Rob

Thanks, I really don't know exactly what it was as I purchased it for the 1710 series driveline that was basically new, and long. Needed the shafting for my B-61 that is getting re-framed and lengthened. What ultimately did this truck in was a carb backfire setting everything ablaze. Thanks again, Rob

A guy was by the shop this evening looking at my V8 R-795 and said he had a freshly rebuilt Midland compressor for a Mack engine that I could have if it could be used. I've only been around Bendix compressors but the one on this Mack needs valve work I suspect. It is very slow to make air but does not pass oil. The air escapes back through the inlet port slightly also. Is there only a single Mack flange mounting for both the V8's, and inline engines or are they different? Is there plumbing differences to make the different compressor work? I don't want to take it off his hands if I can't use it. Thanks, Rob

"Big Uns"? Wasn't that the favorite reading material for Al Bundy, of Married, with Children? I do mean besides the newspaper in preparation of a "mans flush". Rob

Do keep in mind that the hood will fly open quite easily if the latches are left undone. I've seen several hoods damaged beyond reasonable repair from spring assist because the driver thought it was alright to move the truck a short distance without fastening the latches. When they pop open with a jab on the brakes, it is usually violent, and can be expensive. Rob

One thing I forgot to ask: This truck had a 534 V8 Ford engine with a small nine speed Fuller behind it. There are no tags as it rotted off. Any idea as to what series it may be? The trans is good, but much too small to put behind any real strong torque. Thanks, Rob

I dunno much about funny but most around here think I'm as fucked up as a soup sandwich! Rob

Not if you flip the image and read backards!! Rob

The bottom photo is a "spittin image" of my RL755LST with the Cat engine. Rob

Was I the only one that seen that seen you with an axe in my dreams? I must be some type of soothsayer! Rob

Know what I think?? Volvo is being sentimental with the successful names of the past with Mack and is going to build on that heritage with their new product line. Their future system of letters and numbers identifying their models reflect on the past with the name of "Remembrance". The new truck will be based on one of the most successful cabover designs of all times so will begin with the letter "F" model designation. Following the "F" will be a "U" series designation to denote the short hooded design that is reminiscent of the past models such as the "EHU" and such. Following the letter "U" will be a the letter "K" to annotate that the corporate structure of Volvo has the ability to effectively kill any history or pride of a company and/or product produced by something without their name upon it. Of course the new platform will have a Volvo engine, (without the phony MP series designation) so the engine alpha character will be another "U". Again, reflecting on the successes from the past with this new truck having such "heritage" built into it; The new truck will also receive the designation "II" in the nomenclature. It will once again be easy to decypher the model designation when it it viewed in it's entirety: The new Volvo "FUK-U-II" It is happening. The way to stop it is to not purchase their product. It's elementary math, no sales, no profit, no Volvo. Mack would be "spun off in short order" if sales were to fall. With the remaining big fleets and LTL carriers buying hundreds of copies at a time, Volvo posts millions in profits, and that is just what they want. In the future when the Mack branded truck becomes completely Volvo in every aspect, brand loyalty will suffer, market share will dwindle, profits will fall, and the company will be either shut down, or spun off again. That's business any way it is sliced. I don't see the brightest of "long term" futures for Mack Trucks Inc. I do however live in the past quite often. Rob

Ya done well. When you go to reinstall the "rebuilt cab" a lot of weight can be saved if the doors are not installed. I like to build empty cabs on the floor or dolly as it takes many, many trips up the steps to install the interior when the cab is on the frame. It is so much easier on the body, (mine) to not have to climb to install parts! Back when I was 150 pounds less, it didn't much matter as I had a much easier time just moving around. Rob

The most simple equation around my place is "Mack = Wogmar". This of course, is according to my wife. Rob

To build on Pauls' input: I would put it in the 1960-1965 time frame of build. It has the later style shutters, (eleven blades as opposed to thirteen), aluminum headlamp bezels, and plastic marker lamp lenses, (which could be replacements on this part). To the best of my knowledge, it will interchange from the smallest of the B series of truck to the B-6X series without problems. If the radiator is from an original gasoline powered unit, it will be smaller in core thickness than a diesel was. This appears to be from a diesel engine equipt truck, or tractor. Pauls' estimate of value is probably retail, "on target". You would need to find someone needing the parts rather than someone wanting a "spare" or as suggested a show display. My wife refers to that type of purchase as "WOGMAR". Shipping that unit complete would be very expensive and the older radiators need padded exceptionally well to prevent breakage in shipment due to age. "WOGMAR" stands for "waste of good money again, Robbie". Rob

