Rob

Hi Grant, I have three R cabs in the shop that have been changed. All are bent in the roof skin/drip rails attributed to lifting with a sling from a single lifting point. All cabs were fully dressed, (complete) when they were done, (not by me) and I get to repair them which is relatively easy and pays well. Rob On a side note: What type of voltages and frequency do you folks run down under?

Is this not referred to as "spill port timing" any longer? Rob

Hi Rob, there is more to it than just spring ratings. For instance the bearings, axle shaft sizes, housing structure etc... You can add a heavier spring pack, or more leaves, or larger capacity air bags in your case but you could possibly be outside of the designers safety factor or window with modifications. I believe the brackets that support the air bags are heavier duty on a 44,000# suspension rating than that of a 38,000# rating, (for example). Rob

Hi Grant, I've ordered a couple new pickel forks for the larger stuff I'm now working on. My large fork with 1.125 opening did not have enough of an opening to go around the lower taper and I did not know this until looking very close. Someone in the past must have really run the retention nuts down with a large impact wrench as the bottom of the retainer nut is "mushroomed out" and the normally flat part of the spindle steering arm in concaved in. I may have to build up the area the nut bears against using a hardened flat washer when the rod end finally separates. Appreciate all the help so far! Rob

A blown fuse is an indication, or result of a high current draw in the circuit it is protecting. There must be a problem in the circuitry that caused this result that needs addressed. Buy more than a single replacement until your troubleshooting reveals the reason for the blown fuse in the first place. Rob

You are correct Skip. Do not just place a sling through the door openings and hoist it up without a spreader bar. The roof and drip rails will buckle inward a bit from the weight if you do not use a spreader to keep the lifting force verticle. Rob

I was so upset by the thought of Mr. and Ms. Knobby going on holiday to Siberia without me that my cerebral cellulite started to quiver at an unacceptable frequency, (off of resonant tank) and that is when things get crazy for me. The world went blank and when I came to there was a plasma torch in my right hand cutting through the frame of a perfectly good Mack B-61! I tried, (really hard) to stop but could not. Some type of celestial force had taken me over! The part that I can't comprehend is the recurrance of the symptoms when I thought I was better. After awakening the second time; I was doing the same thing to the other side on the same truck! Now I'm lost and don't know what to do! By my own hand a perfectly good B-61 has been reduced to a heap of scrap in four manhours. Here are a few photos of the devastation. Think I'm gonna head for Gladys, Va to see about workin on a mixer next. Rob

I don't like being upset. Makes me do crazy things in the shop. Rob

Trent, you'll have to go back to the thread of "Hi from Australia". Rob

Man I sure hope they didn't jet off to Siberia without me. I was just getting my travel kit ready to go. Rob

I forgot in my post to check the injectors while they were out!! Rob

Turbocharger failure was a very large problem as I recall. Severe lead times on backorders due to the high failure rate. They are much newer than I am accustomed to or see, so really have no useful input. Rob

The pump will only slide into it's driving gear one way due to a keyway. As long as you don't turn the engine over when the pump is off, you will not have to adjust main engine timing. If the coupling has destroyed itself the engine will have to be timed after parts replacement of course but it really is not too difficult to do with a service manual. Should you not have a manual with the proceedure available to you, I can copy and send it to you. If you do the timing be sure to do a complete tune up including spill port timing, compression check with analysis, (there I go again!), run the overhead, and change fluids and filters. No sense once your in there to not do the job right! If you could have the engine or chassis strapped to a dynamometer to ensure she performs as engineered. Maintenance is cheap insurance in the long run. Rob

Hi there, I have done similar to your suggestion in the past and it usually works well on stuck items. I've used two hammers on frt end parts to automobiles and light trucks for years. Nothing gets bent from the force that way. I don't have anyone around the shop any longer and my wife was busy with other things so I had no help at the time. I really need to invest in some larger tools as I've never really "geared up" to work on these antiques until now. Had a friend that ran a small fleet of class 6, 7, and 8 trucks but we have parted company, (my choice) that had whatever I needed. If I can get my daughter to hold the second hammer tomorrow, I'll get them free. Thanks for your help. Rob

The large end of the taper is wider than the throat to my pickel fork. I'll have to get a larger one the first of the week as this is about par for the way things go for me. It is no wonder I couldn't break it free. I almost absolutely refuse to heat front end parts that will be reused so I'll wait for the correct tool. Thanks for the help! Rob

