Rob

It very well could have been. The econodyne engines were the same basically as the Maxidyne series with different pump/governor calibrations. All of the Maxidyne engines that I've seen were backed by either a five, or six speed transmission to take advantage of the torque rise of that series. Rob

That is a real good analogy Glenn. I had an ENDT676, (283hp) in a B model with a triplex and the power really fell off above 1600 rpm. It actually felt as if the engine was starving for fuel but was not. For the power band of the engine, you ran out of gear much too fast. Rob

If the truck is driven responsibly and the driver is not "hot of the throttle", it will last just fine. The torque rise of that engine is rated much higher than the design criteria of the transmission but it has been dozens of time in the past. The key to make it live is to gradually apply power when loaded. The only real drawback that I experienced with mine was that the engine was hardly ever in it's torque band for maximum efficiency the engine was designed for. This is not detrimental to operation at all. Rob

YUP. Especially that Other Dog character. Rob

You're prolly right. Besides that; If I can't make something fit with a hammer, it prolly don't belong there no way. Rob

The red truck is a bit strange. Looks sort of like a White cab and doors, but the sleeper is different. The transmission you mention was readily available in the states. In a gas engine truck it was called a "Monoshift", and a diesel engine truck it was called "Unishift". This is at least what I've seen. It served the same purpose as two shifters but only used the shifting handle to change gears in the main transmission. The auxilary section was shifted by an air cylinder that was controlled by the "flipper" valve, and clutch pedal linkage. As things got a little wear on them they became increasingly difficult to keep in proper adjustment but all in all, a great setup. Rob

I have. In fact it sat in my driveway for a couple of hours during a sewer construction project through my yard a dozen years ago. This one was very meticulously done, and definately personalized with lettering on the doors and hood that was real "gold leaf". It was attached to a then new Talbert tri-axle lowboy that hauled a new Cat 325 excavator. No, he wouldn't let me drive it; He had no history on the truck, just liked it, and had it rebuilt. Rob

Guys, he has a 56 B42. You are thinking of another new participant; heartattack01, with the B83. Rob

It is becomming increasingly apparent an attack of lunacy has befallen you. I suggest you lighten your heavy burden and send me some battery box covers for an A model Mack as I'm sure you will feel much better afterward. Rob

A good place to start is by indentifying which steer axle you have under the truck. On the passenger side near the leaf spring it will be stamped. A common axle is FA-505 in the B61 series of trucks. Yours being a B42 could be different but we'll run with this one for now. Once this is determined, you can get on the scrounge to locate parts. Out west Budd style hubs were commonplace. East of the Mississippi, Dayton style, (spokes) were much more prevelant. Before you place an order online or by other means that you cannot physically inpect the parts, ensure the bearing numbers are the same from your present hubs, to the donor hubs. This will ensure the hubs will interchange. Expect to pay a fairly large sum for this as they are getting difficult to come up with. Rob

The starter motor will have a tag, and one of the tabs on the voltage regulator will be stamped with the voltage also. Look on you cab firewall for a magnetic switch that looks like an old Ford starter solenoid. Most of those are stamped also. I still think the truck is probably 6V positive ground, (if original) and has an EN402 engine if a flathead. Rob

Momma ain't quite as wide as me. She is also 2.5 inches taller, and 25 pounds, (or so) lighter. I finally gave her the advice about using corn starch on the skin folds between her chins, and the rash has somewhat subsided. Besides; The red marks come from shared affection. Rob

I've got an R model with the engine out if that would help anything. The other R models are V8 powered with the exception of the Cat powered truck also. Rob

There will be a tag on the generator, (if not removed) that will tell you the system voltage and if there is a large switch under the passenger seat beneath a latch retained cover, it will tell us more. You could also pull a headlamp, or tailight out to see it's operating voltage for a start. From experience, your truck is probably a six volt positive ground system, but I'm not that familiar with the gas powered B models; nor these Mack things in general. Rob

OK Greg, you got your photo op. Now send me back my battery box covers. Momma is all over my ass to cause her batteries are exposed. I don't know how you folks drive such little trucks. Ever time me an Momma go for a ride we have red marks on our hips from them rubbing together. Rob

I've got plenty of room for most any Mack to come home to. Rob

The radiator and mountings are different. If you change those it will fit with little fabrication. Rob

Generally yes. It depends on the size and wear of the cylinder bore. Normally, a cylinder bore wears with a taper as the piston and rings are pulled and pushed with the cylinder growing larger at the bottom of the stroke than the top. On an inline engine the piston pin is centered through the side skirt of the piston. On a "V" type engine of 90 degrees, the piston pin is off centered about .060 towards the lower side of the piston and that is why there is a definate "forward" mark in the piston crown, or head. This is to offset, or slow the wear from the sliding of the piston and ring combination. Cylinder sleeves are usually not thick enough to take an overbore and are replaced to fit to original size. The lower piston skirts wear from slapping the cylinder bore and the ring grooves wear from the constant "hammering" the rings give them from containing the force of compression, and heat. Knurling of valve guides is not a real good idea in my opinion. The knurl just displaces metal by threading a mandrel through a worn guide and rolls threads into it. You then run a reamer through the knurled guide to bring it to correct internal diameter. When said and done, you have about 1/3 the amount of material remaining to facilitate a seal to the valve shaft and it is not smooth like the original guide. They tend to not last long either wearing both the valve stem, and remaining guide on short order. I've see guys knurl the skirts on pistons too. It doesn't last either. Rob

Don't want to steal any thunder but blowby is anything that gets by seal of the piston rings to the cylinder walls and into the crankcase. You see this as oil vapor comming from a draft tube on the engine because the engine block below the area of compression has slight pressure above atmospheric. Another byproduct of this is lubrication oil being forced past seals/gaskets. Most times an engine also passes, or is "burning oil". Rob

Typically when the heat is enough to burn the tires from the rims, the frame is scrap. Rob

Aww man, another long hood V8 powered R model and I got no money, nor physical anatomy left to give so I could have it. Damn, life sucks sometimes. Looks to be a real nice truck. Rob

Thanks Chris, I looked for a link like that to no avail. I'll check it out! Rob

I've never seen any Mack engine except a "Maxidyne" that was painted gold originally. That was their distinguishing factor. Rob

All of mine seem to be "natural". The tri-plex's are all aluminum, the quadraplex is cast iron without paint, and the Fuller's seem to be red primer. Rob

Muratic acid does not like aluminum much at all. I'm thinking in the disolving process flourene gas is produced but I may be mistaken but it does destroy aluminum. Rob