Rob

Use heat. Get them warm, let them cool, get them warm again, then allow to cool again. Spray with penetrant when they are cooling the last time to where they can be touched without burning skin, then try to loosen. You can also grab with vise grip pliers and while applying twisting force, wrap pliers with hammer. The force and vibration will help to loosen also. I use an air hammer myself but not everyone has that option. Rob

They don't have mine neither. The laser beam projecting through the crescent shaped window in the door blinds cameras. Rob

I've got a similar pair screwed to the bathroom wall about waist high. I used the reflection for pimple poppin on my ass cheeks. They look like security mirrors for placement around something you don't want items swiped from; But, that's just a guess. Rob

I snapped this from the front porch earlier this morning. New trick for the dog and she really didn't care much for it. Seen this owl in the trees so snapped a photo. I can watch nature for hours without boredom. The nest was just out of the cameras' eye, and I suspect this was a mother. Rob

Just rolling back into town. Been holding down one of the kitchen chairs chowing on mother in laws cookin for the past couple days. Had son, daughter, dogs, hot dogs, chilli, cornbread, and all the good eatin stuff for Easter that could be had. NO eggs!! Momma says if I eat eggs, I sleep in a tent as she don't feel like gettin involved in another one of our "contests" to see who leaves first from a closed room, (I always win). Don't much get eggs no more cause of the last fiasco involving cops, eggs, and public transportation. Ya see, other people don't much care about me and Momma's "contests" on the bus; That's when the cops got called, and we had to walk to work in the cold. My silk shorts are damned cold on my ass cheeks so don't want to make that mistake again. On the brighter side, there are always seats available now for us both, and people actually move so we can sit. Only thing that went less than perfect yesterday was when the floor gave way under my chair in the trailer house from a leaking roof. I was hobbling over to sit down, pulled out the chair, stepped foward and when the particle board floor busted through, I caught my ear on the wagon wheel lamp fixture hanging from the ceiling. Of course this damned thing had to rip loose from it's mountings in the fiberboard ceiling panel and fortunately the wires stopped it from crashing down into my bowl of chilli. I then got myself situated, sat down and stirred the chilli so I didn't have to look at the crusty looking garbage sitting on top. Tasteless stuff really as I didn't even know it was there. I did stir Mommas' bowl also when she wasn't looking or she might have been pissed at me again. Earlier in the day I came to the table having not washed my hands after removing the "cheese" from between my toes. She really was unimpressed about that too.... Couldn't have been too bad cause she didn't say nothing when eating about it. My son bandaged up my leg as I only had undershorts on so got scraped up a little bit. Daughter got a clean pillowcase to use as a bandage while mother in law liberally applied "Neosporin" to promote rapid healing. You see, these people really do think I be special. The rest of the Easter get together was uneventful. Didn't get to talk no trucks as nobody else was there except us. Far as that load of rebar: Where's it going, and how long, and what day are you leaving? I've done zero'd in on the mixer and am in bad need of good, useable parts, (especially a nicely painted hood). Hope you all had a great day also!! Rob

Sheeeesh, I squinted so hard I thought I was blind and it still don't look like no Mack truck to me. But then again, what do I know????? Just the sight of another "M A C K" round here will send Momma over the edge I'm sure. I"ll never forget the sound of the grinder she just got, and the sheer pleasure she had in carving on that hot dog, so I'm still on the bestest behaver I can muster. Rob

Guy sure seems proud of this jewell. Rob http://maine.craigslist.org/cto/1112962360.html

Just don't forget the Harley. Don't want to have to deal with no pissed off Momma. Rob

Yeah Larry, that is exactly what I do. I've tried several times to use photobucket. Sometimes I can get in, sometimes I can't. I've changed passwords, emails, and personal contact information a couple of different times with no joy. Finally figgered out how to rotate, and save my photos so they'll print correctly. Rob

Daughter just docked two Doberman Pincher pups' ears this morning and saved em for me. I KNOW what is for dinner tomorrow. She disposed of the tails as there is just too little meat to work with. Beats the shit out of that scab sandwich and nice warm glass of puss I had tonight. Rob

cholestowhat????? Bacon is so good, it's practically a health food. Rob

Condensation more than anything Joe. The cab structure is/was bare carbon steel until the 1985? model year when "Galvaneal" was started to be used for slowing this degradation down. The when the roof skin is cold it draws moisture. This moisture is trapped between the layers of steel that form the rain gutter, roof skin, and cab structure. Any corrosion prevention that is placed onto the bare steel sheeting is burned away during the manufacturing process, (spot welding). Unfortunately, nothing is effectively placed correctly to aleviate the slow decay that starts immediately after being exposed to the elements. If the area is not warm to drive the moisture out, then sealed with a weatherproof sealant or encapsulant it will draw fresh moisture from the air that condenses on the steel. When these trucks were fairly new and not rusted, I could skin the roof in about 4.5 hours, and not have to paint below the gutter. When you have to go after the rust, it will take three times that to make an effective repair, and most of the cab will have to be painted. Sorry that I forgot to orient the photos before posting them. Could make anyone that drives a Pete too dizzy to drive with all that head bobbing. I used to know how to do this kind of shit and it comes back to me ever now and then. Rob

