Rob

First off: Are you certain you are pulling fuel from the tank through the fuel filter(s) flooding the gallery of the injection pump, then have fuel flowing back to the storage tank? When you pump the hand primer does if feel like there is nothing behind it or does the effort to push the plunger down increase substantially? If neither of these conditions are met you will not have fuel to the injection nozzles. If you do have resistance when hand priming chances are your control rack is stuck in the injection pump. Remove the front cap from the pump housing just above where the pump bolts to the engine and the cap will either be hexagonal shaped, (screws off), or has a couple of screws fastening it onto the housing. Behind this cap is a shaft with a bolt threaded into the end. You should be able to pull, and push that rod, (control rack) very easily in, and out of the pump. If it is stuck of does not move easily then you problem is found. Work that control rack back and forth several times to see if it will loosen up. If not I like to remove the pump from the engine, take off the side cover and get everything loose internal to the pump with oil and a litter coercement, (hammer/screwdriver). These things are tempermental when the sit but can usually be freed up if stuck. Rob

corrected version:

Hope everybody had a safe enjoyable holiday as did I. We really didn't even watch any fireworks or set any off. Just sat around the campfire without fanfare until it started to rain. We then moved to the porch. Rob

Great!! We'll have to summons up Tom, (with his giant mater), James, and Mike for us a good ole fashioned BBQ. I'll stop by my favorite "side road through the sticks" and gather up some fresh cuisine, Mike will bring the Tabasco sauce and 'shine, James can bring the dinner rolls and fresh peaches, and Tom can bring good fixins from the garden he has so dillegently tended to. Fred, you can bring the side condiments and I'll play Chef Rob. We'll use the scrap tires for fuel cause then we don't need no charcoal. Damn, we be eatin good at the Cafe!! Rob

Now ya dun went an spoilt me droolins wif da truf. Shucks, Rob

Don't need no bread with a mater like dat. Just needs two slabs or meat for it to fits between! Rob

I sure would. I still remember what it is like to operate a manual spade, (shovel). Really don't want to do that no more neither. Rob

Anybody 1/2 way close have any 20", 5 hand hole, steel Budd wheels laying around they don't need? I've got three aluminum on my RL that are corroded almost through and the tires are good on them. Thanks, Rob

I think you are right but I forgot to look and snap the photos I promised. Will be there in a couple hours and will set it straight. Rob

I like that word and how it is used; AGAIN!

Put a bulldog on the nose and it will stay out of the repair shop.

If you have verified that the pedal and linkages are loose and without play in bushings I would change the clutch cable also. FJH is very correct as I've seen that myself that they tighten, (or restrict movement) with a load on them. A 2000 model year truck has had a lot of clutch action over the years. Rob

I always seem to have neighbors like that in the beginning. They always come to reason and leave me alone. Must be my charming personality, or they like to sleep when I don't. I have discovered there is nothing illegal about testing air horns at 3:00a.m. sharp nightly in the driveway. In years past I have purchased, and restored, Allis-Chalmers, IH Cub Cadet, Simplicity mowers, and have done several Wheel Horses also. There is enough cast iron in the old tractors to give them the tractive effort available to the ground that these newer units do not have. A finely restored older unit is a much better tractor than what you get nowadays unless you pay a rediculous price. If you want to get even more pushing ability for your Wheel Horse, fill the rear tires about 90% full with water/anti-freeze mix the same as you would do with an automobile, then bring the pressure up to operating with air. Judging from your tire size that would add about 50 pounds of unsprung weight to the tires and that is a world of difference. Keep in mind that this will not be conducive to a manicured lawn as it will tend to rut in soft turf. With the added weight, you will push a full blade of dirt. I would find yourself a motorcycle muffler to install as they are already chrome plated and low restriction. If you like it loud, I'd run it that way and devise a plan to ensure the neighbors keep their noses in their business and stay out of mine. Rob

Fuc&ed Over Recycled Dodge

END 864 series engines were offered in B model chassis in the later production years. They were rated at about 250 horse if memory serves. The series was B-615. Someone else with more processing power will join in with more information for you. Rob

Tonight I decided to get with the program on my 73 RL and clean the cooling system before yanking the radiator to send in for evaluation. The upper and lower bolt on tanks both leak at the gaskets so I'm gonna let the radiator shop take care of it. If it needs recored I'll have that done at the same time. I rebuilt the water pump a few months ago and there was a pile of rust in the housing that I cleaned out at that time. The cooling system has obviously been uncared for. I drained and refilled this thing six times tonight with clean water, let the engine get warm enough to open the thermostats then drained it again. Each time the discharge water is filthy red with rust. As the discharge from the petcock slows due to water level falling, the petcock clogs with solid particulate matter and requires a small screwdriver to get it flowing again. This has happened four of the six times. The last couple of times the water is getting a little clearer. I'm sure the core is partially clogged on the insides due to this buildup. I'll continue to flush it a couple more times before pulling the radiator to get as much out as possible. I think I'm going to build an air powered water cannon like some of the radiator shops use to have to backflush the block when the radiator is out. Don't want to plug a freshly rodded or recored radiator; That just may ruin my whole day. Rob

