Rob

You guy's need to be careful with this subject. I could get "bothered" by some of the negativity I am sensing. I am the epitomy of tolerance and compassion, although I do have my limits. Momma may not be the most attractive person in the world to others, but she does give me great happiness inside. Besides, I followed my own advice: If you marry an ugly woman, you'll be happy when she leaves. Rob

I don't think Momma has been on any "Most Wanted" list, (except mine) and she never wanders far from home; I don't know but I think you've mistaken her for someone else. Rob

Prior to receiving my "Tiger Tool" pullers for this operation I did as someone suggested with the bottle jack on the end yoke, applying upward pressure. I would use a torch to lightly warm the yoke to expand it ever so slightly. They would usually pop free from the upward pressure of the jack without hammering. Myself, I've never had to cut the cross to get them apart. I don't work on trucks professionally, and am no authority in this matter. When the joint is removed and parts cleaned up, I would use an outside micrometer, or slide caliper and check the ears on the yoke to ensure it is not spread. From memory; A 1710 series joint will have 6.093 outer distance from ear to ear. If the measurement is more that about .015 from that, replace the yoke or your replacement joints will not last. You do not need enough heat to destroy the front oil seal in the rear axle carrier. Rob

Sure, photo taken at last year's New Year's Eve party at my mother in law's house; Of course after she'd had a "few". Rob

Lose the Yoplait. Tastes like shit, feels like snot, (this is according to Momma). Rob

I am the self proclaimed leader of the moral degradation of American society as can be ascertained by interpolation of the given factors. I had no idea "higher standards" would apply to this subject; Why join the conversation now? Rob

Hi Denny, I'm afraid you are going to have a rather difficult time locating these door cards. 1985 was the last year for the tan interior as the cabs went to the silver gray in 1986. On top of that, they were manufactured from materials that were not very long lasting, then not supported well by the manufacturer for the amount of them out there. I had mine remade in black, (my design) with embroidery to personalize them a little as I couldn't locate an acceptable pair for my usage. Rob

I don't remember the engine that is in it but I seem to remember an E6-350. If the truck does not have a multi-grade oil installed such as 15W-40, but rather a straight weight such as SAE 30, it will be damned hard to crank over at low temps unless it is equipt with an immersion heater that works. I would wrap a blanket, or tarp around the lower part of the truck and turn on a torpedo heater, (salamander) pointed under the truck for about 15 minutes. It will crank right over when the oil is thinned down a little bit from the heat. I would plan to change the oil and service the truck right after you got it to it's new place of residence. I'm not a big fan of ether, but a small shot in the air cleaner, or pipe to the turbo is where it goes. Best if someone is cranking the engine while another shoots the ether sparingly. There are no preheaters, or glow plugs to be concerned with. The engine is direct injected and does not use them. Rob

Warmer there today than here. AK is not always the coldest place to be. Rob from the most corrupt state in the union.

On the way to work this morning to check for damage:

Not what I would do. Patience can be a valuable tool in the long run. Flip side is that you have a definate need for the parts and I see nothing wrong with using a good, servicable donor for those parts. Nothing wrong with sacrificial rights for the good of the complete picture. I don't need the engine or trans as I have good spares, but may be interested in the balance. Just my thoughts. Worth nothing to anybody except me. Rob

I would say a Mack two stick six speed, Manual shifted should be worth about $500.00 with a guarantee to be good. An air shifted copy would be a bit higher, but I wouldn't go but maybe $150.00 more. If the transmission is the TRDXL with the extra low reduction, I would probably venture to say about a hundred dollars more each way. Now I really don't know and don't take my input as gospel. My own opinion is that a part for an antique, or hobby truck, should not be priced the same as a part going onto a working truck. That is why I never sell anything, but always look to trade so everybody wins. Rob

I need the same information as Glenn but in the game of one upmanship, I'll give you two feathers. Rob That is a class act of a truck. Good job. Now don't get my juices flowing cause I'll have to build one of those, and I don't need no more trucks! Momma would kill me for good as I'm on the "brink" right now.

I dragged my 1/2 frozen ass from bed this morning and Momma serves me a steaming hot cup of coffee in this here brand new mug. Don't know what the hell I did to deserve this and just figger she prolly wants something in the future, (like me taking a shower this month). Girl still loves me, I suppose. Rob

-16 DEGREES FARHEIENT HERE! Need to wear two pairs of underware to keep the boys warm this morning!! Rob

1/8th to 3/16th of an inch with a total stud length of 1/2" should do just fine. You could do away with the studs and replace with rivenuts as they are easy to work with once the setting tool is purchased. That way you would run a capscrew in from the backside of the grille shell and it would not be noticable from the face view. Rob

Digging deep into the cold storage locker of unintelligible intelligence: When the truck has set for a spell without air pressure, the internal "O" ring expands slightly making a seal against the bore. When air pressure is applied, the "O" ring is slightly compressed, and the escaping air from an ineffective seal lets the "O" rings take a set that does not seal until they are allowed to expand again. Those air cylinders have pressure applied on both sides of the piston during normal usage except when the funtion it performs is selected, then only one side of the piston is pressurized. Once the ring is compressed, it will remain that way until pressure is removed and the process starts again. If you were to get the area very warm they would work fine; They probably would work acceptable in the summer as they are due to expansion of the piston, bore, and rings. Just my opinion though. Rob

Typical of the problems you mention. Rob

Yes I agree good southern fried asphalt is a delicacy in these parts, but I only have three teeth, so it is a little difficult to chew. Rob

WTF?????? Short shaft with severe vibration problems? Be grateful for the big stopper on the end there cause your hand cold slip off otherwise. Need things to tighten up, vibrate a little faster, (breathing harder ensures plenty of oxygen exchange also). See, ole' Rob can solve your problems at a moments notice. I sure hope Underdog continues to further his knowledge base through this level of "higher education". Rob

I have the sneaking suspicion that he married the wrong girl. Rob

I'm too cheap to pay for cable tv so I don't see any of the shows commonly mentioned. The choice is easy for me, no cable = more Mack parts. Rob

Not tonight, he is facing snow in Kansas. Just got off the phone with him. Rob

Looks like a heavy spec brute doesn't it. Rob

Now Glenn, ya gotta know that I'm the one that goes to a gang bang screaming "ME LAST", "ME LAST"!! Rob