Rob

Need to determine if it is oil bypass, or as Glenn mentioned "steam" which is indicative of coolant in the oil. Swipe the internal surface of the vent hose to ascertain whether oily residue, or coolant which will be sort of "sweet" smelling. Although the smoking or steaming is abnormal and indicative of wear, I've seen a lot of old Thermodyne engines smoke, or steam like that and run/work quite well.

Hit in the wheel bending steering and suspension parts.

Send the pump and injectors at the same time to the fuel shop. Best all be calibrated together and balanced.

Looks like a "Swift" driver did his part. Seriously however that is not too bad if parts can be found. Shame too as the truck has had a lot of time put into it.

The REO engine only had two nuts retaining the rocker arm cover where the Continental OHV engines used four IIRC.

https://twitter.com/lonestarmango/status/1397739659204067329

I tried this once on a B61ST with a removed rear rear differential and driveshafts. I don't think your truck will want to move with the automatic power divider. The driveline torque will pass right through the front differential. An air locked power divider you can drive a short distance with the rear rear driveshaft removed, but be ginger on the throttle.

Both the REO Gold Comet, and IH Red Diamond series were popular engine swaps when these trucks routinely operated. Considerably more power than the EN-401/402 Mack flathead gasoline engines.

Reo Gold Comet Six

If it's original to the chassis I'm wondering if a glider kit? Can't remember if the RD series was offered as a glider that late or not however. There are written procedures for testing the operation of a thermostatic viscous fan clutch and only requires a piece of cardboard and non contact thermometer. Basically with the engine under 100 degrees(F) pull the fan through a few rotations by hand till it eases in effort to turn. Then start the engine and with the radiator blocked allow to warm to about 200-210 degrees(F), shut the engine down and physically pull the fan blade around, (by hand). The effort needed when hot should be significantly greater than when cold. If near rigid, the fan clutch is good. If still relatively easy to turn the fan by hand, replace the marginal fan clutch.

Those of us that lived through trying to raise young families in the Carter era remember the time very well; it is not favorable and for most, "indelible" in memories.

Engine would have to be a transplant into the chassis but I've seen similar so not doubting.

Horton used to market an air fan clutch kit but not any longer shown here: They don't seem to offer any upgrades either. Replace the viscous fan clutch assembly as they usually default to full time operation when no longer working correctly meaning sensing temperature correctly. Better to over run the fan than not run it and cook the engine.

I've not been following the thread but you do have the original engine in the chassis and it is a 4 valve head correct? As Joey said there are several variants of cam, and main bearings used over the years and I always ensured the block casting numbers corresponded to the ordered parts. On more than one occasion I'd received the incorrect main bearing set, and same with the cam bearing set. Hoping you don't have a big "blob" of RTV residing in an internal passage someplace as I don't get the impression you were very impressed with your terminated mechanic's abilities.

Years ago I had a International K series bottle truck that was that yellow and you could plainly see where it was paint lettered on the doors "Coca-Cola" in their letting font of the time. I think that truck was late 1930's or early 1940's but far to gone to work with. I donated it to a guy whom used it for parts.

No shortage in central Illinois I've noticed but as TJC stated, prices are up about a quarter from a month ago.

I would agree Paul but I'll not use it for anything except moving trailers around the property to mow. That air compressor has almost 350# of tongue weight to it when horizontal to the ground and it is so much easier to not have to use a truck to move it. I purchased that tractor in April of 1997 out of the weeds as the owner said the engine was blown. All it had wrong was a rusted/corroded starter motor brush holder. After telling the former owner what the problem was and offering the tractor back to him for repair costs, he told me "I" got a good deal on a tractor has he'd already replaced it. Been a good one and I like it but "Honkey" is so much nicer to mow with having the power needed for my mower deck.

SOB I like this hitch. Makes moving things around the shop so much easier: Back up, lift the 3point and go.

Silence suggests agreement.

You are correct Larry.

Pull the heater core out of the housing. I'd bet the a/c evaporator has a "carpet" of dirt buildup on it's front side restricting airflow. Much easier to thoroughly clean with the heater core out of the way and you don't have to dump the a/c charge.

If I were going to go with a V6 Detroit Diesel it would be a 6V-92TA as they will deliver the power and longevity required not requiring and air to air intercooler. The package is no larger than a 6V-71 but just a bit taller citing turbocharger installation. However It would be a problem to access the parts driven from the rear of the engine with it in the chassis without a doghouse. Power steering pump, alternator, (many times) air compressor, and near anything ancillary. With fabrication these can be easily driven from the front but it may get crowded. Lots of versatility in a Detroit Diesel for sure.