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Everything posted by Rob
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Greetings From Sheboygan, Wi:
Rob replied to Rob's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Actually they would. They are posts before the rectifier so the conversion would be simplified and external. I'll see if I can locate my print next week and send it over to you. The conversion is easily done. Getting in the car, headed to Herb's in a couple of minutes. Herb; Start the grille, I've got the sauce. Rob -
Greetings From Sheboygan, Wi:
Rob replied to Rob's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Two of three days down in the training. One more full one to go. Plan to leave school right at 4:00pm and drive to Herb's place. I'm not gonna eat tomorrow as to be sure I can savor the regional delicacies that have been afforded me. I've got a 20 gallon kettle of special sauce brewing right now, so we should be "good to go". Rob -
Greetings From Sheboygan, Wi:
Rob replied to Rob's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
If all you want to do is keep the lights on in the winter time I can convert your alternator on the A30 to produce 12vac power with the flip of a switch, then go back to producing 12vdc again by flipping the switch back. If you have at least a 65 amp "Delcotron" it will work fine. Incadescent lamps are purely a resistive load and the frequency does not matter for their operation, voltage does and this can be regulated easily. Rob -
I had always ran either Baldwin, Wix, Hastings, or Purolator on my vehicles through the years with no problems either. I've had two "Fram" filters in the shop on customers cars that the filters have leaked at the crimp and have seen them with my own two eyes so there is not much I'll say good about them. They are sold at Wal-Mart, and other cheap stores as they should be. As said I've never had oil filter problems myself, but the way Baldwin Filters stood behind their product in this one instance, (although several years ago) is enough to make me shy away from them now. I know the man very well and doubt he would "pad", or exaggerate his story to make it sound good. This is especially true when the money had to be taken away from other things to pay for the repair with barely avoiding bankruptcy protection to get through it. Rob
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I'll have to get Momma one of those dresses. Rob
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Now Matt, had you waited till next week when your new Volvo tractor was delivered, you would have averaged 23.5mpg on cruise with the a/c running, and the trip would have made a handsome profit, all the while emmiting zero emmisions. Just think of the satisfaction, and release of tension driving your new truck will instill. When you do need to casually stop for fuel, you will be the envy of all truckers trying to scrape by with lesser equipment. Rob
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That little tube you mention is the overflow tube. It should have a rubber hose attached to it and run alongside the radiator core to drip on the ground if too much coolant is in the system due to expansion. It is soldered in place and due to vibration, they can crack, or the brass/copper the radiator is made of can be in a state of weakening due to deterioration. Best to pull the radiator and take it to a shop to be repaired/recored. The radiator is not difficult to remove after you remove the grille surround. If you remove your fender closing panels there are two cap screws, one per side close to the radiator shell the must be removed. There are then four capscrews across the top of the grille surround you remove next. Then remove the two bolts at the lower part of this shell across the front. The shell will then pull forward from the truck. You can then remove the eight large headed shoulder bolts that retain the radiator to the support but drain and remove the hoses from the cooling system before you do this. Have help when you go to pull the radiator from it's mounting as it is heavy and awkward to handle by ones lonesome. Rob
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I'm still a few steps behind you there Glenn. Rob
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I'm not using Baldwin filters either. I was yakking with a guy about 1693TA Cat engines a couple months ago and he was telling me about a Baldwin filter comming apart internally on him 30 or so miles after an oil change. He said no sooner than he had got up to 65mph in traffic the engine started knocking, shut if off and coasted to the side of the road. He thought the drain plug was not tightened up by the truck stop he'd just left. Turns out the oil filter(s) came apart internally and plugged the pickup screen to the oil pump. The deal wound up costing almost $16,000.00 to get the engine rebuilt with a brand new $7400.00 crankshaft kit! Baldwin did not pay a nickel, nor accept any blame. I would not wish that on anybody; Even if they drove a Pete. Rob