Paul, it's like we're family around here; You can say Back End without the hyphen in the middle...... LOL!! Couldn't help myself, Sorry!! Rob

Batteries are rated at both cranking amps, and reserve capacity. The particular batteries are 450 min reserve if I remember correctly. This means with a full charge in the cells, (1.25 specific gravity level) and a steady 1 ampere draw on the battery at 70 degrees ambient temperature, the battery will be officially "dead" in 450 minutes, (1.10 specific gravity level). These figures are from my generator maintenance manuals and do have some leeway as far as tolerance as they are derived through laboratory measurement. Citing that the batteries are in parallel with each other the adds to the cranking amperage available, and the reserve capacity of the battery bank. Now with a steady electrical draw of 600 ma against this battery bank you would have approximately 2/3rds of an amp steadily depleting the charge. If you have 900 minutes of total reserve capacity available, you would with one ampere load be dead in 900 minutes. With 2/3 ampere draw, you could add another 1/3 of the time to the total meaning 300 minutes, or 1200 minutes until the batteries were officially dead. As you know there is 1440 minutes in a day, 24X60=1440. Theoretically, a battery bank with a one ampere load impressed upon it with the above mention criteria would be "dead" and require recharge in less than 24 hours. I think it could be ascertained why batteries deplete with a small load upon them. As the available battery voltage drops in the storage cells, the current declines also as voltage/resistance equals current expressed as: E/R=I. The resistance in this circuit would remain constant with the voltage impressed upon it lessening as the battery bank discharges. Rob

I can't say that I've really ever looked at a balancer on any of my engines to ascertain if they are marked in degrees or anything. It is such an important operation and part of a good tune up that the familiarity is almost like my name to me. I had to think to explain it. I did notice "Dynatard" solenoids on the pictured engine. I oversighted and the engine does have a "Dynatard" engine brake, now would be an opportune time to install a new set of rings and seals. Valve adjustment is very critical on those engines for the engine brake to work satisfactorily. In fact, I check my work twice when working with them. Yes, base circle or valve overlap, (times when all valves are closed) in the cylinder you want to adjust is very critical. Most four stroke engine have a relatively slow valve opening and closing due to the ramp of the camshaft design. This is to promote a wide torque band of operation and smooth idle. This also increases the physical size of the ramp and lessens valve overlap "window" in which you need to work within. I've made the mistake of adjusting in the incorrect area and had to completely tear my work back down to re-repair something that never should have happened. Persons that have been around/built high performance engines know the difference in camshaft profiles just at a casual glance. I used to regrind and custom grind camshafts on a special grinder many moons ago....... Most times with the exception of bashing my head, I learn from past mistakes to not make them again. Rob

Mine is a V10 with automatic transmission. That truck on the trailer weighs just shy of 22,000# with 50 gallon of fuel in it. The trailer weighs 8300# empty. So far I've got right at 200,000 miles on the old girl that I bought new in March, 1996. I've only ever replaced a fuel pump, and rebuilt the front end. Been a good truck. I did put a Detroit Locker in the rear after burning the factory sure grip up four times! Rob

Mopar has hit on a very important point. While you are evaluating both your clutch pedal linkage and cable assemblys ensure the cross shaft bushings that the clutch pedal rides upon have integrity. Some of those are bronze oilite, and some are plastic or nylon. These wear substantially and are relatively easy to replace should they be worn. Before shooting the fittings with grease, shake the pedal from side to side, and in a circular pattern to check these bushings. When the cable is out is the time to service them. If the bushings are let go then the shaft wears on the housing and causes an expensive repair to make work right again. Rob

If I remember correctly it is a little more distant to the trunion support as opposed to the cab support but not more than 24 inches further. I'll get you a couple photos tonight. Rob

Hi Grant, no I did not include the trunion stand, only the crossmember that is at the rear of cab, (supports rear cab mount) the one about three feet back, (carrier bearing hangs on this one), and the one to the rear of the framerails behind 5th wheel. Rob

Hi Grant, my R795 has a 215 inch wheelbase measured center of the tandem. I will count the crossmembers tonight but I think there are three total from the cab to rear of truck. Looking forward to meeting you. Rob

Sent the file. Rob