Rob

Sounds a bit like the oil pressure relief opened for a spell for some reason. The oil pressure gauge transducer, (sending unit) is downstream and if this relief is acting only a portion of engine oil pressure is reaching this transducer. Why a sudden blockage in your engine or filters I cannot answer for but the filters getting hotter than normal is usually from the relief valve doing it's job. It is directly part of the oil pump and oil gets hot when oil is passed through this type valve. If the relief valve is not seated it could be passing a portion of engine oil right back into the oil pan instead of routing it through the engine which would give a low oil pressure indication. Regardless if you have changed the filters again and the oil pressure is consistently lower than normal, I would verify your oil pressure reading is correct with a known good mechanical gauge, or replace the sending unit wholesale. If the oil pressure still reads low, the oil pan probably needs to come off for oil pump work/replacement. This is a very limited diagnosis as there really isn't a lot of information presented and I'm not there. The "hot" oil filters are a pertinent factor however lending suspicion to the oil pump itself.

A cordless Milwaukee "Sawzall" and a four pound hammer will do the job quite well. Damage is relative to the operator's skill. If you care to post a bit more pertinent information someone may be along to offer tangible assistance.

It very well could be South County Concrete as I don't remember "Ready Mix" on the trucks. Too little to be for certain however as it's been the late 1960's to early 1970's. As mentioned almost every truck they had was a REO, and were white with blue frames and rims. Too long ago to remember if spokes or Budd hubs but very large front tires and "Rocket" mixers. All had the overhead water tanks as I recall.

$44.00 here plus stems if needed. I couldn't break an 8.25X15 LPT tire down with a hammer myself, so took it in and they charged me $22.00, (well earned) to dismount the junk tire. I had the rim blasted clean and mounted up new flaps, tubes, and tires myself. The other seven weren't too bad to work with, but that one was more manly than I.

Speaking of the trunion: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mack-Trunnion-Stand-Square-Bar-3-5-339-348/123802211776?epid=27027417267&hash=item1cd32fd5c0:g:SDAAAOSwsGpcI5Oq

Starting to see "Beelman" trucks in this area of late. All have been red so far which is all I've ever seen of their units.

Was by Dohrn's yard in Decatur, IL yesterday and there are two new ones there. Also passed one on the road.

Last summer I installed one of the multi piece Stengle Bros. pieces on a garbage, (rolloff) truck. If you can stand the price, it is the one to use citing what has been stated already. Not a hard job, but heavy.

Sure sorry to hear that as I know damned well how close they can become. Always favored German Shepard dogs ourselves and have had many through the years with saying final "good bye's" always being difficult.

I installed adjustable Sporlan TXV's and discharge side filtration into my systems when converting to R-134 and they work well. I did use new "York" style piston compressors. Did not change the coils as was able to adjust delta t adequately with the valve. I'm needing some faceplate parts namely the round discharge are diffusors, (vents) as mine are missing. These although produced by Red Dot, were not supplied as replacements through them or their dealers; only OEM Mack at the time. They are now discontinued. Was always going to make something but have yet to do it.....

Nice photos Ken, thanks for sharing. Political silliness killed off about 3/4 of the participation with the site as the basis went far askew from many's core interest. It too forced my departure, but I seen it coming on much earlier than the masses.

Let me know if they will sell to you direct. Neither Red Dot, nor Kysor would sell OEM supplied parts retail well into the early 2000's. If that has changed, I'm unaware.

You still see those on critical circuits in automobiles. Only places that are high current loads such as lighting or HVAC runs within engine compartments as example.

That system is vendored as OEM to Mack trucks and will be supported through Mack and not the manufacturer. Red Dot was/is an OEM supplier still and they don't sell OEM parts in their replacement parts channels.

You need to discount the weight off wheels thoughts. If there is no resistance to the tires turning, there will be no rise in hydraulic pressure to force them to turn. Hydraulic flow determines how fast you can turn the wheels, hydraulic pressure determines how much effort the system requires from the driver meaning higher pressure equals less driver input.

Yes on the pump for one gauge to test pump output. Usually about 1200-1500psi the system should be relieving internally. If pressure is not correct internal to the system there will not be enough hydraulic assist and greater effort from the driver will be required. No weight on the wheels should allow them to turn almost effortlessly. Near any service manual will have a power steering test setup included.

Could be a steering pump, or seals on the internal spool valve of the steering gear. Easy enough to plumb in a pressure gauge and relief valve setup to test the components.

If I didn't drive a Mack, it would probably be a mid 1970's 900A KW. I always liked those for some oddball reason. I know where one is which was originally 1693TA powered, but now has an NTC-400 Cummins in it. It is both extended hood, and cowl. I have a really good 1693TA for it should it become available.

Or say "Rampart".....

Something that new still has fuses?

Never did see too many of those with the 239 V6, (3.9ltr) engine around here in 4X4. There were plenty of V8 powered trucks however. Nice to see one not all eaten up as any around here are.

Sounds like the syncronizer is worn. There usually is an air filter, but on your truck I can't tell you where to look.

Seen that scenario maybe half a dozen times through the years and it's consistently been the ignition pickup module inside the distributor. Change both the pickup and the reluctor wheel, (part that looks like a gear mounted to the rotating shaft) and you have a good chance of success. Don't forget to slather on a coating of heat conducting grease to the bottom of the pickup module to help it cool itself. That is to repair it yourself. Other option is to purchase a reman distributor complete and simply install as all new bushings and reground shaft will be included. If going the reman route I would go with a Pertronix retrofit and kiss ignition problems goodby forever for just a few more dollars.

No needed. It was common in the late 1960's to early 1970's but thought requirements had changed in the passing years. Can't do that in Illinois but this state is communist controlled.

Think that is the first time in recent memory I've seen a truck run on the road with the front tires protruding the hood without rubber flares installed?