Rob

Hi Tom, the answer to your question is YES! In fact I have an Allison HT series transmission from an old Oshkosh airport crash truck. I've kinda slated that for my daughters' B-61 in the future though. She demands an automatic transmission, air conditioning, power windows, locks, cruise, etc...(keep this quiet). It is a divorced type transmission. I'm pretty sure it would handle the torque as it was powered by my D343 from the Oshkosh. I'm going to try my RTO-12513 and see if it does alright. I don't plan to be hard on it and certainly won't work it as it was designed so hopefully it won't destroy itself. Rob

Well sorry to report that I've regained some weight. Seems I can't let go of the morning breakfast of eight glazed rounds, and four glazed twists (washed down with half and half and 1/2 pot of coffee) down at the cop shop with the guys. I'm currently residing right at 325 pounds, (again). This is a real negative offset to my prior progress. My wife whom is a bit taller than I at 5'4'', is now just under 100 pounds lighter than me. Our counselor had the nerve to suggest that we cut our calorie intake in half, (like she knows what she is talking about). I asked just how I was supposed to do that and she disgustingly threw her arms into the air and left the room. I told her that a "stiff breeze" would probably blow her into the next county. This from a person whom is thin as a toothpick! I have a word of advice for you folks. Don't buy Sealy mattress products. My dear mother in law purchased a new king size set for us, (top of the line) with a lifetime warranty during the holidays last year and we are on our second warranty replacement as of this date. The bedding store states they can no longer "afford" to offer a warranty on these bedding products and that if this set fails, they will refund the money paid. They even had the gaul to suggest that their bedding products were not designed to support 500 pounds dead center but rather more widely spaced! I countered with a mattress should not remain compressed with no weight applied by almost nine inches when the person(s) get up in the morning! I know what you're probably thinking by this time. "These people need a waterbed". Well, we tried that once, a long time ago. I was crawling into bed beside my wife for a little "affection" and upon rolling over onto my elbow for some "topside" action, the mattress burst ruining the whole experience. All we could think of was "Gol-l-l-l-y, what a mess"! 2.5 inches of lakewater all over the bedroom of our trailer house at the time. This ultimately ruined the carpet and pressboard floor from rot, and swelling. There was water running down the sides of the lower skirting of the trailer that froze almost instantly as it was February as I remember. The water even ruined my favorite pair of undershorts with the big red hearts that my wife got me for St. Valentines day! I didn't know they were under the bed as I thought they had been put in the hamper. Well got to close for now. Momma has darn near got the hot dogs ready for breakfast; Only get them on Sunday morning anymore but they have always been my favorite. I did post a photo for those that don't know me in my profile. The photo is poor and taken from my enrollment in the second Weight Watchers program we attempted. It was found to be a waste of time as those people want you to STARVE! Now that I've broken my silence, you guys need to post photos of yourselves. I'm sure you've got nothing to hide as I don't. Be sure to post only your "best" photo. Rob

Mike, the reason is called "flat spotting". Older, bias tires whether nylon, rayon, or any of the materials used in that type of tire construction tend to flatten out on the underside that supports the weight of the truck for a period of time. Newer tires with radial ply construction still do this, but to a much lesser degree due to flexibility in design. Older tires of the bias construction will attempt to "round out" when used, but are never as smooth as the newer radial ply tires. One thing to note is that radial tires have more woller or squiggle when driven that some drivers took a while to get used to. There is much more flex in the sidewall and this is the leading factor. One does get used to them quickly and no truck that I know of is factory equipt with bias ply tires when sold new in this country. In fact, most if not all US manufactures of tires no longer offer new bias ply truck tires in their product lines. They can be bought, but will be produced overseas and sold in this country under a few different names. Rob

