Rob

That is the easiest approach and the 24 series of chambers will stop all but the heaviest of loads adequately. Rob

Are the harmonic balancers on these engines a silicone filled type, or just rubber internally? I ask because Detroit Diesel 12V engines have a silicone filled balancer that requires testing/replacement at overhaul time for the same basic reasons you mention. Thanks, Rob

New photos. Man that is short. Got to be like a buckboard on choppy roads. A trailer will tame it down some yes, but air at the rear will work wonders. Rob

Most of the 38,000# axles that I've been around have the stamped steel backing plates that are more of a dust guard that anything. The cast steel backing plates are on 40,000# and up setups. They support the original rotochambers and will not clear anything larger than a type 20 modern chamber. If you cut the mounting ears for the rotochambers off and add an extension to them, then mount offset slack adjusters you can get type 24/24 chambers mounted readily as they will now clear. If you want to go to 30/30 type chambers, (reccomended), then you need to get longer "S" cams and use an outer support for them. I've seen people use "R" model mounts, and/or fabricate their own to make it work. If I remember correctly, the "R" model type chamber mounting brackets mount to the center of the axle housing and will mount the chamber more internal to the center of the truck. I've never actually performed this myself, (type 30/30 mountings) but have seen it several times on B model Macks and I'm going from memory. Glenn will probably come along and clarify in a bit. Rob

I'm WAY beyond that point........ Rob

I'm not normally a green person, but I really like the thought and talent that went into putting that unit together. You have every right to be proud. Rob

American Carrier Superride was what they were called. Nice people to talk with and as Paul said a nice product offered. I would seriously look at the air ride cutoff Glenn has. He says it is in good shape, and I would take stock in that. Rob

That's a 400kw set on the back of the 12V. I am expecting to pull about 250-270kw out of it with the 8V installed now on a resistive load bank. If I were to install repulsion type motors on the drive axles, I could have infinitly variable groundspeed and locomotive quality torque output from each wheel. Wouln't even need brakes as slowing the field speed through the motors would brake the unit. Yeah, it would work but I think I'll stay with the mechanical driveline for now. This is just a prototype for fun. The truck is nothing special and really quite shot, (rust) so it is the one to modify. Rob

And a welcome to you; Glad to have you here. A lot of folks collect antique farm tractors around here and I have one or two a year to paint up nice in the shop. Lots of green, red, orange, and tan/red still around at our local homecomings, and sports parades. Always a good time to see restored tractors, and trucks being out and about. Again, welcome to the site, enjoy yourself, and participate. Rob

Yes it does to me also. Would be a little concerned why it was taken apart and not finished? Rob

Hi Tony, replacing the fuel filter is not difficult as there are a lot of filter mountings readily obtainable for a modern spin on type arrangement that are easily bolted on after fashioning a braket to retain it. I see them on ebay often. The Luberfiner 500 you currently have on the engine is a bypass oil filter and there is really nothing wrong with it, but there are spin on adapter kits available to replace it also. Barry on this site has, or used to have them available in the B model store. Rob

Yes Glenn, the space is very tight at the firewall. If at all possible, I'm trying to not modify the firewall but will if need be. I have both auxillary sheaves in the front of the engine and plan to use one to drive an a/c compressor, and the other to run the alternator, and compressor. I'm really wanting to leave the turbochargers where they are as to not expend a lot of money on custom exhaust. I certainly agree about belt driving the compressor and would rather have it gear driven. It would not be too difficult to cut a window into the firewall of the cab and fabricate an access panel/cover. So much of this project will be hand fabricated that any ideas are considered. Here's a couple photos of the genset in front of my shop when I brought it home. The 12V is now replaced with an 8V and the 12V has an SAE #1 flywheel housing installed. I think it can be seen about the orientation of the turbochargers to the flywheel housing parting flange in the photos. May have to move the engine and transmission a bit forward in the chassis to make it fit/function correctly. Won't really know that until everything is ready for "dry fit". I love prototyping so this will be interesting. Rob

The pump is direct mount to the engine. The mounting flange is already installed onto the pilot of the pump. The needed brackets are for other ancillary equipment. Rob

Yes I do want to use the brackets that are fabricated for their intended purpose. I never was into "abstact art", so I would not be proficient with aforementioned manufacturing method(s). Not to discount your abilities but this is a Mack, not a Pete, so it has to work; (Had to get that in there, (got a reputation to uphold you know))LOL. Rob