Hi Glenn, I've never seen one of the high pressure setups for a Mack engine. My limited experience is from training manuals with little hands on experience. The term "spill port timing" is from one of the generator manuals and resident training from many moons ago. I do know that my Thermodyne engines are timed for 27 degrees port closing. This is in effect engine static timing as I recall. I can't say I've ever been around an electric Mack engine, or pump either. I've seen and played with many mechanical pumps through the years, but never actually calibrated one myself. Always been able to make an acceptable "trade for services" when I needed something done. Always liked business that was fair to both parties rather than swapping funds. Rob

I don't think you were lucky Grant. Your cab was lightened up by rust and lack of remaining steel! Air really is quite light in comparison to steel! LOL!!! Rob

I've got 10.00X22 bias on my A-40 without clearance issues. They are Budd hubs. Rob

Yes they will fit without clearance issues. The only thing is you may need to purchase wider spacers for the rear but they are readily available at any truck tire vendor used. Rob

As would I, FJH. High pressure test equipment need periodic recalibration to be accurate. Too much trust is placed into a tool without regard to it's accuracy many times. Example: How many mechanics send their torque wrenches in for calibration over it's life cycle? My eyeballs do not require outside calibration to see what is right and not. In this fuel example, if fuel is flowing from the missing delivery valve in the injection pump, and your timing pointer is indicating correct reference, something else needs adjusted. This is where the round cover on the timing cover and the bolts through the gear come into play! When the diesel fuel stops flowing at the instant the pointer is referenced to the correct marking on the harmonic balancer, the engine is in time. I would still send the pump and injectors into a shop for calibration together. The injectors will come back marked with which cylinder they are to be installed into, (usually). This is because each individual plunger and barrel inside the pump housing is adjustable for stoke output. As the plungers and barrels wear from usage, they deliver less output. This can be adjusted by loosening lockscrews holding the discharge adjustment. the barrel is then rotated and calibrated for a specific "pump shot" at a predetermined pressure within the adjustment range. What I'm saying here is that you know little about the pump you have now installed. It is not calibrated for the injection nozzels it is running. You stand a chance of burning, or washing the engine and neither is what you want to do! It is great you were able to determine the original pump was bad and that you had a spare part. If we can help further don't hesitate to ask. Rob

11X22.5 are very near the same size. You can get them in either radial or bias ply and both are tubeless type. 10X20 are readily available, but most are offshore produced and not very good quality, (my opinion). Rob

Today I cut up a 87 LN800 series Ford straight truck. There was no sheet metal or engine/trans, just a rolling frame and axles. The air brake rear axle is a Spicer with 5.13:1 ratio. The springs front and rear appear to be good. The truck was a fertilizer spreader so sheet metal was rotted badly. It also has power steering and the gear is good. If anyone could use something let me know within the next week. The hubs front and rear a Budd style with ball seat wheels. Thanks, Rob

There is usually just a pair of circuit protection "fuseblocks" in most motor vehicles. The underhood blocks are usually for the high current draw items like electric fans, window motors and such. That is why there are "Maxi" style fuses. They tend to be a "slo-blow" type of arrangement. It may be in your best interest to invest in an inexpensive inductive ammeter obtainable at most any parts store. These are not meant to be a permanent install. You just lay the trough on the backside onto the wire of the circuit you want to check with the circuit operating. The meter will give you a general idea of current draw in amperes. These are great because you don't have to break into the circuit. Rob

Determine the electrical load of the circuit before you up the protection via a larger fuse rating. I don't like electrical problems either but they have put food on the table for a good many years. Rob

The cabs that I have are bent because of the persons pulling them tried to keep their forks as close to the top as possible. If they would have used longer straps through the doorways there would have been a lot less compression force through the roof and drip rails. Of course they would have needed a lot more lifting height to clear the frame and transmission. That is the purpose of the spreader bar. One of the cabs was lifted off with a chain so you can imagine the damage to it! Rob

Man that is some nice "tig work" on that exhaust. I'm still teaching myself, but hope to be somewhere near that good. Rob

They may or may not interchange. I would be concerned about the spare pump as to why it is missing it's parts. The delivery valves are little check valves that keep the high pressure fuel in the lines to the injectors from bleeding off. If they are removed and the openings unplugged, the innards of the pump will be exposed and this is not a good thing. It sounds like you need to pull the pump and have it test run on a bench before going much further. If you do this, take the injection nozzels also so they can be run and calibrated together as a matched set. Rob