Rob

True friends are a good thing to have. Rob

Here ya go...... Skippy Australian and Skip are slang terms used within Australia for a person of Anglo ethnicity, derived from the television series Skippy the Bush Kangaroo.

But "Choosey Mothers, Choose JIF". Rob

Naw, I'm really not. I do ask a lot of questions to folks that have forgotten much more than I'll every know. Many are willing participants on this board. Rob

What would give you the inclination that I would partake in something like that???? Besides that, you were not here to defend yourself!! Rob

Never had one of those so I'll take it also........ Just think how many less headaches you will have in the upcomming years with my help!! Your aspirin bill will be cut by 3/4!! Rob

I would have a cover sewed for the cab of the truck, (form fitted) with strip magnets, and rope grommets along the lower edges. The sun is hard on everything. Items covered from direct exposure keeps things nice longer. Rob

Hi Joe, great to know he is getting by without problems. Of course I do not wish problems on anyone no matter what they drive. I've only got two acres at my place. I did have it zoned industrial to build my body shop and not be hassled by neighbors. Don't really bother anyone, and don't trash the outside with junk, so I'm left to be. Not a lot of room, but enough that I stay out of trouble till "Momma" discovers I've brought something else home! Rob

Quite possibly at a Cat Authorized repair facility with his Pete!! Rob

Just think of the stress relief on your lower back by lightening your wallet giving me that engine, and paying postage to air freight it it Chicago! In just a little over a week, you will "feel like a new man" due to that heavy burden being lifted from your shoulders. You know me; Just doing what I can to help one of my mates! Rob

Hi Grant, you should start by giving it to me and no longer being concerned with it. Actually just wrap it up well, or tarp and turn it over by hand every month or so. I've never had one stick by doing this and some of my engines has sat quite some time. If possible have it inside to avoid as much condensation as possible. Rob

I cannot give an honest answer as to tinting strutural adhesive. Most vendors have their own color scheme for a certain purpose to perform. Most of the stuff I use is either black, green, or golden color. Most of it stinks to "high heaven" also. Again, it depends on what you are wanting to glue together. I have found the gold color from SEM tends to shrink a bit and one can see the glue lines beneath paint. This comes and goes and I've yet to see the topcoat fail due to this shrinkage. As far as tinting epoxy: Do not try to use a urethane toner or tint as they are not compatible chemically. While both are chemically cured by the addition of a catalyst, (hardner) the chemical composition of both are different. Adding a urethane product to an epoxy will cause it to congeal, or jelly, then not cure correctly. Urethane undercoats that serve as a replacement for epoxy can safely be tinted with toners as the chemical composition of the two products are similar. Urethanes have surpassed the epoxies in the production body shops due to the speed of production. A urethane product can be topcoated in as little a 10 minutes, where most epoxies take upwards of an hour, (or longer) to purge entrained solvents. This speed comes at a significant increase in cost. My preference is epoxy as I'm no longer in a production atmosphere and I think it is a better product for the end user that is much more versatile, and applicator friendly. After your wheel is repaired to your satisfaction, sand smooth with 220 grit silicone carbide paper, (wet) and spray a single moderately wet coat of plastic adhesion promoter primer onto your repaired area(s). Let flash for about 10 minutes, then a single wet coat of primer/surfacer over any sanded areas. I prefer to use a urethane based, or polyester primer because it stays put when dry. Other primers such as lacquer based tend to shrink as they age. Finish sand after reaching correct contour with 600-800, (wet) and apply topcoat of choice. Most any topcoat, (except lacquer) will go over either mentioned primer. One thing I should mention is that if the complete wheel is primed, it is the applicators decision to use a finish coat of epoxy just before final topcoat, or not. If the complete wheel is not primed, epoxy must be used as a barrier to the plastic or the solvents in the topcoat will attack, and leach into the plastic. (This is not very favorable down the road) Be sure to use a plastic adhesion promoter. Do not skip this step!! Epoxy is a great barrier coat, and adhesion promoter for the topcoat. Be sure to apply the initial coat of epoxy very lightly, (you should be able to see through it's translucence to the bare substrate) to curtail solvent penetration to the substrate. After this intitial "tack coat" dries 10 minutes, apply a medium coat and let dry according to directions. A final note: Plastic adhesion promoter is only "open" for about 20 minutes. After this time, it must be reapplied. I spray the complete wheel as to ensure all epoxy is undercoated. Hope this helps. I've done several and don't really think about the steps much. It's just like fixxing a wrecked car; I just "get it done". Rob

Naw, just don't want someone to be unsatisfied in the future. Rob

Hi Garth, I've tried the epoxy in the early days myself. The epoxy based material does not "melt in, or knit" to the parent material like structural adhesive does. Eventually the failure is that the parent material again shrinks, and breaks the bond between it, and the epoxy material. Structual adhesive does form a much tighter, (cohesive) bond to the parent material. It can still break free but when it does, it takes a chunk from the parent material with it!! Then you get to do it all over again! Rob

I don't think I've ever seen the intake piping to an air compressor plumbed into the suction side, (low pressure) of a turbocharger. Seems the flow of air would be fighting itself in operation for the compressor. Rob

