Rob

Damn, just thinking of that blistering speed makes my eyes water from the imaginary windblast. Rob

I'm afraid you have lost me in your path of progression. "Taking a beating" because you work for a company is not a real issue with most anything conveyed on this site. Hell, you work for an employer, (Volvo/Mack in this case) and if that employer doesn't provide the means to put food on your table, it would be your own fault. Nobody is beating on you, or plans to because of your employer. Believe me when I say there are a lot of "die hard" Mack fans on this site including myself. This "group" is what the site was set up for, and will continue to cater to. I myself have several Mack trucks that are all considered antiques, and their working lives are finished. Each of them have earned their retirement, and are special to me in their own way. I've been around this marque for many, many years but have never had a job driving any truck. I'm pushing 50 years old now and still remember having my diaper changed in the front seat of a B model Mack truck. Mack trucks are a part of my family history, and a large part of my adolescent years. When all the teenage boys had to have their Camaro's, Mustangs, and the like, I had a B model Mack, along with a nice car. To date, I have never had a desire to own anything that Volvo produces and seriously doubt I will. I mean no disrespect or offense by my comments as their products are probably just as good as most others' built at this time. I do not think they will have brand loyalty in years to come. Around these parts Volvo brand loyalty comes from a "low bid" to fleet purchasers. I have never seen an owner/operator purchase a Volvo class 8 truck myself, yet I've seen many Peterbilt, Kenworth, International, and the like routinely purchased although they are higher in initial cost. Maybe I should say something as you suggest to even the score. Look at Brockway Trucks, and what Mack Trucks, (then owned by the Signal Companies) did to them when they tried to compete in the same marketplace. They shut Brockway down which on many facets was an equal in performance and durability. This is business and will always be practiced. I don't think Volvo purchased Mack Trucks to eliminate them, but rather to penetrate a market they did not have a very good chance at otherwise. In the future Mack Trucks will probably be "spun off" to another investment group when profits continue to decline in the lineup. It is most unfortunate that there is so little pride in a product from the workforce no matter what it is any longer. Let me ask this of you. Are you proud enough of the product that Volvo/Mack is producing you plan to work for this company after you are eligible to retire, or because you know this company will "look after you" in your "golden years"? Or do you plan to exit just as soon as you can knowing it's "just a job" and you are a "cog in the wheel of the machine"? Usually the latter is soon replaced and life goes on....... You mentioned "culture". Many of the participants on this site have a strong cultural background and uncompromised loyalty to Mack Trucks. This is of course including myself. Although it is not the same company started by the original Mack brothers, and through many ownership changes over the years, one thing had remained steadfast and that was quality of the product. It has been said many times and many ways that a Mack Truck costs more to purchase up front, but they are still running/producing when others are scrapped. While I've not seen, or visited a single Mack production facility, I think it was a "Cultural Crime" to move the "Truck Capitol of the World" out of the Lehigh Valley. I've heard many, many times through the years: Built Like a Mack Truck, meaning quality, and durability/longevity from people not even involved with trucking. The phrase has been applied numerous times to items not related to trucks at all. I've heard nothing regarding Volvo at this time, but I can envision something like: The World According to Volvo, or, Volvo, Bettering Your World. There is a reason there is such brand loyalty to Mack Trucks; I don't think Volvo recognizes it. Rob

A long term employee of John Deere in Moline was terminated when she sat on the copy machine and faxed a copy of her hindquarters to everybody on the bulk list stored in that machine. Somebody did not see the humor in it I suppose. Rob

I've never been through a "tremendous financial scrain", but it sounds like fun. Exactly what is a "scrain"? Rob

A single frame will be about 16,500-17,500, a double frame close to 20,000 depending on construction of the box, and what rears are installed.

Hi Herb, I've never actually owned, (nor really worked on) anything with a "Jacobs" engine brake. The only one I've driven was a newer tractor and a VSS did control it, along with the speedometer, cruise control, hydraulic p/s boost pressure, and transmission shift points. I had assumed most vehicles with this engine brake did use some sort of speed, or throttle position sensor to shut the system down when the engine was idling. That is news to me that they would inherently shut the engine down with operator error. A mis adjusted "Dynatard" engine brake will kill the engine at idle also as has been the case with all three of mine! Learn something every day. Thanks, Rob Prolly see you on Thursday night after school lets out.

If he is, he will win as I've quit "collecting". It is time to get something finished! Too many "projects" torn into and not a lot of time available to finish. I also have one hell of a "honey do" list that I owe Momma for. I'm working that one down now cause it must be paid. Rob

Keep in mind there are many components to make the system work. There is the switch in the dash, the switch on the clutch pedal, the fuel pedal, sometimes a speed sensor in the system, and of course the switch in/on the injection pump or linkage. Most any of these can fail internally from use and cause a short to ground. By you mentioning that the fuse does not blow until you go to use the engine brake is the first "clue" the the system is giving. Does the fuse blow if you select the engine brake on while the truck is not moving? How about if the engine is not started, and the engine brake is selected? This can rule out about 1/2 of the system right off if the fuse does not blow. I would start the engine, run it at about 1800 rpm, select engine brake, get off the throttle and let the engine come back to idle, then "rev" the engine up and down a few times and then check the fuse again. The speed sensor portion of the system should be alright if the fuse holds doing this as the brake should not work unless the truck is going a few mph. Rob

