Rob

Thanks for posting that. I now have a better understanding of how to use this tool and properly match the speed to the effective hardness of the baseplate material in which I am attempting to bore a hole into. It should serve to extend the service life of the multipoint tool in current use. Rob

It's a little different format to follow but it will work as we get used to it. Rob

Hi Skip, hard parts for those engines are getting scarce. I have several and they are becomming parts engines as time goes by. Head gaskets and upper sets are still available but a lower set is not. I've tried North America, South America, and Australia, and Germany with no such luck of any parts. I've not looked into used, or NOS on someone's shelf yet. I did speak with Olson's gaskets and they can make the gasket set without problem but it is about $330.00. That is not out of line on pricing and about retail on the OEM Mack set when it was available through them. PM me a list of what you are after and I'll do some investigating on this end about having some parts made. If I but some sets maybe we can get the cost a little more in reason. We are not the only ones wanting to stay with these engines. Rob

Hi there, I believe from your model number breakdown the truck was originally a single driver axle unit using lightweight, (aluminum) components in places. Rob

Hey Barry, It's a Pete thing; We wouldn't understand...... LOL!! Rob

I debated heavily between this one and the Milwaukee brand I was looking at as per Thads' suggestion. This drill is considerably lighter in weight, and is two speed. I really like the option of hooking a bug sprayer up to it to use coolant when drilling in the horizontal position. The next purchase for this thing is to be a reversable tapping head. Good friend of mine is a tool and cutter grinder and will make me the correct size broaches for any size hole I will need. I'll tell you it literally "walks" through mild steel. Thanks, Rob

Bought a magnetic drill a couple of months ago so finally broke down and spent the money for the bits. These are all "Jancy" brand, (USA) and 2" depth of cut. Should last a good long time. I wanted to go with the "Rotobroach" series from Hougen but the cost for the same set was a couple hundred dollars more and no better in quality, (my opinion). The drill is a 505 series "Hougen". It has coolant feed available through the spindle via an external pressure bottle. That should help the bits to stay sharp a good long time. Now I need to get the special "body bound bolts" for locating the air ride suspension under my daughters truck as my excuses for putting the truck off are running thin....... Rob

Econodyne series. Rob

Although prolly wrong as usual, I think that truck has both a front, and rear axle. If this thought is proven to be correct, Wouldn't that mean that was a two axle truck instead of a single axle? As usual, I'm so confused. Rob

Does that mean your memory is bad? Now I must go find my ass as I've misplaced it yet again. Rob

If your shutterstat is working and the engine temp does not climb to normal, the shutters will remain closed. A combination of exhaust of air pressure, and spring tension return the shutters to their default position which is open. The shutterstat dumps the air pressure that closes the shutters. Rob

Put new packings in the shutter cylinder while it is off the truck. If it has not been used in a while it will leak and then you get to screw up your new paint job to fix it. Rob

Just re-read your original post and now see you were not referring to your pump. The one in the linked photo is a Woodward setup where yours' is not. I don't know if a jackshaft of some sort was on your throttle linkage to set the high speed idle via mechanical linkage but that cable/ring had to go someplace. Rob

I actually did see you when you were there. Dumping into the paver box. I didn't know it was you and never really paid attention to that project. Road sure is nice now. My shop cat became road kill on the new pavement less than a week after it was laid down....... Wasn't enough left good to cook so scooped him up and he now rests under the large tree. That rt. 78 has been brutal on animals through the years. Rob

From the angle of the photo it does appear that the mating surface is "scrubbed off" a bit on the inside. This may or may not be a factor as those surfaces are not a load bearing member when the bushings are good. Cracks are what I've replaced the lower saddles for. I believe is the main reason for replacement in the shops. Rob

That's it. The house is empty and we are getting ready to re-side and re-roof to use for rental property. I closed the body shop after my daughter graduated college so reconfiguring that daily. Rob

I've heard the same thing you mention. You should have stopped in as I'm right on rt. 78. Steel tu-tone gray building 1.3 miles south of town. Rob

Northern Illinois Mack by chance? Rob

Most likely the governor is needing work if you do not have a problem with power. The pins and bushings that support the flyweights, along with the springs wear with time. You may be able to set the idle a little higher than it is right now to keep it running. I've had a couple that idled erratically and had both governors rebuilt to repair the problem. One was surging about 200 rpm, (but never died), the other would not idle without your foot on the pedal unless the idle screw was about 800 rpm. In both cases the pins and bushings mentioned earlier were well worn. Only bad thing is that some of those parts are getting scarce. A good pump shop will make the needed parts from stock materials. Good luck. Rob

Photo is of my Midliner Mack that was a rollback just prior to new owner picking it up. Sure missed as it was a good truck. Rob

Mine is never big enough either. I'm getting rid of a lot of automobile items that have been "saved" and a lot of room is becomming available. I don't have walls and the 12' figure is just a reference. It takes about 1.5 stalls to work on a car and this ordeal will probably be about the same but the shop equipment is larger, as are the parts. If I had walls to deal with I would not be able to get by the truck as I'm bigger than 24" in diameter as it is. All of my trucks take up at least 24' of a stall but I'm looking to use the building for a different purpose than it was purpose built for. Don't want to modify the property because when I retire from the job, do not plan to stay in this locale. Multiple overhead doors on a long sidewall would be great but really not an option to me. Once the addition is erected, I won't have many problems as storage will be available. If I just could bring myself to let things sit outside and deteriorate naturally all would be normal. You prolly realize that me and normal would not a harmonious relationship however. I'm just searching for ideas at this point. My paint room is much too small to routinely do trucks so that may be demolished and another built in the storage area. It has it's own heat source so could operate when needed only. This in itself would gain another stall area. When I relocate one of the surface mount car lifts, another stall space opens up. There is all kinds of room to be had. I've just not been in that mode for a number of years. I designed, purchased, erected, and wired this building myself and it is purpose built. Thought I'd want to work cars until I passed but with the body shop having served it's purpose, my priorities have changed. I could either sell the property, or do what I want and have postponed for several years: Restore trucks; (sick, ain't I)? Rob

It DEPENDS. I've got little to support after the last "go-round" with Momma and the carpenters knife. Besides that, I don't watch TV. To many years I watched that damned thing suck the brains out of my kids' heads so it seldom is turned on anymore. Rob

Newer vehicles have vented fuel caps for this purpose. Does at least one of your fuel tanks have a vent? If it does and is clogged you could have the symptoms you do now. I'm assuming both tanks are full to be pushing out both sides. Only one vent is required if the crossover tube and valves are open. Rob

Hi Doug, mine is 70' wide and 100' deep. I did set it up for cars at 25' deep, 10' wide stalls with the 18' center aisle. It actually worked pretty good but the trucks are longer of course. I can back all the way into a stall now and have plenty of room to open a hood but it protrudes into the aisle. Working by myself, or with a single helper this will not be a problem. Thanks, Rob

Forgot the air freshener. My flatulance does not set well with housewives. Rob