I feel much better now and am ready to commence counting sheep. Thank you. Rob

I think Yellow Freight has the same type setup on their trucks as aftermarket add on. I know the button is red, and says "override" also. Rob

About six months ago I was quoted at $3.15 loaded mile from the western US to Illinois for a full lowboy trailer load with a R model Mack. I did not take it. Log onto Uship.com, set up an account, (it's free) and post your wanted ad. You will get offers quickly for the large stuff. Rob

Ok Gents, here is the balance with the roof skin completely removed. As you can see there was rust in between the sandwich of metal consisting of the roof skin, and the interior structure. This is why I went the trouble to remove the balance of the skin that could be buried under the new panel. If the rust is not removed at this point, the repair will be short lived. I've not ground anything yet as I wanted you to see the amount of spot welding that holds just the roof skin to the cab. These spot welds are placed about every 1/2 inch apart consistently around the perimeter. The balance of the cab structure is put together much the same way. I have spent about an hour and a half just drilling welds. I've probably expended about 45 minutes center punching each weld to ensure the cutter doesn't walk. What is amazing about these rotary cutters is that I did not go through the bottom of the sandwich once in all that drilling. When I put this back together, I will dump the gutter full of self leveling seam sealer inside, and outside. It will be effectively water tight in these areas. Theoretically, it should never rust again. They don't do this at assembly due to cost. I will have over $100.00 in sealer alone. Had to knock off early tonight. All that climbing on the ladder, and standing on the underhood crossbars for support, coupled with Mommas' demade to be on top last night has worn my back out and it needs a rest. Think I'm gonna sit on my ass in front of this computer to ensure nobody compromises my honor this evening; Especially Other Dog. Rob

I'll have to ask Momma how many pairs of those Bacon shorts sewn together would fit her? Rob

That is the old hood that is busted up internally. That is why I did not repair it. Rob

No, this one doesn't work the same as others to place photos. Rob

This is the mouse nest that started this mess:

Larry, I have always hit the "browse" and upload buttons. I'll try to post as you suggest just didn't know that worked on this site. Rob

Mike, It's all just a guess. I suppose it could work though. Rob

I use 1500 dry, followed with 3000 wet. Then compound to shine. You can skip the 3000, just takes a little more effort with the buffer. I like wool pads for most applications with foam being used for finessing. By using the 3000, pads last significantly longer and at near $30.00 apiece, that adds up. Color bleed? That only happens with the lesser quality tapes, and masking papers. I use only 3M tape, and masking paper. Norton products are less expensive and some of their sandpapers wear as well as 3M, but I buy in case lots so get decent pricing from my supplier(s). This way there is never a problem or warranty issue should a product fail. There are a hundred ways to do the same job to achieve the same result. Back in the days when lacquer was the prevelant refinish product I used 600 wet to color sand with. When clearcoats began to become mainstream the need to go to a finer paper arose and most of the shops went to 1000-1200 grit wet to color sand by hand with. This operation will make a guy tired at best. The finer grits are used on a d/a sander with a soft foam interface pad. I don't mean to hawk 3M products but they perform as advertised so I stick with them. The shops really don't make money on the products they use so it is a passthrough expense. I can't justify the time lost due to defective/ineffective merchandise/materials and have found this to be the best practice. Rob

If you are applying a second color over an existing color, there is no way to avoid that "tape line". By using a specific tape for that purpose such as 3M "fine line", it can be significantly reduced in thickness for a much softer edge but the thickness difference of the coating is still present. On a new panel or repaint using base/clear, I typically spray the smaller color first, then mask it, then spray the second larger color. When this second color has set up, I remove the mask and clear the panel complete. This leaves us a color difference line that you cannot detect if dressed down correctly. Rob

Sometime down the road I'll come up with a fiberglass removable hardtop for the cabs. Right now I'm kinda wanting to get this one on the road. All the trucks that I have and not a single one I'd feel comfortable jumping in and driving a 1000 miles at the present time. Rob