Rob

Your diagram appears to be for a negative ground system which I doubt you have. I will try to locate one for a positive ground system and post it for you tomorrow. As you can see from the diagram there are two discs inside of the switch. When the switch is not engaged to start truck, the batteries are in parallel. When engaged, the batteries are removed from a parallel condition and placed in series for the 24VDC starting voltage. The switch is shown engaged to start the truck in the diagram. Rob

Probably won't catch me giving wrong information on the web cause if I've not been there and done that, I don't present the information as a known fact. If I do participate, it is from experience, and confidence from a firm stance. Of course there is the art of "not getting caught" too..... Rob

I just may wear a "full face" helmet. There has been so much grinding, welding, and more grinding done to this truck that there will be a lot of grit shaking loose and flying about on the trip. Rob

It is possible the original switch was miswired and burnt up internally as a result. Then unknown to you, the new switch was wired as the original. I certainly hope this is not the case. I would look at the electrical print, and then follow the battery cables to ensure their correct routing. Rob

Hope you didn't fry the new switch internally. Rob

Yea, I guess we are. Fortunately, this is minor. I've got to re-roof one of my B61's when this truck is at the blaster also. We are going to weld a new rear frame section in tonight after work, then get it rolling again. The old frame was busted up pretty good from twisting. It sounds as if you are progressing a little. Glad to hear it. If you were still in the area I would stand back and supervise your efforts! Just kidding. I'd be right in there myself. Rob

Hi Bolt, I can't answer for loaders but at the airport that I'm based out of there are three loaders: One is a newer 928F Cat, a 644 John Deere, and a 444 John Deere. The Deere products have required much more maintenanance through their lifespan than most of the Caterpillar equipment. That is not saying it hasn't changed in recent times as I don't work on them. I just know that the Volvo salesman that went to Case told me that the Volvo excavators "needed improvement" without details. Why he left, I don't know. Rob

There is a Volvo construction equipment servicing dealer in E. Peoria. They are always busy. Wonder why?? They don't make near the excavator that Cat does from a durability standpoint. Shoud be profitable moving their machinery. Requires a lot of shop time. Rob

Hi Paul, I probably wouldn't have sold the truck anyways as it was purchased for the Detroit project solely when I discovered the 1693 truck would not fit the bill. Thanks for the consideration. It really is in much poorer condition than I was lead to believe prior to my purchase, but it is comming back. I did have a little "setback" in progress this morning. I was removing the seam sealer within the pinch weld of the roof skin to rain gutter at the rear of the cab, when "significant" rust was discovered. It had been "buried" during the repaint of the cab some time earlier. Some photos will be attached. I have a new OEM roof skin that was purchased and not used and I first thought of installing but, would rather save that for a cab roof that I'm removing a roof air unit, or repairing worse rust damage. This roof skin is salvagable in my opinion. All in all, a good four hours for the day. Rob

Glenn, the B61 model Mack truck will always hold a special place with me because it is what grandpa had for so many years. I agree the R700 takes second place as "The worlds best looking truck". As I've mentioned several times, this chassis is to receive my 12V-71 Detroit engine because it is the least "different", or rare truck that I own. The other two R700 series trucks are much more limited in availability as they are both RL700LST series, (Western built). One has the 1693TA engine and this truck is the sole remaining of only three built by Mack. The other is an RL797L and has an ENDT866 engine. Both of these trucks, (RL) will retain their original drivetrains. I've always been different in what I find appealing. Grandpa thought I was nuts when in high school I purchased a rusted 67 Olds Toronado as that wasn't the kind of car my generation wanted. He about "shit a gold brick" when he found out I was stuffing that engine and trans into the rear of a VW squareback! Most of the guys I ran with were all Chevy this, Ford that, etc. I was always into trucks, dozers, graders, and such. Never was one to "cruise the strip" as I never was one that fit in; Although I painted many of the cars that participated. I did have my 68 Barracuda, (still have it), and would not destroy it. Even though I was never really interested in mechanics, I did learn at an early age to keep my mouth shut, and ears open when someone was learning you something. To this day, I question the why's and what for's, and plan to till the end. The guy that lived across the street from us worked in his garage fixing/rebuilding wrecked Datsun cars, (1600, 1800, 2000, 240Z, 260Z) and I spent quite a bit of time over there. To the best of my knowlege, he never held another job. One famous saying he had that was always directed at me was "Get me a beer boy"! That of course was usually accompanied by "Sit down and shut up cause I gonna learn you somethin". This garage is where we built the Volkswagen. As you stated Glenn, "Give me an R700 and let me do what I want with it". I couldn't agree with that more. I've got to make the truck different or special, (however it is looked at) because it is being built for, and by myself. I'm not one that does this kind of thing to sale or try to profit from, but rather as a hobby; (my wife says I'm sick). I built my auto body business to help put my wife and kids through college, and work it as a second full time job for 15 years. It, and I did that, so the business was closed. It is now time to do something I enjoy which is work on my trucks. Once retired from the federal job, (Electronics T/S) I will probably look to enter this profession with employees. Now back to my progress for this day in another post: Rob