Mike, you will get a smoother, more consistent, comfortable ride with radial ply construction tires as opposed to Nylon, or bias tires. I try to run all radial tires on the truck but at a minimum, I run radials on the steer axle. Never had any problems doing this although most will say one should not. Truck tires are expensive no doubt. You don't have to go with the highest dollar set for the truck, but inexpensive Chinese junk, (Yang Foo, Double Happiness, etc..) is certainly not the best way to go either. I tend to look to spend about $300.00 per tire, (11R-22.5 size) for an easily recognizeable brand to be in the middle of the road. For a hobby truck, don't rule out purchasing a set of used tires. Rob

That's great Randy. Don't think you'll go far with that passenger side fuel tank though! You tube videos are always poor and without sound for me, but I didn't notice any smoke so I assume the truck runs well? Have fun with it. Rob

I completely missed the part where you mentioned it was a Cummins engine. Off the top of my head I thought the engine was an END510, with Lanova combustion chambers. I agree with Glenn's suggestion as the overheads did need run quite often on the older Cummins engines. Rob

You probably need to get it much hotter than it has seen in years. Can you drive with the brakes lightly dragging for short periods of time? I "hitched" my Mack tractor that had not seen a load in several years to a large field harrow and dragged it around a field for over an hour and it worked wonders on the engine. It did crack the radiator though! I think your problem is related to the fuel and probably not mechanical that won't sef correct with working the engine. Rob

Hi there, never been around an R model that had air start so I'm certainly no authority there. Only two of my R models are 12 volt start. The other is 12 volt electrics, but 24 volt starter like B models. All of the trucks have battery boxes on both sides and use four batteries in total. Rob

It is only 852 c.i.d. so not much smaller than an NTC Cummins. Don't really know what the Cummins engines of that era were rated for as I've never been around them much. I do know the Cummins, and Cat engines were not nearly as smooth running as this thing is. This engine probably would not vibrate a glass of water off the top of the blower housings. Rob

A compression check of the engine is in order. A lot can be learned from this as to overall condition of engine. Rob

You are probably correct there Trent. There were a few LT's produced that did have the H-S engines as I recall. Must be fatigue as I did not even think of them. I know better. There would be quite some value in an original LTL w/H-S power I'm sure. Supposedly, there is about 1600 or some ft. pounds of torque in my engine set up the way it is currently @ 1650rpm. I may have the governor adjusted little different to up that a little but don't have near a transmission that would take full load. I will probably find something that will handle all I can give it but since this will only be a "play truck", it is not that large of concern right now. Shop floor space is becoming a premium and I need to move some stuff to make room. Rob

Hi Grant, most R model Mack trucks had batteries on both sides of the trucks. A total of four usually. Rob

Let me do some research for you Grant. How much of a hurry are you in? Have friends sending sawmill equipment to OZ later in the year and parts could "hitch a ride" in the container. I'll try to find out more information as to port etc. I'm sure the guys that purchased the mill would have no problem mailing the parts to you once there. I purchased a couple of new OEM roof skins and have had the gutters made for much less money than you mention, (even after the conversion). Rob

G' Day Mate! I would not be any type of authority on the Hall-Scott engines at all. Never laid eyes on one that is in a truck but have seen them in boats, and static displays. The LTL truck you mention: Is this a "Louisville" Ford type truck? I don't think the HS engines were around when they came out, but am not really sure. Rob

Hi Grant, we do not have any itinerary scheduled as of yet. I really don't know the geography of the country but we are open to any discussion. As the time draws nearer, we will get into specific details. I'm not against renting an automobile and flying from state to state but really don't mind driving either. Whenever we go someplace, I always do the driving extensively. Thanks, Rob

Hi Grant, what I'm actually evaluating is staying three days in each area, and traveling the balance from point to point. We won't really have a schedule to adhere to, but want to take as much in as possible. Rob

Hi Herb, never had a load on this truck, (tractor) other than the one semi trailer and that was on flat roads but I can see that being a delimma. Ever seen one start to slip only under power through a turn while loaded to the point the truck stops? Rob