Hi George; I know exactly what you mean with the peeling and flaking of your wheel. Cracks in the Acetyl plastic these wheels are made from are not stable through the years hence the cracking at the rim, spokes, and center area(s). I've seen wheel cracks grow, (shrink) by .015 when cold, as opposed to hot. A method I have come up with to repair this damage is to use a ball type rotary cutter on a die grinder or Dremmel tool to open the bottom of the cracks up and leave a "trough" at the bottom near the steel core. This will allow your filler/repair material to have something to pull against and not simply fall out. After forming this "trough" in the plastic I then open the crack up on the sides with either 80 grit sandpaper, or a course file to reveal unexposed plastic and leave a rough edge for the repair material to adhere to. Clean everything up well using isopropyl alchohol and let dry. Denatured alchohol will work also but you have to wear gloves, and don't let it set on the plastic as it will desolve and melt. Use aluminum "duct tape" to form a "dam" around the crack(s), and place steering wheel with backside up onto a plastic covered bench. Press down on the tape to ensure a really tight seal to the edges of the crack. Punch a small hole into the tape on the backside of the wheel for your repair material to be injected/poured into. I use automotive plastic structual adhesive for the filler material as it really sets up strong and will bond to plastic well. It is a thick liquid that is injected with an applicator gun. Let the material set up for about 1/2 the time on the directions, and remove the tape. The repair material should be solid, (but soft) at this point as it is not fully cured. Remove your duct tape, and apply, (by hand) more filler material needed for minor imperfections remaining, and to bring the material higher than the surrounding damage. After curing overnight I then glass bead or sand mechanically the old flaking material from the wheel. From this point it is much the same a repairing and painting any plastic part. Use a plastic primer for this purpose followed by an epoxy primer, followed by topcoat. I've had good luck in the past and plan to do a couple more wheels I have this same way. Automotive structural adhesives are made to soften, or melt into the surrounding plastic to ensure good bond. They do work well when used correctly but takes some time to cure, and not warp the part. Use automotive paint for the finish and it will wear well. The wheel will still be old and subject to cracking at the same, and other places on it. It the truck is going to be outside, I would have a steering wheel cover sewed up by an upholstry shop to block solar radiation from the sun when the truck is not being driven. This will prolong the life substantially. This repair will take some time so don't cut corners or you will not be happy. I use both 3M, and SEM adhesives, and work one in the same. Most autopaint suppliers/vendors will loan you a gun if you purchase from them. The application guns and nozzels add up quick so a "one off" project would not be cost effective to purchase them for. Good luck! Rob

Ending up with "many" Mack Trucks is a common affliction around here. No shame in that as I have nine myself. I do have to watch and keep inventory of them as "Momma" tends to sell things if I go somewhere too long. Those DM's were heavy trucks, especially the 800 series. I don't know if there is a level of comfort to driving one of those, but they can't be beat, (except with a sledgehammer) when worked. The standard R models do not ride like a cloud either. Do you plan to go into business with these, or use them for hobby purposes? Rob

Note to Rob from self: Leave this one alone; Leave this one ALONE. Rob

Mark your cables accordingly along with the segments of the switch elements for correct reassembly and remove from the truck. There are two heavy beryillium copper discs that are the actual contact assemblys and they burn and pit with usage. Using a stainless steel brush, clean them up well and if not melted badly reinstall. Most of the discs can be "flipped over" to use the other side without a problem. The other contacts, (actually the studs for the battery cables) the discs mate with when pulled in, are not replaceable by themselves any longer as parts are the problem. I have a few of those switches around that have been problematic. I just replace the switch complete. I think they are about $125.00 mailorder wholesale. One of the biggest contributors to those switches failures is dirty, or corroded connections. I clean my thoroughly, then seal them with electical contact grease painted on with a brush. Good luck. Rob

Welcome! Great to have another truck with history to join us. Lots of folks available to help you along. Yes the truck would have been built with an ENDT675(237hp) "Maxidyne" series engine with a "Maxitorque" five speed transmission. This is according to the 685 series code in the trucks' model number. Should be a rather "unique" truck as there are not many "U" series left operating. In my area, there were a lot of "DM" series trucks, but most are gone now due to age. Glad to have you aboard. Rob

Great photos Barry. Glad your show was a success even with the persistant rain. One question that is unrelated; Since Volvo is the parent to Mack Trucks; Does the bulldog balloon still have his nuts, or has be been castrated also? Rob

Hi Van, sure is a nice truck with a good start for you. I remember photos of that truck from someplace, (maybe here). Always sad when one cannot finish a project. At least it was able to remain in the family. Rob

Showing my age here but I used to watch "Underdog" every morning before school! That's a great CB handle for your wife! I probably would not have thought of it myself not knowing your marital status at the time. Glad to be of service. My wife does not like trucks, or anything to do with them. That must be why I have so many to make up for the shortfall? Rob

Actually Tom, they are showing you their "backside" feeling shamed you drive a Pete. Fortunately, Bulldogs are tolerant of such misjudgements and the situation can be rectified. Now you know what to do for your own redemption but I must suggest; Do it expeditiously, time is of the essence. You must do the upmost to ensure your dogs' happiness as it is a given; A happy dog is a good dog. The continuance of driving a Pete will not help your cause. Rob

Steve: Post a photo cross section of the gasket/seal with a note depicting actual measurements. I can usually come up with generic material that will work. Rob