Rob

You want public assistance? You provide service to the public. Working parties can be a good cost effective solution to get people off of the welfare roles. It doesn't take a whole hell of a lot of brains to clean up trash, paint walls and walkways, or many other services that could be performed by able bodies. This is my rendition of "Pay to play". Just is backwards from the state of Illinois. Rob

If it comes to that Mike, there is a definate possibility. I personally want to see the truck saved with it's current owner. Given the conditions, the soothing medicinal qualities of German Shephard Pie by candlelight are much more conducive to a sale should the need arise. Rob

I will check with a customer of mine that gets rims made for his fertilizer spreader trucks. Some of his older stuff has Dayton hubs. Hopefully I can relay to you tomorrow a source. Rob

I forgot, I'm not supposed to be so boisterous!! My apologies rendered!! Rob

Man that just blows. Having the incorrect head on there will not let it retain a seal for a good long time I would think. That liner appears to have a fire ring so you should be able to get replacement parts readily through federal-mogul possibly. At this point it may be prudent to look for a later model 237 for replacement as opposed to rebuilding your original. Rob

I know exactly what you mean there Underdog. I found your reply to the original post most informative for the novice, and answered the originating question quite effectively. Also agree there are a bunch of sick, twisted, half a bubble off level, demented bastards participating within this site. I think they have to be the most revolting bunch that I allow myself to interact with. I love each and every one of em too; right up my alley! Of course maybe I'm biased??? Rob

Hi James and happy birthday to you!! Hope you do something special on your day. Rob

And ready to pay handsome dividends in appreciation. Rob

It was the lid of a latrine barrel. Paccar has standing orders for millions of them. Rob

I'm not that smart. Rob

The cabs start to rust in this area for a couple of different reasons: The roof skin "flange" is spot welded to the drip rail all along the perimeter. As one knows you cannot weld through an insulator so this is usually bare carbon steel when the welding takes place. This produces a "sandwich" of sheet metal, (one layer on top of the other) and there are inherent voids between the spot welds. This is usually not adequately sealed on the inside of the cab and the condensation of a cold roof panel, coupled with a warm operators cabin produces condensation that accelerates the sheet metal corrosion. The seam sealer that is poured and worked into the gutter is to seal the outer flange area and bury the weld seam. It does nothing to protect from the inside where the corrosion starts. The best way to delay the onset of this degradation, (corrosion) is to seal the inside of the cab. Anything, new or old will benefit from this action. I use a product call "Rust Fire" that sprays on almost like a lubricant and litterally runs into cavities, and then solidifys into a wax effectively sealing the area from moisture intrusion. Although this not absolutely perfect, it works much better than nothing at all to counter the elements. It also smells like asphault for about three solid days so there is a delay to return the vehicle to service. The stuff also stay sticky for that same three days! As was mentioned, one could cut the drip rail off of the cab and fabricate some type of arrangement to retain the roof skin but it would either not look right, or function properly. Although a Mack cab does not gain major strength through the roof skin, there is a lot of vibration present and if not welded solid in some fashion, will crack. I like the four inch wide band type repair myself. I can just imagine how that would look. Rob

Can't go wrong by maintaining your means of support. My limited experience says that you spent a lot of money, (well spent I might add). Rob

You get what you pay for. Cheap price, cheap quality. Rob

I don't know how you would do that and retain the roof skin to the cab. The rain gutter has the verticle part that you see on the outside, then transitions to a flat surface, then again turns up a bit and is welded to inner cab structure. In the flat, or horizontal area, the roof skin is welded to. I have some NOS rain gutter, and roof skins for an R model cab at the shop and will post photos if there is any confusion. I've put a lot of them on through the years and not saying that a person couldn't fabricate somthing to work, but it would be a lot or work to look and function correctly. Rob

Just make sure the receptacle is clean. Rob

Yes you have. Now who you gonna kiss? Rob

Funny how this did not exist until ownership "across the pond" began to take it's toll. Rob

Here is my RL-755-LST. Think it's been awhile since I posted it here. The hood emblem is missing on the left side. My understanding is that this is the only truck of it's series in existance, with only three built of the type originally. Rob

I don't have an answer for that as they are before my time. My uncle drove one for Mclean freight and it was one of his favorite trucks many years ago. Rob

Hi Thad, the H-63's were a mid 50's produced truck. My uncle bought one a few days before Christmas. He also got a 1961 B-61 with a "box sleeper" he is hanging as a "carrot" out in front of me testing my resistance..... I can hardly wait to justify this one. Rob

I would like to have the single RL-700-L emblem as I'm only missing one. You can send me a pm with details. Appreciate it. Thanks, Rob

Will a RTO-12513 Mack bellhousing fit onto a RTO-9513 transmission? Thanks, Rob

Those caps were brand new and installed last Christmas day on a buddies truck. Unbelievable that Paccar would put their name on such garbage. Rob

ahhhhh, the secret to their longevity revealed at last. This is an actual photo. I did nothing to enhance it. Rob

That is a nice ride. Congratulations on the purchase. It will fit in with the others well. Rob