Well, as some or most of you know I have this here 12V-71T engine sitting on my shop floor without a home. Tonight I took the first steps at getting it ready for installation into a truck. I will start the story from the beginning: First off, this engine had been part of my workload, (standby power generation) at the federal job for the past 21 years. This engine, along with several others, has always had good maintenance practices, (by myself) with the oil changed bi-annually, or every 200 running hours. Along with oil changes, coolant is changed also. In February 2005, the decision was made to replace this engine due to age and importance to air traffic control operations in this area, and a contract was let out for replacement/upgrade. This replacement was performed in early July, 2006. I elected to retain this engine for my personal use for future installation into a truck, circumventing the disposal process, (legally). As this is an industrial engine rated for standby power generation and set to operate at one of two speeds, 0 rpm, or 1800rpm, I would need a new governor assembly, governor housing for the front blower, flywheel housing, flywheel etc. to facilitate fitment into a truck chassis. I discovered it much less expensive to purchase a complete engine with a limiting speed governor, and an S.A.E. #1 flywheel housing with all ancillary items as opposed to purchasing separate parts individually. With ebay to the rescue, I purchased a good running 8V-71 engine from an IH firetruck, (supposedly) and worked with several members of this board to get it to my shop. Now that I had most things that would be needed, I did not have a chassis to support the endeavor, so off to the next chapter. In mid September 2006, a good friend and fellow member of this board calls me and states that a guy wants to sell an RL-700 series Mack tractor as he is keeping the engine for another project. This is just the ticket that I'm looking for. Upon reaching an agreement for the balance, and agreeing to pulling the engine at my shop we set out to Paducah, KY to retrieve the tractor. It is a little "rougher" than I was lead to believe, but still a nice unit. We proceed to drive this tractor almost 400 miles to my shop on a "wing and a prayer" as this truck had not even seen asphalt for 12 years! Best part of the deal was the seller had filled both tanks plum full, then discovered the clutch was so bad he couldn't pull a trailer, so he parked and forgot all about it. Anyways, after driving this truck without license, inspection, and only 1/2 the lights working, with intermittent/no windshield wipers in the rain, we arrived at my shop in the wee hours of the morning. Casually looking into the tanks to approximate usage, we discover the fuel is very, very red! This by itself is an instant $500.00 fine before they, (cops) even start to screw with you. The truck was thought to be "different" in the fact that it has a 1693TA Caterpillar engine as built from the factory. I knew this had to be a limited production truck as I had never seen, or heard of one prior. My wife, (whom is an accountant at Caterpillar corporate) looked into some of the "files" from the era that the engine was built via serial number and production date stamping(s). What she discovered was that Caterpillar only filled orders for four 1693TA engines for Mack Trucks Inc. A call to the Mack museum, (Mr. Snowy Doe, r.i.p.) confirmed this to be a rare truck alright with only three being produced. I quickly renegotiated to acquire the balance of the truck complete! This RL series truck was only considered for the installation of the Detroit engine and now that was out of the question. I looked around and eventually purchased an R-795 truck that is my current avatar. This is a "common" truck with nothing really special about it. After rebuilding the governor assembly, and fuel injectors, it really runs well. I had decided to keep the ENDT-865B engine as it was so again the Detroit project had no plans, or home. Another year passes by and another deal I couldn't resist on a nice "Western" RL series tractor comes along, so I purchase it also. This is of course to do something with, but what, I don't know. At this point I"m starting the hear the "sweet voice" of my soul mate whom is not very pleased with my latest acquisition, (maybe I should take up fishing, golf, etc...??) ask "What do you need more of that Mack Junk for?" Now this left me in the middle of the floor "babbling -n- shit" without a single intelligeble word to say; I take solace in that she knew I was MAD, and left my "Paradise". This second RL series tractor is really nothing out of the ordinary, but does have an ENDT-866 engine with some mechanical problems. Neither the prior owner, nor myself have gotten into it for a proper diagnosis as of yet. Being an aluminum straight frame rail truck, I don't know if the Detroit would fit into the chassis satisfactorily or not, so this was not evaluated. The tractor being a lightweight, just may be a nice "daily driver". I do have a spare engine like it in the shop. I have therefore arrived at the subject of this long winded post. Tonight I had both Detroit engines picked up by a "well qualified" mechanic to begin the conversion of the 12V-71T engine to automotive use. He is also going to install the 8V-71 engine onto the alternator to be sold at a later date. The R-795 is the participant and even though it runs quite well, is the best candidate to experiment with on this installation. I needed to do this quick before I had a chance to think! Currently the engine is set to 585hp at 1800 rpm and I have larger injectors if needed. Also have an RTO-12513 transmission that has not been installed since complete, professional, overhaul to go behind it. Should prove to be an interested project or "fun truck". It was very hot today with matching humidity. I sat at the computer "cooling down" and thought I would type a bit to let you know what I'm up to in the "off time". I don't really get to work with my own stuff too often and am trying to change that. Still strange to consider working with something other than Mack. If the story is interesting, great! If boring, my apologies are rendered. Rob