A little more progress this evening: I've still got to finish digging the sealer out of the rain gutter before the blasting. I will remove the hood, tanks, and air cleaner at the blasters' place. I did find rust in the roof area but it is very minor, in fact, most was buried under the sealer and has started from the inside of the cab. This will take some minor fabrication that will not be noticeable when finished. Got to have it out of here on Thursday so still a bit to finish up. Hopefully, it won't be a wet ride with no glass. And to think this started out to be a quick repaint. Rob

I was quoted $29.00 each in lots of 12 about a month ago. Stainless were about $20.00 more each. This was a "special buy" until they were gone. I'll check for you tomorrow, and report back. Barry can surely get them also. Rob

I don't really care for the Chinese, or Indian manufactured tires. This is based on not seeing too many round ones. Seen a lot of Korean produced tires that are very good if you stay with Hankook, Power King, Kumho or a few of the other common names. Rob

Hi Greg, a larger set of photos would do better justice to your truck. Rob

Guess I'm learning Glenn...... This afternoon I pulled the interior out and the surprises never end!! Remember when I said "I would have judged this cab unfit?" When the floormats/padding were pulled out, and the asphalt sound attenuator scraped up, the amount of stress cracking through the floor is amazing! One crack on the passenger side is nearly a foot in length! This in itself is a relatively easy fix for me but if one had to pay for the work from a working shop, the truck would be junked just from cracks. The good thing that I discovered is very little rust in the cab. The floor is galvanized, (1987 model year), the doors are not original to the truck and are very good. There is virtually no rust in the roof that is so common on this cab. I did take the air scoop off of the roof and it is ball of rust underneath that may blow through with sandblasting. I may use my donor 72 again for this part. I had only planned on a "quick repaint" for this truck but once I get going I can't stop! This truck is going to the blaster sometime this next week to get stripped clean. I have the cab bare stripped with the exception of the dashboard which I will leave installed. It is going to be driven without glass, doors, or anything except a driver's seat for 12 miles! I'll wear goggles for sure. It is amazing how much dirt, rust dust, and trash was under the mats in that truck. It must have been used off road such as dump truck work to be that dirty. Didn't have my camera at the shop today so no photos yet. Will snap some and post later in the week. Actually found out where the excess "slop" is in my auxillary shifter after pulling the floor access panel. The bushing at the front of the actuator rod is SHOTbut good! When the shifter was pulled out, the slider rod is loose also. I have rebuilt a spare that I have with new bushings, and seal, so will replace it tomorrow. As if I needed to, there are more of those damn "Scotch Locks" under the dash that I could see from the bottom. Will be sure to replace them correctly too. Don't want problems in the future. Rob

If I remember correctly most 10.00X20 tube type wheels were 7.25 inch in width. I would get wider spacers. Any truck tire shop will know and supply what you need. Rob

Hi Monty, I'm sure you could purchase them here is the USA, ship them to Oz, and still be under retail there. Thanks for the clarification as I was wondering how that price was obtained. Rob

Thanks Mike, I've found an N.O.S. one from my uncle and want to get the correct one. The truck had the newer style one on it that was more square. Rob

8.25 is the standard reccommended size for that tire but a 7.5 inch will work also. I don'k know how common the narrower rim is nowadays though. Rob

That assumption is correct. Rob

My truck was built in August, 1978 and I'm wondering which shifter style it would have been built with. The original owner cannot remember due to time passage. One type has the range and splitter in the same knob, the other has the pull up range selector. The transmission is an RTO12513. I'll try to post a couple of photos; Thanks to Herb for the interior photo and John from another site. Thanks, Rob

Just don't feed them chilli and drive shortly afterward. Rob

I've never seen them in gold myself. That was a "tongue in cheek" type of comment with no application of sense. I could not bring myself to ridicule someone that has not harmed, instigated, or initiated any negativity towards me first. They are astronomically overpriced as they are still readily available from most any Mack Trucks dealer at nearly the same price I paid. I do think that a set either brass, or gold plated would look nice if installed on a "purebred Mack" drivetrain equipt truck. I would leave the script letters chrome, along with the outer band for a nice contrasting touch. Rob

Man, I bought four new pair, (total of eight) of these a couple of years ago from a Mack dealer for $56.00 each pair. I can't imagine they have appreciated that much in that time. The black paint must be a protective shipping overlay for the solid gold base metal. Rob http://cgi.ebay.com/Mack-truck-Mirror-head...1QQcmdZViewItem

Maybe he has fallen in love with a new D-16 powered Volvo dump truck and is avoiding us????? Somehow, I don't think so. Rob