You have a valid point there Other Dog. In fact, some of the proceedures you mentioned will be followed quite effectively. That is the easy part. Engineering, and placement of the bends, and holes, is the crucial part to be correct. I will need to have your expert supervisory skills within easy reach when I set out on this endeavor. Rob

I acquired this p/s pump from a guy with a blown 8V-92 for my 12V-71 transplant. I'm getting very close to the actual fitment process now as I've got nearly all little parts needed. I had a direct drive pump with a self contained reservoir attached to it, and space being a real premium at the firewall, could not use it. This pump uses a remote reservoir and should fit nicely driven from the left camshaft viewed from flywheel end of engine. There is also no room to direct drive the air compressor, so it will be mounted on top of the engine, and belt driven also. Going to be a real test of my bracket mastery cause I'm going to need to fabricate nearly all of them. Looking forward to this adventure....... Rob

Crisco is good sprinkled with cimmamon by the tablespoon. Sorta like eating seasoned oysters. Constipation is a thing of the past and never troubles me further. Rob

You lost $700.00 on that truck? And you think I'm ignorant?? I learned several years ago to NEVER ARGUE WITH AN IDIOT. Rob

You have a point well tanken!! Maybe I should not try to keep the dog out of the dumpster!! Rob

Hi James, you bring up some very valid points. I wonder how the leftover water would work on my foot stench and fungus growth? That would really get rid of the complaints if successful. The dog sleeps with us at night. If we could just get it to quit raiding the next door restaurants dumpster, we would both be happy. He doesn't go hungry so don't know how appealing the water would be to him. Rob

Hi Macks, I can certainly agree that a dump truck would be annoying if noisey. My R795 truck has dual stacks with turnouts about a foot above the cab roof. I think the engine makes more operational noise than is emmited from the exhaust but I've never "worked" the truck. I also say this unknowing as to the true exhaust tone because I've always driven, and not heard the truck drive off. I'm not one that is into a lot of "flash" and chrome. A nice single chrome stack 18-24" out of the top of the muffler is fine with me and a stainless burn guard is about all that is required. Rob

Have to agree!! Rob

You are incorrect in your assumption. Still sound like a "profiteer" to me. Found good homes for at least 20 trucks, hmmmmm. Your community service is commendable; I'm sure this was done from the "goodness of your heart". Your emmotionally charged responses do not support your cause favorably. Rob

PAI's complete "selectair" valve is not out of line on price as I think mine was about $60.00. I did not use it as I actually "boiled" mine in hot water, (yes, on the stove) to clean the accumulated garbage/buildup from it. It works as new now. Mine had probably never had the air filter changed in it's lifetime, (exaggeration). My shift cylinder kept leaking internally around the hi/low piston internal to the transmission. I found it by removing only one top cover bolt and it was like a tornado through a keyhole from the air escaping. I then removed the shift cover, tore it completely down again, boiled it, (same way on the stove), then honed the cylinder with a small cylinder hone and boiled it again. It was then put back together without any problems, (so far). I guess now you can see why "Momma" gets so angry with me. At least I changed the water before boiling the hot dogs in the same pan. Rob

Don't mean to sound negative to your cause but if you continue to align yourself along the lines of someone trying to profit from antique trucks using contacts on these couple of websites, you will quickly find yourself "out of favor" with those that enjoy trying to help you. If you enjoy antique trucks for what they are and not a profit potential item, you will fit right in. A lot of folks have spent many, many years in the saddle, (both behind the wheel, and repairing) these old trucks, and enjoy sharing/helping others with their endeavors, but if it is behind the curtain to help someone resale a truck, it will not go on long. I feel a true "collector" would have kept that Autocar tractor you had. There is going to have to be a lot of time and effort expended to come up with something as nice as that truck was represented. Again, don't mean to be negative but you are charting a path that is not in your long term favor. I ask a lot of questions enlisting the help from a lot of experienced folks on the websites. I have many years in the paint and body repair business but consider myself no expert on anything as there is always a new trick to learn. Nothing I ask is "pegging" people for infomation to facilitate a sale without openly telling folks exactly that. Just offering unsolicited words of caution to you. Hope you enjoy your B model acquisition. Rob