Rob

At least one of us believes the story. Rob

Hi Gav, I'm outside of Peoria, IL, (USA). I've not mastered shifting both sticks a the same time myself. Some of the parts for these "older" transmissions are getting so difficult to acquire that I'm hesitant to teach myself. I do acceptable with shifting one at a time. My trucks with auxillary transmissions are all very well spaced in the gear spread with probably about 150-175 rpm drop between upshifts. A sharp "blip" of the throttle while passing through neutral in the main is what works for me, just have to be quick about it. Personally, I really like the tri-plex transmission. I have one truck with a quad but have never had a load on so can't fairly judge it complete. Very smooth in operation from what I've experienced. Rob

So that's what the sister looks like. He always arrives before I in the morning and I've been told she is really something to see. That photo must have been taken when he was on lunch break. I've told him a couple of times that before you warm up condiments, take the lid loose, or open the package to relieve pressure before heating. This clown as can be ascertained by the photo is about as smart as "Box of Rocks", and refuses to learn from past mistakes. Sure does a good job plunging the toilet though. Rob

Hi Michael, thanks for your input and reccomendations. I have completely rebuilt my shift top cover, all shift cylinders, and checked regulator pressures to each one. Also rebuilt the valve in the cab. This truck had sat for nine years without being started prior to my ownership and my problem is most likely nothing more than lack of use. It is a "one finger" ordeal to slide the clutch gear when the top cover is off, and the engine is not running, and the shifting (when proper) is very quiet. I have no air leakage any longer that I've detected and the problem is much more pronounced when the truck is cold. At this point it is not totally reliable and I may up the pressure to that cylinder as the other functions work very well without delay. Thanks, Rob

It is not MANLY to follow the instruction manual(s). Rob

I don't feel weird; Just special. Rob

Hi Jeff, my regulators are all working correctly. The transmission does not shift from forward to reverse 100% of the time when the valve is flipped. What I meant with the clunking into gear is when the main is in neutral position and the flipper is selected to reverse, the trans does not always shift into reverse. I then have to put the main in gear, and engage the clutch to load the gearing, and mainshaft, then disengage the clutch and the gear slides, (usually). When it slides the mainshaft is still spinning and this reverse engagement is not at all smooth jerking the truck. Really don't want to destroy anything and this may be a "nature of the beast" but having no experience, figgered I'd ask. There are times though that the thing will not go into reverse for several iterations of this. I've moved the truck near five feet forward before it will shift to reverse a couple of times. Certainly wouldn't want to butt the front bumper against a wall, and not be able to back out because reverse will not select. Thanks, Rob

Do any of you guys that have either the air shifted six, 10, or 12 speed transmissions have any problems with rapid engagement of reverse from forward position? On my 10 speed, sometimes is readily slips into reverse, and sometimes I have to let the clutch out in neutral to release the gear bind before it will switch positions. Can be kind of annoying because when it jumps into reverse when the mainshaft is still turning, it really lurches. I usually wait about 3-5 seconds before switching after stabbing the clutch pedal to let the trans stop spinning, then let the clutch out gingerly and if not engaged, it goes right in. The clutch brake is shot so it is useless. Last evening it was getting cold outside and it is the first time I've really had it out since the shift plate rebuild when cold. I don't have antifreeze in the cooling system yet so it can't stay outside. Rob

I've got a whole section of the ENDT-1000 series of engine. Is that by chance what you mean? Rob

I have not and am really behind the eight ball so to speak cause it really needs done. I don't have anti-freeze in the system, so it remains inside the heated building. I may need to make it a precedence because I need the room, and it can't go outside for long. I actually drove it again this evening as "Mack Anxiety" is creeping up from not having something fun to drive around. I'll keep you posted. Thanks, Rob

Hi Gav, that sounds like too wide of spread between high in the auxillary, and the upshift in the main. Almost like a mismatch when the truck was put together. A proper driveline would have let you slip into gears readily like a Mack does. Really doesn't matter if the two are separate, or married, they should shift easily. Rob

Tonight I replaced the PP-1, and the PP-7 that were leaking. I had to use a known good PP-7 as the new one that I had did not have the proper ports threaded. It was missing the 1/8th pipe thread on the left side, (looking at from the front). All functions are working properly with no air leakage, (that I can hear) under the dash any longer. Rob

