Rob

I liked the kitchen sink idea for a doghouse on the car hauler project. Pretty much ready made for that application. Going with a Cummins in a 600 series truck is going to be tight inside the cab and I think the shift levers would need to be relocated to the rear more. Can't see how that would be comfortable to shift. I'd prolly opt for a 673 as you most likely don't need to go noplace fast anyway in a dump truck. Especially if used for site duty, or short runs primarily. Rob

That's news to me also. I've done several using ATF and never had an issue. I'll remember that. Rob

Naw, there is a couple of inches available back there but it is tight all the same. Rob

No I didn't Herb. You had a red one ton in the garage, and the RB dumper in the shop was all that I'd seen. You were consistent with the green, red, and white paint schemes. Looks good. When I put the dog on my hood I spent quite a bit of time fitting the base to the compound curvature of the hood panel. Lots of time spent filing, then polishing to the correct contour. I then sent the base into the plating shop and had it chromed. Rob

I've been told that a spring ride trailer empty pulled by an air ride tractor has a lot of "jitter" to it. I've not driven or pulled that combination myself but it would seem that with the articulation that air suspension offers the logic would stand to reason. The tractor itself would be smooth, but when the trailer suspension hits a bump the inherent oscilations set up though both units would transfer forward through the tractor, and hence the driver. An air ride cab and seat would serve to lessen the jarring felt by the driver but it would not be undetectable. Rob

Yes I've seen that before myself. I have already had this alternator rebuilt, (Leece-Neville) because I had not history on it and it was very slow to pull in the regulator. Went ahead and put new diodes and fused links in it at the same time cause they're not much money. This truck had a consistent draw with the alternator disconnected also. Rob

Looks flimsy to me. Hope that doesn't sound too harsh. Here is a bumper: This way you can smile as you go under. Rob

My rendition of the willing pulling the real; Notice the hoods of both trucks: Put a Bulldog on it; It will last forever. Rob

Seems like I test the structural integrity of a Mack cab roof panel every time I bobtail one of my trucks. Maybe that is what my problem is? Rob

Yes I can do that but it will be in the morning as my manuals are at work. This will give me something to do. I don't want to post it here because it is a memory hog and there is only so much space available to each member. If anyone else needs anything I've got access to they're welcome too. Rob

Momma always says that I'm "way out there". Rob

Hi there, I have never had the pump off of my E6-350 but I'm thinking that it does have a flat, or missing tooth on the drive gear to slide on one way only. I would not turn the engine over with the pump removed just in case. To set the valves get yourself a service manual as it will explain the proceedure perfectly. You must have a way to "bar" the engine over by hand with either a breaker bar, or some way to turn the engine by hand to bring the cyliners that you are going to adjust the valves on to TDC. You then loosen the locknut of the rocker arm at the side opposite the valve stem bridge and adjust the clearance between the arm, and the valve stem bridge while pushing down on the back of the rocker arm to open the gap. Using a screwdriver to hold the adjusting screw in position, tighten the locknut and recheck your clearance to ensure you are still correct. Follow the firing order of the engine, (1,5,3,6,2,4) and adjust the valves in this order. Just bar the engine over till both rocker arms for the cylinder you want to adjust are loose with clearance. This is the area you need to watch closely. For instance turn the engine a little further than when you first notice one valve just stopping to move. If you don't go a little further than this point it is possible for you to be on the "ramp" of the cam lobe and not in the position the adjustment needs to made in. I'm only talking moving the crankshaft another inch or so from the point when one of the rocker arms stops moving. If you adjust your clearance while on the "ramp" of the cam, the operating clearance will be way off when the engine is running. If you don't have access to a service manual I can scan the proceedure for you in a .pdf file. PM me your email address if you need it. Rob