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Hi again; If I may ask, what has been your tenure of employment with the Volvo/Mack relationship? Was Mack Trucks your employer prior to the acquisition by Volvo, or the merger with Renault? I do not understand how an Australian employee would not have at the forefront of ones' mind, or fingertips, the rich history and loyalty to the Mack trucks of yesteryear that lead the charge opening up the Australian outback for commerce and expansion. If you look on any of the commercial website related to "Road Trains", the Mack Trucks figure prominently for reliabilty of service. There is a reason for this, and the passion for the loyalty expressed. Rob
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Well, after all the years that have passed by; I have finally figgerout out the meaning of the word "Change". Rob
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P & S Contracts
Rob replied to dieseldog123g's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
I like seeing old photos of Mack trucks performing their intended duties. I noticed the truck B model with the rectangular tanks is a left drive truck, while the others appear to be rt. drive. Is Scotland like the U.K. in that the driver is on the right side of the cab? Just wondering why the trucks would be appointed differently? Rob -
Replacement Wheel Cyls
Rob replied to 609albert's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
You are going to need to know which axle, and brake setup your truck has installed. A competent counter person at either a Napa, or Carquest store could be good leads but as a last resort they can be sleeved to use standard and routinely available cups. It really is not that expensive the have performed. Look up whitepostrestorations.com for one vendor. They are probably the most expensive for a guide if you don't use them. Rob -
Greetings From Sheboygan, Wi:
Rob replied to Rob's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Hi Trent, won't need to be buying no lunch. This morning on the way to class I spotted a fresh squish of some small animal in the center lane of I-43 and just had to stop and "scrape it up". Had a bit of newsprint in the front floorboard and wrapped the carcass securely, then threw it into the trunk for some transportation to the generator school cafeteria cause I left my portable grill at home. Didn't have no condiments anyways. During lecture I splained to the teacher that I had a special treat for the class but needed a blender, microwave, and some used 15W-40 diesel engine oil; I was let out of class to "work my magic" for a lunch break treat. I went out to the trunk and retrieved the delicacy that had been provided to nourish our bodies, shaved and pulled off the remaining hair with particulate matter from the flesh, doused it in electrical cleaning solvent to eliminate the possibility of any kind of germs, then into the blender it went with just the correct amount of oil. Of course with the blender selection set to "chop", suspicion, and interest was raised, but I quickly selected "puree'" to speed up the process. (I cannot reveal my secret recipe). After a few seconds of this, I was able to locate a drain pan to nuke the sauce in the microwave oven. After the taste of perfection was acheived, I grabbed the ordinary, drab, and boring entres' of beef and cheese platters provided by the school, basted them with my special recipe using a parts washing brush from the aqueous parts washer for a beautiful luster, then back into the microwave for 10 minutes till a wonderful golden brown color was obtained. (I admit that a little more butter would have been a proper enhancement). A wonderful yet delicious, and nutritious meal was enjoyed by all. I've got some leftovers and plan to bring them along so we won't have to purchase anything except maybe something to drink. Besides that, with the haulage scheduled from Herb's place, if we run low, I'll make more! Rob -
Greetings From Sheboygan, Wi:
Rob replied to Rob's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
I don't get no Chitlins around the house no more. They give me gas. That in itself is not all that bad, but Momma would always get pissed off at me before the night would be over. Especially when I give her a late night "Dutch Oven". She really DOES NOT like that. Rob -
Yup, this is the place to be to learn all you need to know about Peterbilt. Welcome to the site. Rob
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I was surprised at that truck too. The frame is small, (9"), and about 1/4" thin. It was originally a tractor stretched out a couple of feet. A real stripper too as it doesn't even have a passenger seat. I've weighed everything at a customer's fertilizer plant scale. The truck has no front brakes, nor power steering, is on spokes, and the rear carriers are aluminum. The bed was a 13.5 ft. "Heil" that was scrapped due to the rust, and there was no tailgate. You could steer it with two fingers when moving. Rob
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Wiring Diagram For R688 1990
Rob replied to amberwood's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
"Surge", or "inrush current" was probably your culprit as the relay engaged, then dropped out in quick succession. Rob -
Oil Bath Vs. Dry Air?
