Rob

Very little thought given to cosmetic appeal with the base series for sure. The red Anthem I mentioned earlier with tasteful additions really is an eye catcher in a positive way.

Grow hair and lose about 240lbs.....

Wow, St. Louis still allows plywood fencing on jobsites? Haven't seen that in years. When they were building the Arch several years ago there was plywood fencing around the complete perimeter of the site, (a LOT of it too) with holes drilled through for viewing. That excavation was deep to a five and six year old boy at the time the lower work was going on.

Find out how to temporarily increase the positive camber and retain the caster angles along with toe in while in "track mode" along with very low profile wide base tires too. Stiffer shocks, and fat "sway" bars, (front and rear) will get you needing a five point harness to keep your ass planted in the seat. On short autocross tracks it's all in being able to get around the pylons in the least amount of time rather than your fastest top speed. I had a 1969 Datsun 2000 and it would stomp all over both my 1975 Datsun 260Z, and 1980 280Z cars. The Datsun 1600, and 2000 were the predecessors to the Z car and started Datsun on the performance segment. The 2000 did quite well in the slalom, and the autocross circuit, but I was amateur in all aspects driving the car(s) to the events where other's came on trailers and followed the circuit. Any of those three would best my 69 Camaro on the track however. In those days JC Penney allowed SCCA to set up in their parking lot and the track was just shy of .8 miles for a full start to finish. 45mph was fast but it was physically demanding to get through on equipment and drivers.

That was interesting and rewarding as I've done that in the past with a Volkswagen Scirocco in the late 1970's. Lot's of fun and as you found, one didn't need a lot of motor to race around parking lots. Used to bend that car so tight around pylons the inside rear tire would be almost 24" off the pavement but it stuck like glue and would not spin out. Eventually did put it on it's passenger side but it was rusty and parts used for another car. Jag sounds good.

I had an AD-4 on one of my Mid-Liners and the air dryer purged five times every cycle. Strangest thing in rapid succession, psss, psss, psss, psss, psss, and then stop. Turned out to be a hairline cracked brass compression fitting on the sense line at the dryer port. Finally found it with soapy water and variable pressure shop air plumbed into the drain port of the wet tank to test the complete system.

It may sound out of kilter but change the air filter element(s), and tighten all the clamps on the induction system replacing any compromised or worn rubber parts; especially the ones leading to the turbocharger inlet. Also need to pressure check the charge air cooler and have it cleaned if dirty internally. Some may ask why to these suggestions but there is a method to the madness and I like the bases covered.

My thoughts also; especially for that locale if run local as they use a lot of salt there from my understanding.

No worries. Glad to help. Be sure to post your results after the new install.

You are on the right track. That valve has probably been changed in Mack's parts system, (superseded) to the valve you now have. However, you have found a replacement that will take less work to install so that is the way I would go.

It would work but will take some adapting. I'd get a pressure washer after the area the existing valve is mounted into, remove the valve, and hit up a heavy truck parts store for an exact replacement without monkeying with it too much. That is just me however. You could mount the replacement you have and route the supply air, discharge air to the bags, and exhaust, then connect the rod that runs from the valve arm to the suspension and call it good too. Hard to believe a dealer would supply a valve that differed that much from the original if original installation. Maybe the truck valve has been changed to aftermarket in the past?

Yup. AMC was in dire straits during that timeframe till the Chrysler Corporation bought them up replacing the GM engine with the 4.0ltr "Jeep" engine. Funny thing about that engine was that it was a basic modification to the original 232 AMC engine from about 1963 with a different head and induction system through the years.

Going to do that on a CX next week. The HVAC unit just came in and an aluminum box is being fabricated to house the 3400W inverter/generator to run it.

Used to do that with K&N "Kopper-Koat" back in the 70's and it worked really well. Can't remember a leaker myself especially on engines that did not use a composition type head gasket.

Those numbers ring a bell for me. I have the upper set, (valve grinding) and lower set and all seals for a complete engine and four extra head gaskets for the same series. Those gasket sets were cheap in comparison to the custom made pistons and liners.....

I ordered four 865/866 head gaskets for shop spares from the Mack dealer I use a bit less than a year ago. They were still supported at that time as were the upper and lower gaskets for the engine. Not much luck in the aftermarket for any parts for them any longer however.

No worries Glenn, your input is always welcome and appreciated. I couldn't find any reference to 9/16" studs in my books either but my green "Motor's" manual, and TS-442 going back into the very early 1960's only mention the 5/8", and 3/4" studs in the heads. I've not had one of those engines down in eons either and since I've lost my marbles, I can't be counted on too well any longer.

That is about what the work trucks ran for the federal govt. purchase contracts too. Heavier light duty trucks, and options ran a bit more, but everything was power steering and air conditioning at minimums. Hard to get a manual transmission in anything any longer.

Funny thing, (to me) is they rust out just as quickly and the same as their so called "work truck" series costing 2/3rd less. I cannot justify the cost of a new pickup myself as the value just isn't there any longer.

I think I'd seen that truck at Tidewater Mack back in 86, or 87 while I was in the Navy. Either that or a "spitting image" as the color layout was the same. Did not get close to it but I think it was in for service. What caught my eye was the Dayton wheels on the front as most were "Budd" at the time. UPS was full of MH series at the time too.

Got it Mike. I'll get it looked at in a couple of days and send you some photos. PM me an email address as the site won't allow me to send photos over the PM section. Rob I need to get with ranchopper for some measurements on the original listing. One of my RL's needs a radiator although I had the weak original repaired. I'll be up in Wheaton within the next month and get a good look, or pick up then.

They want longer trailers in this country. Therefore COE's are a viable option to shorten the overall length and retain maneuverability. Kinda like what is old is new again. Of course once pride in being a driver, and operating profitability is reestablished, the industry will have some clout.

Be nice to see the R model cab assembly reproduced in aluminum and supplied to independent truck builders for fitment. I always liked that "driver's cab" layout except for the propensity to rust.

I've always used Lucas hub oil myself. Never had any problems with it.

I have a radiator from a 72 R-685 which did not leak when in service. I broke the truck down for parts and kept it but don't know the condition. I'll get a look and photos as I'll be coming to Lititz if its of interest.