Went over to my electrical rebuilder last evening and purchased a couple of contact points for inside the solenoid, and flipped the copper ring around. Reinstalled everything and now my current draw is a whole 40ma. I'm sure this is driving the meter movement in the dash. The contact points were quite charred where the copper contact ring slams home upon turning the ignition switch to the start position. This current draw is less that 10% of what it was before fixing it. Thanks, Rob

With all the injectors physically out of the engine? Rob

Mopar has given you some good information. I feel a little back pressure in the exhaust is inherent as there is restriction to flow in any pipe no matter how large or small. Lessening this restriction is what performance tuners want. Personally I don't like loud pipes but I am older than you and probably out of touch. As suggested install an aftermarket low restriction muffler and it will be much easier to live with. I would agree that it is debatable as to damage that could incurr due to back pressure. I would think it would be more paramount to survival to have a free flowing exhaust in an air cooled engine verses a liquid cooled one. Cylinder head temperature is critical on those whether it is valve in head, or valve in block. "Stellite", or sodium filled valves were introduced to combat the heat that is generated in the valves due to exhaust temperatures. A free flowing exhaust system tends to reduce exhaust temperature at the head where a restrictive exhaust does the opposite. I like those old Wheel Horses. Haven't seen one in a while. Rob

First off I would do a major tune up on the engine including fuel, air, and coolant filters, run the overhead, and a compression test both wet and dry. Some of this you have already performed. If the compression check does not yield results within about 15% of each other cylinder, it is time to pull the heads for gaskets and checkout of the heads/pistons/rings etc. I would send the pump and nozzels into the fuel shop for checkout and calibration also at this time. This can be a lot of work so a routine tune up is the first order of business. A high rpm miss can be related to weak pump delivery, faulty injectors, sticking valves at high speed, broken, or weakend valve springs etc.... I lean on injector, or valve problems myself if the engine idles fine. Rob

Yes but please limit yours posts to something of substance!! Rob

I completely forgot about this. Must be getting old...... Rob

Yeah, well Scotty is readying the transporter room as we speak for me. If I knew the owners phone number I would just fax my ass over there, (even though it may take a few scans to fit). Rob

Keep your tanks drained and they will outlast you without a dryer. It is the hot compressed air cooling down after it leaves the discharge of the compressor that condenses in the tank(s). If you drain the accumulated moisture routinely tanks last a very long time. Certainly not saying it is not a good idea but for a hobby truck operated normally in nice weather, there is not a lot to gain except maintenance every year or so. Rob

I've just about went broke buying "Bazooka Bubble Gum" to keep mine together!! Rob

That is an old photo. I now sublet the manufacturing of the final product to an outside firm. All I do is put my name on it. When that photo was taken the union wages that I needed to pay for the transformation from something useless, (Peterbilt), into something useful, (smart car) was deemed too costly and was killing my enterprise. I therefore followed the exemplary lead of our elected politicians, and economic leaders, by sending the manufacturing base to a Chinese firm. Profits are now in ascention and I'm living like a "Fat Kat" while the common "little folk" starve themselves into submission. Savvy business practice don't you think? Why I'm living the "American Dream". Rob

She goes down to the Goodwill store and buy used underwear, cuts the back panel out of them, and sews em together for me. Custom made don't cha know! Some even have monograms!! Rob

They can be a little expensive to get rid of correctly. I wouldn't even think of dumping a bit of diesel fuel on them as they rested on cardboard while I tested my bic lighter out...... Rob

Are you certain that truck was built with a TR72 series transmission? I seem to remember that maybe this truck was built from a glider kit but that could be another thread. The single countershaft transmissions had been discontinued as of that timeframe on a production basis but anything is possible. Obtaining a new pto for the old style transmission is nothing short of someone having the parts leftover in dead stock. The spacer plate and gear has been/was discontinued by Chelsea in 1981 as an active part, and therfore will be the difficult to obtain. The PTO itself is common to many Mack transmissions, and some Clark/Hurth. If if were up to me, I would look to change the transmission to a more modern one as parts for the TR series are scarce and when you can find them, very expensive. Good luck with your project. Rob