Rob replied to randyp's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Hi Herb, I've seen several D8's moved that are complete and they too are heavy. The D9, and 10 series of tractor will not clear the overpasses on the interstates if the cabs/ROPS are installed. As I've always seen, the blades and frames are always shipped separate. On the D9 and D10, the air conditioner units are plumbed, and secured to the back of the cab for transport. The D11 series gets the main tractor minus the roller frame, tracks, ripper, and cab and ROPS on a permitted oversize load, the roller frame and small parts on another permitted load, a single track and more smaller hardward like ripper teeth on another load, a single track and cab/ROPS on another load, and the main blade on a last load. Depending on travel distance depends on where the blade frame is packaged. If the tractor is a "carrydozer", there is one more load involved. If I recall correctly, a standard D11R weighs in about 214,000 before the owner "options" are added on...... Few years ago a guy took off from Morton with a new D10 that had the cab and ROPS installed and caught it on an overpass traveling I-74. Imagine the force it would take to break the tractor loose from the trailer and pull it off and onto the pavement! Then imagine the driver not having the proper permits. Then imagine the damage to the bridge, and the fines to the company for the damage! The driver went to jail, (imagine that) and the bridge was rebuilt/repaired with the I74 overhaul project we had go on here for almost three years. Rob -
My 51 A-40H with a 12.5 ft. dump box, full double frame, gas engine, five and three trans, on heavy rears weighs right at 19,200. The 72 R685 with a 13.5 ft. dump bed, single frame, 237 diesel, five speed, on 34,000 rears weighs right at 16,200. Then my 77 R795, (winch truck) with V8 engine, six speed, double frame, 38.000 rears, small steel flat deck with headrack weighs almost 22,000. The weights definately can be "all over the board" depending on how the truck is set up. For another reference: My 58 B61 tractor that is diesel, single frame, aluminum triplex, 38,000 rears, weighs about 14,300 if I remember correctly. Both of my RL series tractors weigh less than 14,000 each, and they both have heavy engines in them. Momma reminded me of how wealthy I could be when scrap metal comodities were so high. Rob
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Oil Bath Vs. Dry Air?
Rob replied to randyp's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
Guess I should have said that there was no blade, or frame on that tractor, but forgot..... A D10 usually takes three trailers to deliver complete as a ripper is usually separate from the tractor as is the cab due to height, and the blade and frame is a separate shipment. A D11 needs five trailers and every trailer is very heavy. Rob -
Oil Bath Vs. Dry Air?
Rob replied to randyp's topic in Antique and Classic Mack Trucks General Discussion
I have a 58 B-61ST, perfect running 170 Thermodyne, triplex with 5.02 rears, and speaking of moving dozers: I have a friend that picks new dozers up from E. Peoria, IL and hauls them to his yard. He works for Daily Express and they move a lot of them as does Keen Trucking across the street. There was a new D-10 setting on his beam trailer with the cab off, but complete otherwise including a three tooth ripper on the back. I backed my B61 under and hitched up, waited for the air to build to move and did not have enough power to get 10 miles per hour in about 1000'. I was able to upshift two gears, (auxilary only) and had not run up against the governor before running out of room before needing to turn though. The lot is gravel and it took all that little truck could give just to get that much weight moving without sitting there killing it. Although it was slow for the limited time I was playing, it sure was fun. I had to back it to the spot I started from as he would not let me turn that sharp in the gravel; (didn't want to scrub off, or cut and tires). That dozer probably weighed about 90,000 the way it was outfitted. I called it "The little Mack that could". Rob -
My 1992 Mack Ch600 Puerto Rico
Rob replied to rickytruckingpr1's topic in Modern Mack Truck General Discussion
Not a bad looking truck that should serve you well for it's intended purpose. Rob
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