My past experience says that you can but you will need to do away with the "syncrovance" unit that is on the front of the 711 engine pump. The turbo engines did not use it. You can either pull the unit off the shaft, or weld the flyweights in place. Be sure to time the engine and don't just slap the pump on and go. If there is nothing wrong with the rotary pump I probably wouldn't make the swap until failure. Although the APE pump is relatively more commonplace there is really nothing wrong with the psj pump. As you probably know you will need to change all the hi pressure lines also as they are different. I don't know about mounting the rear of one quad trans onto another. I'm no expert but there were minor differences in the years' productions of those transmissions and as Herb has mentioned in prior posts, they could whine from minor gear ration differences. I suppose you could just use the case and not have problems if they are the same? Rob

The Titan that Bruckners had in OKC was transferred to another of their dealerships when it didn't sell after a couple of months. Rob

Chances are that you have a shorted solenoid, or a pinched, cut/chaffed wire in the harness. If it were mine the first thing to do would be to unplug both cylinder heads from the harness and drive the truck. If it still blows the fuse, the solenoids and/or associated wiring to the heads can be eliminated for now. If the fuse holds, then plug only one cylinder head back in and drive the truck again. If the fuse still holds, unplug the one cylinder head, and plug the other one in. Drive the truck again and discern if the fuse still blows. If it still blows I would unplug, or unfasten the wiring harness from the switch in the dash that enables the system and see if the fuse holds. If the fuse now holds, get the multimeter out and "ring out" the wiring to find a direct short to ground by reading the meter, and following the wiring, (by hand most times) to find the problem. By doing these functions you are isolating where the problem lies. Rob

The hand primer pump that you mention is the actual pump that "lifts" fuel from the storage tank. When you operate the "hand primer" you are actually actuating the valve mechanically and bypassing the internal lobe on the camshaft the actuates these same valves. If you look at a schematic of the pump, it is clear how it works and the valves and seats internal to this pump do fail. When they do get weak the symptoms are as you describe. A rebuild kit for the type on an E6 engine is only about $40.00 and well worth the expenditure as part of a yearly service. Like differential, or transmission fluid in your car, it is seldom thought of for maintenance but I've rebuilt probably a dozen of those little pumps, (takes all of 15 minutes) and it has cured problems as you mention, along with low fuel delivery, (such as plugged fuel filters). On the older engines, these are the only check type valves in the low pressure side of the fuel system. Rob

Yup. Time for reman "chunks". Rob

You are much wiser than I. Rob

Rooster rules the house. Wife rules the rooster. No win situation. Truck and tractor show is out. Shucks. Rob

Mike submerging the complete body is what I've always done in diesel fuel. It is neutral enought that it will not attack automotive grade paint. After the "gunk" is thoroughly saturated, a pressure washer is used. Usually the stuff washes right out with little effort. I've not tried this with a cold water pressure washer though. My washer will make steam and that is what I've used. Rob

I've been evaluating the possibility of marketing my "Road Stew, Truckers Blend" as a diarrhea aid also. The thought came unto me during the evaluation process of product development. All of my test subjects were afflicted with sudden and severe constipation that took several days to pass. This was shortly after consuming less than 1/2 the amount sent with you. I trust you utilized the hi temperature nichrome wire to securely fasten the container to the manifold and then held the throttle WFO for at least 3 minutes before consuming the product? By using no artificial ingredients or preservatives in the stew, full flavor is realized with ultra high thru heating just prior to consumption. A taste you will truly never forget. Rob

Me neither. All I get to play with is a steel ball in a padded room, and my bare hands. Rob

Be sure to save me some of that Cummins "soot buildup" as I don't have any of that round here. I've got plenty of Mack at the present time. The product gives that lingering "tingle" to the recipes. Gonna be stoppin to visit with Herb in the next week and picking up the 1/2 barrel, (or so) "road scrapings" he's been collecting for me around the Appleton, WI area. Still fine tuning the menu at the cafe and around here you'll get a meal like nowhere else. This is real "Midwestern Cuisine". Rob

Hi Rod, yes that is true of what you must adjust. You need to obtain .005, (five thousandths) of an inch clearance between the top of the axle beam, and the bottom of the spindle top pivot point. This is shown on your diagram as "C", and labled the top knuckle bushing. The spindle pivots on the king pin there. If your clearance cannot be adjusted closer than about .015, (fifteen thousandths) between these two points, replace the king pins and bushings. Rob

Not gonna reveal the secret ingredients/parts to my road stew. Just remember I do not support the USDA grading system as there are too many politics involved. Rob

I was roundin up a straw. By the time I found one long enough to get the tequila that is next to the worm that has settled to the bottom of the drum, the party was over. Shit, I say!! Rob

And a pile of lumber to roll one axle/tire up onto to lift the other. No jack needed that way. I used to move three to four brand new ones a week in the early 80's and went through at least one tire per week most times. They are terrible at durability. I carried two spares with me in a rack every trip, and an electric impact that I'd run off my welder. Rob

No. Mobile home tires are branded for that usage only and limited to 45mph. I used to move mobile homes and the tires are 1/2 the weight, and the rims are less than that of true lowboy usage tires and rims. You don't want to use those pieces of shit for any other purpose than their design criteria neither. I moved one home and tore the center out of the rim at the welds. I broke the tire down, and rewelded it alongside the highway with my portable welder that I carried on the truck/tractor. Remouted the tire and off I went. Rob

I'd lay odds that you will need to set a large concrete block on the truck frame above the drive tires to pull that much weight up an incline for traction. It is amazing how little "tractive effort" is transferred to the ground with a tandem that does not have much downward weight; Especially when you take into account algae, or slime that grows on the water approaches. Rob