Rob

I prefer to have my dinners cooked by natural sunlight. Of course raw is not that bad neither if the asphalt is cleaned out. Rob

I'll try but my feelings are hurt, (sob, sob), I really will try to be better. Rob

Thanks Glenn. Thinking about going with a little Detroit 3-53T engine in a small truck I've stumbled upon. Need something to play with that is different. Rob

Just make sure you stay between three and five pounds per square inch inflation pressure to acheive everlasting satisfaction. Rob

Well I'm gonna have to change my attitude. After all that work and effort, people just want to laugh at me....... Rob

Glenn: A Google search finds that input shaft number to fit an RT-8609 transmission. That is the only one I found. Thanks, Rob

Back in March of 1991 I was welding overhead with my right hand, with my gloved left hanging at my side. A welding slag ball went down the glove on my left hand and welded itself to my wedding ring burning it in two. As you can imagine this got to hurting on short order. I haven't worn a wedding ring that is metal since. I have the permanant depression of that ring in my finger. We dug the ring and charred skin out with a pair of tweezers, hurt pretty good it did. Rob

Well there Underdog, I just about feel like crying after reading your post about "Sweet Polly". First love and all. I too like the sound of a V8 Mack engine. Also like the inline Thermodynes also. I've never been a "trucker", just been around them a lot. Always preferred Mack because I'm unable to process much else. The three V8 Mack powered trucks that I have are all the old ENDT series two valve head engines. I'm sure something with four valve heads would leave me wondering what the other pair are doing there, so I'll leave it alone. First loves? I married mine, (Momma) when I was 17, I'm now 48 so it still seems it was the right thing to do. The Mack trucks are a hobby cause I have no others. Rob

Well, I got this one figgered out finally. The service manual that I have does not cover the actual air shift top cover that I have. It is very close, but the one I have has an extra set of "O" rings in the range selector section and the later production ones do not. These have to be looked for to find, as they are way down deep in the bore the piston slides though. Can't really believe that I've looked over it so many times. With the cover inverted on the bench, and all the air lines connected to a regulated 60psi pressure, soap bubbles readily revealed the leak when in the low range of the transmission selector. I'll have it back together tomorrow as I'm just about a fucking expert on this damn thing now. Rob

Hi Glenn, the input shaft number is 20788. It is on a pallet next to a RTO-12513 for size comparison. I've never seen this transmission work and was told it was a nine speed. I got the rolling chassis minus engine for the driveline and would like to use this trans for another project I'm thinking about. Thanks, Rob

Hi Glenn, it is on a pallet at the shop. This thing looks like a scaled down RT-910. The case is much smaller and uses a 1710 series driveline, (the reason I got it). It has "Eaton" cast into it also. I'll get the numbers from the shaft tonight and post them. The tag is non existant as the truck was a fertilizer spreader and everything steel and aluminum was corroded. One can see where the holes are that attached the tag as the drive rivets remnants are still in place but the tag is gone. Rob

I have this small Fuller nine speed that was originally behind either a 3208 Cat engine, or a 534 V8 gas in a 1982 L8000 "Louisville" Ford truck. There are no tags on the transmission and when the truck burnt from a carb backfire, the diesel was swapped in and I can't remember if the trans was changed or not. Both trucks were very similar except one was gas, the other diesel. How could one identify this trans as there is no tag on it anywhere. If it were an automobile trans, the vin number would be stamped into the case but no such number has been found. Thanks, Rob

Hi Glenn, it does not have an air shift pto. Thanks, Rob

My only experience with synthetic oil is in my Ford compact tractor. With synthetic oil it really spins over fast when it is cold. In fact does not need to be plugged in during the cold to start. It does have glow plugs and starts easy with a proper warm up. I don't mind the cost as I'll only do it once. Just have to ensure no leaks before the switchover. Don't want to add because of a leak. Rob

With the cover inverted and air applied, I can probably get a closer idea with the soap bubbles. Sure is frustrating cause it is not real easy to get to in the truck. Before the rebuild, I had no idea where the air was going cause everything was buried in grease/dirt, and access was not opened up. Rob

The seller made contact with me this evening and apologized for not padding the shipment and wants to pay to have it repaired. He says both mounting studs were secure when he shipped it but did not think it would have needed padding. I did tell him it usually costs about $35.00 but I would know later in the next week as to cost. Maybe this will work out after all. Rob

I'm not much of a mechanic so don't know why someone would only bore one sleeve bore, then not be able to tell, (by feel) the excessive clearance of using a standard sleeve. The sleeve would slide into the bore much too easily. Sure hope you get it back to where it needs to be. Rob

I have rebuilt the top cover to this Mack air shift transmission, (TRDL 107) three times and it still passes air into the transmission case. The rails measure good, (.0003 down in wear area) and are clean and smooth. All "O" rings are new on all sealing areas. The transmission works and shifts fine but the truck depletes all stored air within three minutes when the engine is shut down. Tonight I could hear air leakage with the engine shut down, center floor panel removed, and shop air applied to one of the wet tanks. Soap bubbles traced the leak coming from the transmission vent. When a single bolt that retains the top cover was removed with shop air applied, a real tornado was unleashed! Tomorrow, I plan to remove the top cover again, and place a regulated 60 psi to the air ports for the shift cylinders to find out which one is not sealing properly. There are no other air connections to the transmission itself so this should isolate the area. I was thinking of looking at a reman unit but cannot find what is wrong with this one. Strange thing as the shafts are not worn enough to cause any leakage with new sealing rings. Rob

Hi Glenn, I meant the top of the shifter forks where the stick end fits into. The area where all three shift forks are together at the top of the transmission that forms the gate for the shifter to slide through side to side. The stick is worn also and I can readily build that up, just don't know about the area that the stick contacts against to operate and slide the forks. They look like a forging to me so would readily take a weld. Rob

You could sell it and be happy? Rob

Seen that grille in Fire apparatus based on the "E" series chassis. Rob

I've got four Fuller transmissions now so it was a little less expensive to purchase the larger quantity. I don't remember the capacity of them off the top of my head but 22 pints each seems to ring a bell. That could be a Mack transmission though. On another note, I've got an RTO-12513 and the slots were the shift handle engages are worn significantly. The slots that are used most often are worn almost concave where my fresh rebuilt ones are perfectly flat. Can a guy weld these up and machine them back flat, or should they just be replaced? We used to build up the forks in cars and light trucks with brass, then bring them to the proper thickness but this was for the fork part themselves. Thanks, Rob

The emblem with the script "Mack" is an electroplated stamping from brass sheeting in the beginning process. The mounting studs are then placed into the pre punched holes in the webs, and a press flattens a ledge that retains the fastener. The webs are then folded over to make the mounting studs protrude through the grille shell when mounted. It is then ready for installation. The heat from the torch will relax the base metal and allow you to bend it with little effort. Just don't get it hot enough to melt. The chrome plating will probably discolor, but with new mounting studs installed, the part is worth replating. A new part is available, but expensive. Rob

Soften the metal with a torch using Mapp gas. The existing plating may be discolored a little bit, but the heat will relax the metal at the metalurgical level, enabling it to bend readily. Rob

I use Marvel air tool oil, have for years. Rob