Well I sprung for all three new valves in the cab for my 73 RL. I got two PP-1 valves, and a PP-7 valve cause they all leak when actuated although they perform their intended functions, (I think). I spent some of yesterday at the shop testing the various relay, quick release, tractor protection and air diaphragm functions on the truck. I pulled the pilot line from the rear mounted relay valve, (R-5, I think) and when depressing the brake valve shot a stream of oil about 2 ft.!! Well I know that just aint right so I started disconnecting the air line at the compressor and it is dry, and clean. The compressor itself is a reman unit and it appears that when it was replaced the air lines and tanks were not blown clean. Best I can tell this residual oil is from the compressor mounted prior. The main line to the relay valve did not have any oil content at all. I then took the line loose at the foot valve and it appeares to be clean also. I then got out my blow gun with suction hose and rinsed the hose out with denatured alcohol till it was clean. That is the only line that had oil in it. The wet tank has oil in it and has been drained but not cleansed it internally. Plan to do that in the future. Let me see if I understand these functions correctly: The PP-1 valve, (yellow handle) that releases the tractor brakes charges both the PP-1, (blue handle), and the PP-7 (red handle) with supply air. My PP-1 with the blue handle does not need to be manually pushed in to release tractor brakes. After air is built up through the PP-1, (yellow handle) the red handle can be pushed in to charge the trailer glad hands via the TP-3 valve. Currently the PP-7 valve leaks so severely it has to be manually held in for at least 30 seconds before it will remain pushed in and the leak slows. I soaped nearly every single connection under the truck and on the engine with 150 psi of shop air applied to the tanks and no leaks at all with the aeroquip hose. The only leaks are under the dash, (best I can tell) and hopefully they will disappear with changing out these valves. Also had taken the air-o-matic steering cylinder apart earlier and it was loaded with engine oil on both sides of the piston, but the lines to it were clear. The torque valve appears to work properly but I've not used pressure gauges on it yet. Not really sure if it will go back on or not and am currently looking for a p/s setup. Any errors feel free to post. Thanks for listening. Rob

"Roo" bars did their job that time, didn't they? Rob

Oh Noooooooooooo! You plated the wrong side!!! Looks good. See you in Chicago. Rob

That is what I run in my Mack Diesels and have not had problems. Been using it about 17 years now. Same thing with the gensets at work that are not two stroke, (still use straight 30wt in those). Is your filter a bypass type for sure? That timeframe is about when they went to the full flow type. Rob

Agree wholeheartedly. Rob

Got one of these on your truck?

Yeah but she can sure carry a note!! I'm feeling a bit better but can't shake this damn cough. May have to take to drinking to sooth the throat and chest. Thanks for the well wish. Rob

Man do I agree with that. Rob

I can't answer that qualitatively as there are no splices in the aeroquip lines at all. The lines are point to point run, and have been there many years. The frame is aluminum and brown in color as are all the hoses, tanks, valves and all underpinnings. The 72 truck does not appear to be changed from "as built", but I'm not sure there either. Rob

Quite possibly there Greg. That Aeroquip hose is expensive and I'll bet there is in excess of 100 feet of different sizes on the 73 truck. It has wedge brakes and all five lines from each axle are aeroquip. It is also factory as the original paint on the frame also covers the hoses, fittings and everything else. Rob

Wow, a new recipe comes to mind!! How's about "Hot Diggity Dog"???? Got to dig through the water to find the delectable foodstuffs. I think I could make that work!! See ya in Chicago. Rob

I've got a 72 R685ST that is loaded with plastic lines, and an 73 RL797L that does not have any except the air shift lines, and underdash plumbing. The RL has all Aeroquip hoses and no plastic with the exception of the aforementioned areas. My 77 R795, and 78 RL755L have no Aeroquip lines at all. Everything is plastic after the air compressor. All of the trucks use a copper, or steel discharge line from the compressor that converts under the cabs to plastic or Aeroquip. Is this the difference between an eastern, and western built trucks? Rob

Glenn, are you looking for B model, or R model hubs? I'm sure you mean Mack axles correct? Rob