Rob

Nice to hear you find happiness. 41 years now for me & "Momma" and she still threatens routinely to "stomp my grapes"????? Hope you fare better.

Yes, modern but very much "in touch" with it's roots. I too like it.

Looks well cared for.

Vacuum should be 29.992" to ensure efficient "boiloff" of any contained refrigerant/moisture within the remaining lubricant in the system. Close enough to 30" which is not attainable on the planet.

I like 100 as it's a good medium viscosity oil. Yes, put a capsule of dye into the system. Replace all "O" rings you have taken apart and it's wouldn't be a bad idea to renew the seal a the lineset where it attaches to the compressor and receiver/dryer assemblies too. These sealing rings wear/age over time. If the system has been setting idle for an extended time I would replace the drier assembly too. That is the black cannister looking thing in the system under the hood. The evaporator core in the dash would be quite easy to remove to physically clean it with the system dumped and this would greatly help your comfort level once the system is back operational. I would dump two ounces of PAG oil into the receiver/drier's inlet, button the system up, pull a vacuum on the system allowing it to dwell for an hour, (or more) to thoroughly evacuate any moisture present, then pressurize the system to 50psi with nitrogen administered with your service manifold set. Allow this charge to dwell in the system for an hour and check for any leakdown of pressure to ensure no leaks. If good, evacuate the system again with your vacuum pump and charge according to a vapor pressure charge reflecting the ambient temperature and the refrigerant you are using. System temperatures and pressures change with ambient temperature but ensure you have good airflow over the condenser coil in front of the radiator. A box, or tubeaxial fan is what I use and allow that system to operate in excess of 1/2 hour after you think it's good for stabilization. I hate "comebacks" because I got in a hurry.....

Be very accurate in the dimensions you supply them as their tolerances are very tight. You specify a 3.25" top flange and that is what you will get as near exact as can be manufactured. Talk to Taja, whom knows the business well. She will send you a diagram you place your measurements upon and send it back. They will confirm and your rails will be produced on short order.

And those roof mount antennas are usually detrimental to the roof skin too. I've patched several over the years and the antennas have been relocated.

Imagine those things landing and taking off from your roof!!! On my first "cruise", I could touch the underside of the flight deck at the #3 wire. You could watch the PLAT camera feed, (which was live) and feel the tailhook slam down onto the steel deck and "SCREECH" very loudly dragging the aircraft to a stop. That impact along with the drag brakes for the arresting cables were damned hard to get any sleep through during flight ops..... Of course full stage afterburning TF-30, J-79, and F-404 engines on the catapults weren't none to quiet either..... Some of the memories I'll never forget.

Thinking the galvanizing was an option earlier than 1985 as my 1978 cab I removed from a wrecked fire truck with 24,000 on the clock and it was original to the apparatus. I also incorrectly stated the 1981 cab year. It is a 1991, also from a low mileage wrecked truck.

I think 1985 was the first year offering of the galvanized cab. Most 1986 and newer cabs I have seen are galvanized. The 1986 cab I have on a 1977 R model was a slip fit. I also have a very clean 1978 cab, and a 1981 cab which are both galvanized and scheduled for project trucks in the shop.

https://www.pgadams.com/

Can't you install a Stemco "Hub-O-Meter on one of the drive axles to record mileage? Lot's less expensive that a replacement speedometer head?

But if you don't install a reman or replacement connecting rod on that journal the problem very likely will reappear. Usually the rod journal is beat out of round with a spun bearing if allowed to run and knock.

Use PAG, or Ester oil only. Do not use conventional lubricant such as engine oil. Both PAG, and Ester oil are compatible with each other but use the lubricant that is in the system along with the refrigerant. Mineral oil is NOT compatible with R-134A.

Those were some good ones for sure. Good starters in the cold and delivered very good economy.

Part of the former Schilli yard in E. St. Louis operations. Used to be several of them there to right derailed cars and such upon need. Last one I seen operate was the track intersection at Gustine and Itaska streets in south St. Louis when they rebuilt the intersection after an ore train derailed. The "Golden Eagle" line used to really roll through there and provided us with ample supplies of slingshot ammunition. International Shoe provided us with all the leather we could use, Monsanto the rubber bands, and a cordage company, (of which the name slips me) provided the string. All we needed was a Willow branch of which there were several in the neighborhood and Carondelet Park was loaded with them too. Cops never bothered a kid with a big ole slingshot hanging out of his back pocket and a large bags of ammo hanging on his sides. I'm sure times have changed however.

When I was in the navy we hangered next to the CH-53E hangers in Norfolk, VA. Got to see those things torn all apart several times. Never did work on one however as a different squadron but I knew a couple folks over there from "A" school so used to visit often as they did me when I'd have a radar set opened bare.

My B-673 is a concave cab and it's cozy but comfortable to drive. Keep in mind the steering wheel is 20" diameter instead of the normal 22" that a standard B-61 uses. You still don't want to drive in a white Tee shirt unless favoring pissing the laundry caretaker off but good however.

There was one of them at the South Bend show that was banged up pretty good in transit. Something went through the left windshield and I think bent up the roof too. Believe it was an R model but don't remember for sure as it was getting dark when I seen it.

Yup, backwards from what I was told but that is a while back. I also asked about the fishbelly as I was looking at a B-53 at the time and didn't acquire the truck as was told they could not do them.

They must not have been able to control the "springback" acceptably well enough to offer for production then. This was explained when I asked.

last set of rails I'd purchased from them, (PG Adams) I was told they were starting to offer the splay. That was back in 2013. They were not offering the "fishbelly" however.

When you "spin" a rod bearing it typically damages the crankshaft journal the bearing rotates around. Given your replacement bearing only lasted a very short time, this I'm afraid is the case here. The crankshaft will require removal and machine shop work require expensive equipment. Your best and quickest route would be to replace the engine either complete, or long block, reutilizing many parts on your existing engine. You could install a short block also but that is going to take more time than a long block to dress up for reinstallation into your chassis. You are looking at a pretty fair sum to get back operational regardless. If time is of the essence, I would look for a salvage engine which is the quickest route and there are good ones out there. I can't vouch for upping the horsepower rating as the platform is much too modern for my antiquated thought processes.

here is a good Brigadier if anyone is interested. I welded the frame trusses in years ago which can be seen in photos 1 & 4. Always been a good running truck but LOUD!! https://peoria.craigslist.org/hvo/d/metamora-1986-gmc-brigadier-grain-truck/6931413384.html

Mine only went with me once. Swore she was gonna either turn the truck over, or rip that grab bar out of the door jamb cause their ain't no way that truck was designed for that kind of abuse. Then she bitched about the rotary knob to open the vent window, then about the roof air giving her a headache, then about the cab smelling "greasy", then something else before I got her volume drowned out with the aftermarket stereo to which she ceased flapping her trap. I don't normally play a radio when driving but that was an exception.