Rob

Call me on your next trip to Roxanna. Rob

That is referred to as "oil canning" of the panel. It is easily repaired by heat shrinking the steel substrate, then stretching it back to the proper contour, (hammer and dolly work). That type of dent is common with dump trucks, and mixers that had the tanks mounted high such as yours. With the panel completely paint stripped as yours was, the time to repair that damage would have been neglible. The bracing underneath? The B model hoods were a sturdy design with the crown built/rolled into the panel to make it self supporting and they did their job quite effectively. I don't understand the need for added bracing for support. As long as you are happy, all is great. This of course is just my unsolicited opinion...... Rob

In all probabilities you have an SAE #1 flywheel housing on your existing engine, (Thermodyne). An L-10 engine will physically bolt up as long as it has the appropriate SAE #1 clutch housing, the problem is the clutch. If your truck has a single plate clutch, (push type) the input shaft will most likely be incorrect as the L-10 engines that I've seen use a dual plate "pull style" clutch setup. It can be made to work but you may need a different input shaft for the transmission and they can be expensive and difficult to locate. Rob

I noticed some of the dents as you mention. Hard to believe they were painted over. Rob

I'm actually making attempt to get over the loss of sale on a mixer I'd planned. After all the marketing, coordination from participating parties, processing of associated paperwork, and reception with deposits of funds to make this deal come together; You go and stick a RED hood on the unit negating the conditions of sale set forth. This unit was advertised, and sold with a BLACK hood installed. Not a Red one with too much, (by a couple grams) blue tint retained to the color mix rendering a "shade off" to suit the truck. I don't feel like a "screwed pooch" often, but this is one of those times. It's all your fault. Rob

I'm gonna swing through OH and get a lot of things!! Hopefully next week. Gotta get some folks together and hopefully one won't be pissed at me for selling a mixer. Rob

Hey Joe, he ought to be gone now fer a spell. I'll swing by and pick ya up and we'll go get us a mixer. I think we can get it delivered before the former owner gets back. Rob

Although it will tire you out in a hurry, apply a smart "slap" with a 12 pound hammer to the outer rail where the wedge is jammed inside and stuck. This may take a few times. If you have access to a small jackhammer the job is not too bad even when rails are damn near fused. Use a blunt ended bit. The impacts and resonance will separate the two frame sections. As the sections release, force the wedge in further until they come apart. Rob

Don't quit your day job.

I just grab dem dar sticks and push/pull as hard as I can and they slip right in after "break in". I gotta agree with the other guys that have posted as that routine works for me. I never shift both at the same time as my mind does not process fast enough. Rob

I've always "ragged" the depression for the grille shell because that is easy to do. If it got down to the metal don't just put paint on it, get a small can of epoxy primer from the hardware store as paint is not "direct to metal". Did you "whack his nuts off", or is that pleasure reserved for me? Rob

The starting up part is good. I won't need my come-a-long as the trailer has no winch. I'll bring a siphon pump cause the new owner is not paying enough to warrant that much "free fuel". I'll use it in another truck. By the way, how old are the batteries; I could use a new set in my truck. Rob

Damn, now I got to go wipe my chin I'm salivating and soaking my "T" shirt so hard over the mention of such fine cuisine. Rob

The oil cooler that I have has the front busted out from impact with the front crossmember. It is different than the spin on type because of the hose connections but if I remember correctly, only the back housing is different. I will look tomorrow to see if it is usable. I know the hoses are scrap on this engine. Rob

That's good; Me and Joe will be after it later in the week. The new owner insisted on a shiney hood so we had to forestall delivery till you could get it reinstalled. Gonna use Pauls' trailer and we're gonna double team to ensure timely delivery. Christmas is getting close you know. Rob

Hmmm. Community pegboard?? Rob

Yes there is a French Lick, IN. Been there. Home of Larry Bird. Never a basketball fan myself but son is/was. Rob

Wanna know something that is the absolute truth? I was 24 years old when I graduated high school in December, 1984. I was also the only one of my "litter" not "retained in kindergarten" out of five of us. Again, those two items are factual with no bullshit added. I started school in the fall of 1965, so that seems like 19 years of education if I learned to count correctly. No wonder I'm so f8@#$%9 smart!! Almost a genius, I am. Rob

I never knew what the thing was actually called. I assume that LuberFiner manufactured it as that is where I've always obtained filters from. Rob

Did you expect less? It is a Mack. It will start. Faith is half the battle. Rob

I've got a 1970 ENDT865 from an "F" model with a luberfiner full flow filter. It does not have spin on filters. Rob

That is pretty good Thad. Seeing that I'm a federal employee, I've got a couple of asswipes that I have to call bosses that I'm sure to give that to. Rob

It is Ken. This is the "odds and ends" section of the board. I am the "odd" one. The end, well I don't know anything about that. Rob

The bolt pattern for the bolts is the same on the lighter steer axles on the B and early R models. I've done that too but those brackets are getting scarce. I think that 73 and newer started with a physically larger steering axle across the R model line. Rob

If it is still a 6 volt system try to crank the engine for a short time with a 12 volt jump. This sounds like a high resistance connection whether it be the magnetic switch, (solenoid), the rotor winding, or the interconnecting wiring. If you get a shunt type ammeter and place it inline of the starter cable then watch the meter deflection for peak amps will tell a lot while you crank the engine. A high amperage draw is indicative of a bad electrical connection loosing voltage to the starter. If you see an abnormal ampere reading then remove the starter motor and have it evaluated by an electical shop. Rob