Rob

I spoke with a gent at Rowe and the prices have not increased dramatically. I was really wanting to move on this project but I'm not so sure the truck is correct as mentioned earlier. I could slide a Fuller RTO12513 in the truck and that would probably be a better choice than the current Mack transmission due to the reduction in low gear. I've not checked so don't know what it actually would be. Momma was brought into the loop Saturday coinciding with the new concrete driveway that was finished yesterday at her house. She has temporarily suspended "riding my ass" about getting rid of some trucks due to this, (my assumption). Hope to re engage this project next week though. Rob

Verify the ignition parts are in good condition first, (plugs, wires, etc.), then run a compression check. I'll bet you have a valve stuck if the plugs/wires are good. Hard parts are a bit difficult to come by in my opinion, and I have three of those engines. Rob

Damn, I would need about a 5.40 ratio to attain satisfactory startability and of course reliability off road. I know an auxillary would handle the torque but a 12XX series is very expensive to acquire and setup. Maybe I should re evaluate the two stick idea? This truck does not have the large driveline that my other V8 Maxidyne powered truck does either. Really sounds like I should abandon this truck as a dump truck candidate due to cost to set it up correctly. My first thought was another rollback but I really need a trailer as opposed to a carrier. I wonder if it is satisfactory for a lowboy type tractor? I've got several winches, and pumps to provide power. Don't have a spare 5th wheel but they are readily available. Rob

I would be way under that so wondering if I should find a different purpose for the truck or not?. How much weight will a 15ft. dump body carry assuming dirt? I know there are a lot of variables but I have no experience here. I also thought about making this truck a camper with a winch on and off unit to go to shows, basically an RV. Rob

I hear that. This damn thing as a cab & chassis won't back over a two inch difference in elevation without the power divider locked in. The concrete apron to the shop is about 1.5 inches higher than the gravel driveway and if I don't lock it in beforehand, or have a running start, I'm gonna have to lock it in to enter the building. I've purchased a set of 3.70 ratio rears with a Detroit Locker in the rear rear so that should help. The transmission has a 11 to one 1st gear reduction in underdrive, and 8.6 to one in direct. I realize this could be a little better/deeper but I'm not really going to work the truck for hire so hopefully this will work satisfactorily. I know of a 12 speed that I could trade for, but it is the two lever style and I'd prefer to have a single shift lever as I have now. I wanted the 3.70 ratio to up the speed to a comfortable 72-75 MPH on open road as the transmission is direct in high on 20" rubber that will be changed to 22.5" tubeless radials. Rob

I'm gonna call them in the morning. I've got a good hoist and tank/frame left over from a 13.5ft. Heil bed that I junked a few years ago that was in good shape. The truck already has the pump on the transmission and a 50 gallon hydraulic saddle tank that could be reused possibly. Don't really matter. I would need to build a glove or sleeve of some type to bolt to the aluminum frame as I really don't want to cut into it if possible. This truck already has a large pintle hook on the back with air so it should be pretty easy to set up. How does Reyco spring do off road? Never been around it much myself. Thanks, Rob

Hi Greg, the hinge at the rear of the A-40 is right at the end and is welded to the frame. The mud flaps are just a couple inches rearward of the tires and are fastend very near the end of the rear of the bed. I've gravely concerned that if I were to jump out of the seat while the bed is in the air that I may upset the counterbalance action provided by my lard ass. Don't need a truck rotating on it's axis and assuming the "tits up" position unwillingly; Therefore, I don't plan to leave it when operating. I'm having a custom dual air spring seat fabricated to ensure survivability under duress conditions such as supporting my exponential weight gain which is still on an upward spiral. Although Momma has been chewing on my ass to lose some weight, and get rid of some unused trucks, I'm progressing for a happy medium. The A-40 is hers so it is safe. The Cat powered RL is safe because of it's status. One of the B-61's, (single axle) is alright cause my daughter has laid claim to it, (SHIT, I say), The R795 has attained a slight safety margin cause I need a winch truck. The 58 B-61 is in uncharted territory and may need to be hidden to save. The R-190 IH is safe cause it is my crane and I've had it so long. That is why I MUST get a useful purpose established for this RL. I'm looking at switching to a new job requiring relocation and if something isn't needed, It will have to go. I don't want input from Momma on this one at all cause I know her, and what she'll want. Rob

Hi Herb, there is about 14'6" to the rearmost part of the rearmost tires measured vertically. There is only about six inches of frame "stickout" beyond the rear tires. From this I would need to remove another eight inches to clear the vertical exhaust that I want to keep. I also want to keep the sides low enough to load with my skid steer loader. I've got 36" sides on the A-40 and that is about the limit. Thanks, Rob

I've got 15' of clear, flat platform behind the cab on my RL797. How long of dump body would go on this for general usage? I've got to stop using Momma's A-40 so need to get another dump truck going for casual usage. Thanks, Rob