You are correct Glenn. I crawled under four trucks this evening to look at them. The 64 B-61 is the only one that uses a double disc clutch. I have never worked with, or adjusted it. All is dry so there is a lot of "dust and rust" in the flywheel housing. It looks physically different from the others and also has a countershaft clutch brake. It seems to work alright. One thing I did notice this evening on this truck is the bushings are shot where the arm travels through the rear spring hanger of the front spring. I could push the shaft all around at least 1/2 inch! The clutch works very well in the truck despite this. Thanks, Rob

Tonight I strapped on my elephant harness to my body and pulled the old Mack chassis from the weeds. For Knobby: (This added weight gives me more "tractive effort"). This truck is on Budd hubs front and rear, has hydraulic power steering, and a useable full double frame without breakage. There is no engine and/or transmission, nor useable sheet metal. I was looking at the drop in carriers for the drive axles and the castings and housings are different than any I've seen before. The bolt pattern, and number of bolts that hold the carriers to the housings are less. I took photos but cannot post them until later. The reason for this post is that the cast steel backing plates where the roto chambers mount are broken on three wheels and have been welded back together. They are not straight, or in line with where they used to be. These are at least 44000# suspension rears. I have a 64 B-61ST that has what appear to be the same type setup with minor differences, mainly the grease zerks that I can readily see. The front axle housing on this truck is cracked at the spring perch and has been scabbed, (terribly) together and leaks rather well. Will the backing plates swap over? The leaking housing has 6.34 rears, and the other housing has 5.77 which would be a little faster for this truck. A neglible difference I know, but I suspect the 6.34 in front to have the beginnings of problems. Thanks, Rob

Didn't the "L", (lightend components) engines use a single disc, push style clutch assy? All that I've seen have been this way. Both of my B models that have dual disc clutches have iron flywheel housings, and are pull style clutches, (I think). Rob

I assume you have fold over ramps that lay on the dovetail? I don't care for those because of the limitations you mention. I've chained mine so the point straight out the back almost parallel to the ground to provided clearance. If you do something like that, don't rely solely on the clevis hooks of the chains for support. Bolt you chain links together so the don't come apart at an inopportune time. Rob

Thanks Rod, I will in the near future start the research into this "venture". I've pretty much got the NZ part locked down. A dear friend of mines' wife is actually from NZ and they visit every other year. We will travel with them and stay together during their duration traveling the country. Upon their departure back to the states, my party will depart for Australia for another four to six weeks sightseeing and visiting. As far as going back? I dunno. I'm ready for a change. Don't really owe anybody anything. Kids are grown and gone. Don't even have grandkids yet. My new "younguns" have a bulldog on the hood, it would be really expensive to import my trucks there I'm sure. How does one negotiate traffic there in a left hand steer vehicle? Is that anywhere near common? Rob

Be REAL careful doing that Squid. Ensure you have at least 80 psi in the trailer tires. I've seen many single tire tandem axle trailer tires broken loose from the rim at the bead during a sharp turn. This is of course due to overloading, and you are right at that limit. I've always carried mine engine forward, and about 60% of the weight on the pulling unit by backing the truck as far as possible on the trailer deck. Good luck, Rob