I sure agree Glenn. I've got 70X100 ft of floor space in my shop, no ceiling, a 27' peak, and the noise is LOUD with that truck at high idle. I do plan to put a "shorty" type of muffler under the cab also to tone it down a little bit. As you say at about 1800 steady rpm it would not be bad but above that, or asking for power it really gets loud. This is my daughters' truck and she has a heavy foot so to speak, (must be from her mothers side) so I need to have it comfortable to drive. Believe it or not she actually appreciates the sound of a well tuned diesel engine at work. Rob

Alright Tom, now ya done did it!! That comment about "straight stacks are a must" caused me to go into the shop, start six of my seven Macks, and the one Cat, and all was fine until I started the 57 B-61T, with an END-673 natural, straight pipe, and no muffler. This one hadn't been started since the water pump was rebuilt and cooling system not refilled in July of 05. Well after getting batteries installed, she fired right up and promptly ran out of fuel before stabilizing. I then got on the hand primer, gave it about 50 pumps, (or so) and fired her up running quite nicely. Then with 50 plus pounds of oil pressure, I decided to give her a little juice and man, what a sound that is, (something like playing tug-o-war with a bulldog). NOW IF I'M TALKING LOUD; IT'S BECAUSE I CAN'T EVEN HEAR MYSELF THINK!!! Gotta put a muffler on it. Gotta go for now as momma just finished up a lemon pie for me so time to eat! Can't let my leotard loosen up now could I? Rob

I don't know about a straight piped, natural aspirated 864 V8 there Tom. Probably wouldn't be able to hear a thing after a few miles with one of those! My 865 engine has no mufflers and sounds quite nice without objections from others. Definately have a sound of their own. Rob

Installed the new D-2 governor today. Off at about 120 after adjustment, on at about 105 thereabouts. Thanks, Rob

Hi Herb, I've got my pickel fork in there as far as it can go and it has not moved. I've not tried to hammer around the threads above the taper as I was wanting to keep from damaging the threads at this point. I do not have the replacements as I'm still in the research stage. Once they are out, we can get replacements. I've looked several places and not been able to locate a dimension chart that lists taper large end, small end, and length to go forward with. That is why I need to be a little easy right now. I'd never thought of trying a "mushroom" head bit in my air hammer. I'll do that yet tonight and let you know. Thanks, Rob

I'm trying to get the tie rods busted loose on my 64 B-61 and not having good success. I've almost beat the "impact spot" flat with an eight pound sledge trying to pop them loose. The axle is an FA-522 with female rod ends that are shot. I'm planning to get them out and go to male threaded ends and probably make the cross tube. What do you guys do to overcome this dilemma? I've not used heat, (yet) but I'm about to. It's hard enough to even get under the truck, (given my large size frame) let alone work there! If there is not a better reason, I'll have a female cup adapter turned to fit a port o power and put downward force onto the stud while I beat on the spot again. Thanks, Rob

The cable is probably busted in the housing requiring replacement. The age of the truck leads me to this area. They are getting expensive to replace as the electronics are more prevelant now. Pull the dash panel forward by removing the screws around the perimeter, take the knurled nut for the cable jacket free from the back of the speedometer. I then usually insert a smaller straight slot screwdriver into the square recess the cable end slides into and turn the speedomer gear. Look for deflection on the meter. If no deflection, turn the other way. Grab the square end of the cable protruding from the jacket and pull on it. It should not come out for there is a crimped end on the other end of the cable. If you cannot pull the cable from the jacket; Move the truck under it's own power with the dash loose just a few feet and look for rotation of the cable. I don't think it will move but if it does, the problem is in the speedometer head. If it doesn't move, take the jacket loose the the upper rear of the transmission, and try to spin it by hand. It should move really easy. If it doesn't rotate it is probably twisted and bound up broken in the jacket. You can try to pull the cable from the jacket and sometimes they readily remove, sometimes they don't. It should slip right out of the jacket with little effort. If the cable does come out be sure to oil it well with speedometer lube, (auto parts stores sell this) before putting it back together. Hopefully that cable is alright. Speedometers are available on ebay quite often and are usually priced less expensively than having an original repaired. Good luck. Rob

Always great to have "talent" participate in the forum(s). I've always been one that liked the V8's myself, (I currently have three) and will be sure to post a few questions myself. There is no replacement for experience, and a person willing to share their experience is an invaluable asset. We look forward to your participation and welcome to the site! Rob

Growing up in St. Louis the cars and trucks had to be safety inspected by the state yearly, and a St. Louis city sticker had to be purchased annually also. This was in the 60's so the practice has went on for a long time. Any way they can get money out of you. Rob

Ahh, yes. The orientation of the part in the photo is not how it is mounted onto the perimeter of the door aperture opening. I've never had to purchase one of those, always made them. I must say, "You're going after it right". Rob