Michael, I've never seen an "R" model cab back panel the had an insert for a walkthru type sleeper. I've replaced a couple that had this setup but replaced the entire cab back panel with a new OEM panel. Both that had the sleepers removed also needed roof repair so the roof skins were replaced at the same time. The newer style cabs are built with the removeable panel to let a guy go from a day cab to sleeper, or vice versa by just bolting, or riveting a panel into place and installing a rear glass. Rob

Like Momma says: At least when your talking or typing, You ain't crammin something in your mouth. Her latest trick is to only let me have diet Orange Sherbet. I don't get no more Edy's Butter Pecan ice cream. No sugar and very little calories. Also TASTES LIKE SHIT!!! Swear I'm gonna die with another spoonful. I'll finish this garbage then get me something good and strong to wash the taste away. As I write this Momma is on the couch "snickering" at me. I don't dare say nothin back cause I know the consequences...... Rob

I guess good..... Just don't get to pickin on me as I'm sensitive and my feelings get hurt easily. Rob

Most Mack trucks that I have been around use a 1" diameter, 36 spline count shaft without taper. I do not have the correct puller and have always placed a flat steel disc in the center of the steering wheel with the retainer nut backed off till the end of threads. With upward knee pressure on the rim from the backside, a quick burp with the air hammer and the wheel is free of the splines no matter how tight it was initially. The rapid vibration combined with the force of impact does the trick. Works for me. I don't know anything about "guruship". Rob

Be sure to leave the retention nut a couple turns above the threaded shaft so you don't deform threads, or eat steering wheel. The nutritional value derived through nitrocellulous plastic is of very little use and it is proven to be hard on the teeth. Rob

Hmmmm, sounds like somebody I know that possesses a large butcher knife, and a constant eye on me. Rob

The "correct" type puller looks like a large "C" clamp with a wide base saddle that is a fork. The saddle bears against the bottom of the steering wheel while the forcing screw pushes it's saddle that bears on the threaded shaft. Very easy to do but the single hammer and upward force works quick for me also. Rob

We went there too. Had a great time. Surprised my wife, and mother in law wanted to go with all the girls nearly naked!! Rob

Brad, the 73 and up model years are pretty much the same with the exception on minor holes in the firewall. Of course the DM, and U series cabs are different due to being offset 11 inches to the left, (driver's side) and the underside bracing and floorpan/firwall are different to facilitate this. I've switched several through the years and it is not a big job to install a 1973 cab onto a 1994 chassis, (or anything in between) using all the original parts from the 1994 cab. Minor welding and fabrication is all that is needed. Rob

I always liked to stab the meat full of holes with a fork and let it soak for a couple of hours in beer while in the fridge. Gives it a little "extra" and removes the taste of tire tread. "Open Pit" is popular here on the grocery store shelves. Really good poured over wheat toast for breakfast. Rob

So did my son. I really liked the show too. Funny, yet clean. Quite different than I was used to. Rob

Sounds to me like a different distributor housing has been used in the past possibly when the original wore out in the bore. The tag should have been changed at that time. If it drives the engine oil pump, it cannot rotate backwards or the engine will not oil itself. A distributor does not care which direction it rotates. The only differences are the advance units that are built in whether it be mechanical, or vacuum. The breaker plate needs to move as per the advance curve that is designed into it. However, even if it were rotating reverse rotation, the rerouting of the firing order wiring would make this null at an idle and through normal operating speed range. A compression check, (wet, and dry) are the first order of business when diagnosing low vacuum signals, or misfiring cylinders. A multitude of deficiencies can cause the problems you bring up and that is where I start. Rob

Hi Larry, It was really great to spend the time with you guys. Really regret there was not more time. In the planning stages for the next trip that will be a little longer in duration. The trusty, yet crusty Dodge had the largest standard cab when purchased and with the tilt wheel all the way up, and custom blocks bolted to the pedals, it fits me well. Thanks for ALL the help to both you guys!! Rob

I got back about 1:00pm after stopping at an airport in Bloomington, IL to do some "catch up" maintenance. I did nap for a little over an hour along the way cause with the rain, (heavy) the traffic lines were looking like dots..... A large cup of "dark roast" coffee snapped me back to life. Hit the couch for a couple of hours when I made it home and starting to "catch up". Glad to see you guys too. Next trip will be a little longer in duration!! I remember the story of the large individual as it is so "close to home". I'm trying but just can't seem to break and remain under the magic "300 pound" number. Look forward to meeting again! Rob

I'm no expert on the quadraplex by far but I think the input shaft is longer with a dual disk clutch setup. Hopefully Glenn, or FJH will chime in with some help for you. Rob

I'll have to get a look at it sometime, (if he'll let me). Rob