck, (my opinion). Rob

If you have the 34,000, or 38,000 pound rears with either no, or a stamped steel backing plate for the brake drums; A type 24/24 spring brake chamber will bolt right up using all the existing hardware. Assuming you have this setup, your current brake chambers, (rotochambers) will be replaced with the much more readily available standard brake chambers. The bolt pattern is standard for those sizes. You will need to plumb in a parking brake valve and the associated hoses to supply, and release the air needed to operate the parking brake feature but that is not hard. An easy to follow diagram is located on the Bendix website. I don't know off the top of my head where it is but starting at bendix.com you can find it. Rob

I meant no offense in my reply and hope none was taken. I do not compromise on safety issues with either replacement, or repair. Too much at stake for guesswork in these areas. One has to be cognizant of this "sue happy" society we exitst in. I've seen several tanks lap welded with a patch over the top of weakened areas. I suppose that is alright and has worked but I still would rather replace the defective unit if ithe choice were mine. Piece of mind goes a long way sometimes. Rob

You could do that but I wouldn't. Think about the area that is leaking; The metal is thinning due to decomposition and this is where the leak started. You could open the hole up a little larger and install the screw and sealer and it may hold, but if it doesn't, you have no brakes, and are stranded, usually at a less than opportune timeframe. I'm not accustomed to half assing any type of repair so may be just a bit biased. Rob